DIY repair instructions for the VAZ 2107 5 mortar gearbox

The design of the gearbox of classic domestic cars suffers from low reliability and inability to withstand high loads. Repairing a VAZ 2107 5-speed gearbox is a rather complex procedure that requires a responsible approach and extensive experience. However, if you know the procedure and are technically trained, you can perform the maintenance yourself. As a rule, cars begin to have problems with the inclusion/deceleration of speeds and the loosening of the rocker. With such symptoms, surgical intervention in the structure will be required.

Signs and causes of box malfunctions

Among the most popular reasons for visiting a service station are:

  • the appearance of specific noise while driving;
  • extraneous sounds during acceleration;
  • one or more gears do not engage, it is knocked out.

The symptoms are a clear sign of wear on the gears and synchronizers. Mechanics are often cited as the cause of the breakdown.

  1. Overly aggressive driving. Stock transmissions are not designed for such driving conditions. Acceleration before the cutoff, too high a pace of movement on dirt or low-quality asphalt roads.
  2. Natural wear and tear. Some cars are equipped with a frankly weak transmission. Such devices rarely survive the 200,000 kilometer mark.
  3. Mechanical damage. Impacts against stones and curbs can damage the crankcase of the device, which causes lubricant leaks and dry operation.
  4. Using low-quality oil or neglecting to service the device. If you pour a surrogate lubricant into the gearbox, the reaction can be unpredictable. Similarly, the mechanism responds to the lack of replacement of the working fluid.

When and how often should a gearbox be repaired?

The manufacturer does not set a strict time frame for repairing the device. The only recommendation is a scheduled oil change.

The company recommends changing the fluid after 2,000 kilometers for the first time and after 60,000 kilometers for the second time. Further maintenance is limited to maintenance every 20,000-30,000.

Box faults

There are several types of symptoms of breakdown or wear of the VAZ 2107 gearbox.

  1. Lack of response to the inclusion of a position.
  2. The speed takes off at full speed.
  3. Increased noise, howling or grinding coming from inside the mechanism.
  4. The gears are stuck in tightly.
  5. Oil leaked.

The transmission does not start

The reason for the lack of an adequate response to the driver’s manipulations is:

  • wear of gears and gears;
  • abrasion of synchronizer bushings;
  • mechanical damage to the guide bushings;
  • synchronizer spring wear.

Knocks out gear when driving

The next trouble is the gearshift lever clicking out immediately after engaging the gear.

The reasons are:

  • the lever joint is jammed;
  • physical breakdown of the direct lever - the part is changed;
  • the shift forks in the gearbox are bent;
  • The clutch is not working properly.

Crunching and grinding in the box while driving

The following breakdown is caused by the following factors:

  • wear of bearings on shafts;
  • gear splines are worn out, parts are replaced;

  • There is not enough oil in the crankcase of the device, it is recommended to add lubricant.

Increased noise

The consequence of the following problems is increased noise emission.

  1. Lack of lubrication in the gearbox housing. The mechanism runs dry, which provokes the appearance of extraneous sounds.
  2. The fluid hasn't been changed for too long. After the lubricant wears out, a large amount of thick ointment consisting of soot, acids, and metal shavings forms inside the mechanism. The mass clogs the channels and oil starvation occurs.
  3. Wear of gear teeth and bearings.

Difficult gear shifting

In this case, you will need to check the clutch - the device may not work correctly. Damage to the basket or disk is also relevant. Separately, the cause may be pouring an excessively thick lubricant or a malfunction of the synchronizer.

Oil leak

Lubricant leakage can be caused by factors.

  1. Mechanical damage to the crankcase when it hits or hits another surface.
  2. Wear of oil seals and seals caused by natural aging of rubber.
  3. Overflow of liquid and, as a result, its displacement from the mechanism.

Repair of gearbox (5-speed) on VAZ 2107

  • Disconnect the speedometer drive. Repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox
    Before starting work, you should thoroughly clean the outer surface of the gearbox and wash it with kerosene.

    Important: before repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox, it is necessary to drain the transmission oil from it. It's easier to do this before removing it from the car.

    Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

  • Unscrew and remove the cross member securing the gearbox.
  • Remove the speedometer drive.
  • Remove the reverse lamp switch.
  • Remove the cuff from the ball joint of the gearshift lever.
  • Unscrew the nuts securing the gearshift lever housing cover to the rear wall of the crankcase.
  • Remove the housing and gasket from the studs.
  • Unscrew the nuts securing the gas exhaust pipe.
  • Remove the mounting bracket and remove the mounting bolt.
  • Unscrew the 5 nuts of the gearbox rear cover with a 13mm wrench.
  • Unscrew the 10 nuts of the bottom cover with a 10mm wrench.
  • Remove the cover along with the gasket.
  • Unscrew another rear cover nut.
  • Press in the 1st and 2nd gear rods using a screwdriver.
  • Tapping the rear cover, remove it from the gearbox along with the gasket.
  • Remove the plug for the reverse gear and 5th gear block (repairing the 5th gear of a VAZ 2107 often involves replacing worn gears or bearings).
  • Remove 5th gear and reverse gear.
  • Place the rear cover on wooden blocks and press out the 5th gear block bearing.
  • Remove the sealing gasket.
  • Press the oil seal out of the front gearbox cover and remove it with pliers (if it needs to be replaced).
  • Remove the spring ring from the gearbox shaft.
  • Unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing and remove it along with the washers.
  • Unscrew the gear bolt
  • Move the 5th gear fork and remove the gear block.
  • Clamp the gear block in a vice.
  • Remove the secondary shaft washer.
  • Unscrew the cover bolts and remove the cover together with the gasket.
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    • Remove the springs and fixing rods from the crankcase holes.
    • Remove the retaining balls using a rubber bulb (by creating low pressure in it).
    • Remove the 5th gear and synchronizer from the output shaft.
    • Remove the ring.
    • Remove the 5th gear clutch by sliding the shift fork.
    • Remove the reverse idler gear from the axle.
    • Remove the reverse and 5th gear shift rod, shift fork and rod bushing.
    • Unscrew the bolt securing the rod.
    • Pull out the locking pin.
    • Release the locking ring associated with 5th gear.
    • Remove the hub, spring washer, gear and reverse bearing from the shaft.
    • Remove the front intermediate shaft bearing.
    • remove the intermediate shaft.
    • Remove the rear bearing ring part.
    • Unscrew the bolt securing the 3-4 gear fork to the rod.
    • Remove the 3-4 gear rod and fork.
    • Pull out the locking pin.
    • Unscrew the fastenings of the 1-2 gear fork.
    • Remove the rod and fork of 1-2 gears.
    • Unscrew the screws securing the secondary shaft bearing plate using an impact screwdriver.
    • Pull the bearing out of the crankcase.
    • Remove the input shaft.
    • Remove the roller bearing from the shaft.
    • Pry off the retaining ring of the secondary shaft intermediate bearing and remove the bearing.
    • Remove the secondary shaft.
    • Unscrew the nut and remove the reverse axle.
    • Remove the 3-4 gear synchronizer and the hub shaft spring washer from the shaft.
    • Remove the stabilizer clutch hub and 3rd gear.
    • Press the secondary shaft out of the gear.
    • Remove the shaft gear bushing and remove the gear and 1st gear synchronizer.
    • Remove the 1st-2nd gear clutch hub and the synchronizer clutch.
    • Remove the 2nd gear and bearing race.
    • Remove the Belleville washer.
    • Press the secondary shaft out of the bearing race.
    • Pull out the retaining ring and 4th gear spring.
    • Continue repairing the VAZ 2107 gearbox (5 mortar), disassembling other gears.
    • Replace all worn parts with new ones.
    • Reassemble the gearbox by performing the steps in reverse order.

    Disassembling the box

    Box assembly

    Signs of gearbox failure are increased noise during vehicle operation, difficult gear shifting, oil leakage, and spontaneous gear disengagement. If at least one malfunction occurs, the VAZ-2107 gearbox is repaired.

    Removing the manual transmission

    In any case, in order to repair the VAZ-2107 gearbox, you will need to remove it from the car. And in order to do this, you need to drive the car onto an inspection hole or overpass.

    The first step is to remove the rod from the gear shift lever. After this, you need to use a screwdriver to unscrew the screws of the cover that covers the hole in the floor of the car body. At this point, the work inside the cabin is completed; all subsequent removal steps are carried out from below the car.

    While under the car you need to:

    1. Remove the exhaust pipe;
    2. Then the starter is unscrewed and removed from the flywheel housing;
    3. The driveshaft is disconnected from the gearbox.

    To make it easier to remove the box, you need to disconnect the cross member of the rear engine mount and the speedometer drive cable.

    Next, the clutch hydraulic cylinder is disconnected from the gearbox. It is important that when disconnecting the cylinder, you do not accidentally remove the hydraulic hose from it.

    After this, you need to unscrew the bolts that secure the clutch housing cover (10 wrench). Next, they begin to directly remove the box, and since its weight is significant, you need to install a reliable support under it.

    Then, using a socket wrench, unscrew the bolts that secure the clutch housing to the engine. Now, in order to remove the box, you need to carefully move it back, gradually removing the input shaft from the hub of the clutch driven disc.

    This must be done carefully to prevent the driven disk from moving, otherwise it will be difficult to install the box in place. In principle, the removal work has been completed, and the VAZ-2107 gearbox can be repaired.

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    Disassembling the box

    Increased noise of the gearbox can be caused by wear or failure of its shaft bearings, as well as significant wear of gears and synchronizers. To determine what is causing the increased noise, you will need to disassemble it.

    This work is quite complex technologically, and if the car owner is not confident in his abilities, then it is better to contact a specialized service station, otherwise in the future, incorrect assembly can lead to more significant consequences, or to the fact that the gearbox will not work.

    But, if you decided to repair the VAZ-2107 gearbox yourself, then this will require a set of keys and sockets, a powerful screwdriver, and pullers for removing bearings.

    First of all, unscrew the nuts that secure the shift lever housing and remove the lever from the box.

    Then the exhaust pipe mounting bracket is removed. After this, the bolts securing the rear and bottom covers of the box are unscrewed. This will be enough to visually determine the condition of the gears and synchronizers.

    If significant wear is noticed, then most likely the reason for the increased noise in them. But it is also worth checking the box shafts for axial displacement. If there is one, then the bearings are also very worn and require replacement.

    To carry out work to replace worn parts, a complete disassembly of the gearbox will be required. To do this, first remove the back cover by unscrewing the nut securing it, access to which is possible after removing the bottom cover.

    To make it easier to remove, you will need to move the 1st-2nd gear slider down. Then, lightly tapping the lid, remove it from the studs.

    To gain access to the 5th gear and reverse bearing, you need to press out the plug. After which the 5th and reverse gear block is removed.

    Using a puller, the bearing and the secondary shaft oil seal are carefully removed from the cover housing. If they show signs of noticeable wear, they are replaced with new ones.

    Further disassembly

    To further disassemble the box, the clutch housing is disconnected from it. This will allow access to the front cover seal of the box. If oil leakage is noticed, the oil seal must be replaced.

    Next, unscrew the front cover bearing bolt, the gear block bolt and the intermediate shaft mounting bolt. After which the plate is unscrewed, under which there are springs and slider clamps.

    The springs and retainers are also removed, it is important to note which spring was in which socket, since the spring for 5th gear and reverse is slightly longer.

    After these procedures, the gear block is removed. But before that, you need to remember the location of the spacer rings. First, the 5th gear gears are removed along with the shift rod. In most cases, gears have travel stops in the form of locking rings; they must be removed carefully.

    Then the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft is removed and this shaft is removed from the housing. After this, the slider responsible for engaging 3rd and 4th gears is removed from the body, having previously unscrewed the bolt securing the shift fork from it.

    In the same way, the 1st and 2nd gear slider is removed. When removing them, it is important not to lose the locking blocks located in the box housing.

    Having finished with the sliders, you can remove the input shaft. The next step is to remove the locking plate, behind which is the secondary shaft bearing.

    After removing it, it will be possible to remove the secondary shaft. Disassembly is complete.

    Increased noise

    After disassembly, you need to troubleshoot the box parts. If severe wear of the gear teeth is noticed, they must be replaced. It is better to replace gears one by one. So as not to confuse the gears.

    Many gears have retaining rings. Synchronizers also undergo the same troubleshooting. If they notice even slight wear or damage, they are replaced.

    Particular attention should be paid to the condition of the bearings. They should not have any play or the appearance of deep treadmills of balls.

    Although, even if the bearing looks good on the outside, it is better to replace it. This eliminates the possibility of noise occurring after the box is assembled.

    Spontaneous speed shutdown

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    If the repair of the VAZ-2107 gearbox is associated with the spontaneous shutdown of any gear, then in this case the sliders and clamps need close attention.

    It is necessary to inspect the condition of the fastener seats. If the edges of the seats are heavily worn, then the sliders need to be replaced.

    Another method of restoring seats is used by some craftsmen. To do this, a layer of metal is applied to the seats using a welding machine. And then, using a grinder, new seats are cut out in the applied metal.

    • The method is quite simple, but not very effective, since the applied metal is softer in structure, which means it will wear out much faster.
    • It is advisable to replace the clamps during repairs, as well as the springs that press them to the slides.
    • This is done because the springs are constantly pressed and shrink over time, which is why they do not create the required force on the clamps.

    Difficulty switching

    The reasons for difficult gear shifting may be severe contamination of the lever linkage or jamming of the sliders.

    In order to determine the cause of this malfunction, you need to take the shift lever housing and check if there is any jamming when the lever moves. If there is one, you need to establish the cause and eliminate it.

    If the lever in the body moves without much effort, then the reason is in the sliders. After removing them from the gearbox housing, you need to carefully inspect them. Usually, in places where the sliders jam, marks remain in the form of abrasions and scratches.

    Then you need to inspect the seats of the slides for the presence of particles that cause jamming. Alternatively, there may be a slight bend in the slider itself. In this case, the slider is replaced.

    Oil leakage

    The causes of oil leakage, as already mentioned, may be worn or damaged oil seals. In principle, in cases where the VAZ-2107 gearbox is being repaired, it is better to always replace the oil seals with new ones.

    Also, to prevent oil leakage, it is also better to replace all gaskets with new ones and use sealant when assembling the gearbox. All gaskets and seals are sold as one repair kit.

    Another option for leakage could be the appearance of a crack in the gearbox housing or, in a rare case, the piercing of the housing due to a strong blow to it.

    Repairing the VAZ-2107 gearbox in this case comes down to replacing the crankcase or sealing a crack or breakdown.

    The simplest method is to weld the crack. Before using the welding machine, the edges of the crack are drilled to prevent further expansion, the surface is degreased and welding is performed.

    In the event of a crankcase breakdown, you can take a metal patch and weld it, thereby sealing the hole.

    Another option is to apply a metal patch and then secure it with bolts. To do this, holes are made in the crankcase around the breakdown and threads are cut into them. Holes are also drilled in the patch so that they exactly match the holes in the crankcase.

    Before fixing the patch, a rubber gasket cut from the chamber is placed between it and the crankcase. Next, the patch is bolted to the point of penetration, thereby preventing oil leakage.

    1. It is important that when choosing bolts, you need to take into account their length so that they do not protrude beyond the inner surface of the crankcase and do not interfere with the rotation of the gears.
    2. The VAZ 2107 gearbox is not a manual transmission of a Mercedes, Audi or other foreign car, and the work here is not as complicated as it might seem.
    3. But you should still understand that if you want your car to drive, then any repair must be approached competently, and for this you need to be a specialist, and before starting such work, think about whether you can handle it.
    4. Video from Evgeny Karpov - repair of a VAZ classic 5-speed gearbox.
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    Diagnostics of box bearings

    To check the condition of the gearbox bearings, the device must be disassembled and access to the parts must be opened. This method is the most accurate and effective.

    After dismantling and disassembling the unit, you should check the shafts for play, the integrity of the seals and sealing rings. Additionally, the condition of the seats is checked. In normal condition, the formation of backlash and damage to rubber seals is unacceptable. If this is found, the part should be replaced.

    Rules for disassembling and assembling the gearbox

    If the user has never encountered the repair of such a complex unit, the procedure should be carefully prepared.

    1. Disassembly of the mechanism is carried out only after it has been completely cleaned of dirt.
    2. All the tools required for disassembly are pre-prepared - keys, squeezes, pliers, lock ring pullers. It is also advisable to have a separate container for storing small bolts, nuts, and washers.
    3. It is necessary to dismantle the mechanism parts by first treating the bolts with an anti-boiling agent.
    4. When disassembling, the units are folded in the dismantling sequence.
    5. Human memory is extremely unreliable - a photograph of a disassembled mechanism before its reassembly is the best reminder.
    6. All gaskets without exception must be replaced. Recycling of seals is strictly prohibited.
    7. No one has canceled the abundance of the cleaner. When washing the structure, you should not skimp on the cleaning material; the better you wash it, the more fun it will be.
    8. Assembly of the unit is carried out exclusively in the reverse order.
    9. If after installation there are excess parts left (which is not uncommon), the entire gearbox is completely rebuilt.

    It is also necessary to maintain maximum cleanliness during work. Dust, metal shavings, or foreign objects can cause serious damage to the gears.

    5-mortar repair

    The above procedure involves complete disassembly of the unit as a preventative measure. However, it happens that the manual transmission unit knocks out or slips during driver manipulations. Moreover, the VAZ five-speed transmission suffers from such things all the time. The reason for the repair may be one of the following factors:

    • the rocker lever gets stuck;
    • extraneous noise when driving;
    • one of the gears falls out;
    • Positions are difficult to switch on.

    For a more accurate understanding of the process, you can watch video master classes of the process from experienced specialists.

    4th gear slips out

    On a five-speed VAZ 2107 gearbox, fifth speed overshoot can provoke wear of the gear, synchronizer, and related parts.
    During the repair, the 3/4 clutch, the damaged element and a complete set of seals that are subject to separation during disassembly are replaced.

    Note! Some mechanics claim that in 40% of cases, replacing the driveshaft mount and clutch fork saves the day.

    5th gear slips out

    The five-speed gearbox of the “seven” periodically gives out vagaries to the user due to insufficient gear lubrication. It is recommended that in case of knockout or tight engagement of a position, completely change the synchronizers, gear, fork and bushings - this will ensure stable operation of the unit.

    Note! Before purchasing spare parts, it is necessary to troubleshoot them. Some stores sell "crooked" parts.

    Repair of gearbox lever (backstage) VAZ 2107

    If the gearbox linkage (handle) becomes loose, repairs can be carried out even without removing the unit from the car. However, some experts recommend using “garage” repair parts. For the convenience of the reader and a clearer explanation of the process, it is better to complete the description in pictures.

    1. Dismantle the cover and remove the locking bar from the rocker bushing.

    1. After release, the lever axis is removed; for convenience, you can push the insert with a screwdriver or a pusher.

    1. Usually the bushing itself wears out; you can replace it with a new insert or a standard M10 bolt.

    1. Next, fasten everything in the reverse order and tighten the structure.

    Old style gearbox repair

    Before repairing an old-type VAZ gearbox, it is advisable to study the user manual or technical documentation. The main nuance is the absence of 5th gear - the classic system has only 4 positions. Therefore, the reverse gear is located separately. This should be taken into account during repairs.

    Repair process

    When starting to repair or tune the gearbox, try to wash all accessible surfaces with kerosene as thoroughly as possible.

    Next, you should carefully unscrew all the fastening bolts, sequentially releasing the parts.

    Each gear is disassembled separately, and it is important to carefully check not only the gaskets, but also the seals. Correcting and diagnosing breakdowns includes replacing gaskets, this is a prerequisite; oil seals are usually changed if they are very worn.

    The disassembled VAZ 5 mortar box must be washed again, after which all parts are checked again for faults and, if necessary, replaced with new ones. Most often you have to replace a worn gear or bearing.

    To replace parts, you can buy a ready-made gearbox repair kit, designed taking into account the most frequently occurring faults in five-speed gearboxes. Also, before disassembling the transmission, prepare the necessary tools: an impact driver, a three-jaw puller, wrenches of different diameters and a torque wrench. Also for maintenance you will need fixing glue, a set of gaskets and seals, preferably a repair kit.

    It should be noted that, like any gearbox, the VAZ 2107 5 mortar requires periodic maintenance to prevent malfunctions while driving.

    After all the parts have been checked and replaced, you can begin assembling the gearbox, carrying out all the steps in the reverse order. If the parts have undergone too much wear and replacement of individual components no longer helps, a complete replacement of the gearbox on a VAZ 2107 may be necessary.

    Thus, it is quite possible to carry out maintenance and repair of the VAZ 2107 gearbox yourself, the main thing is to follow all the requirements of the dismantling instructions and follow the drawings during assembly.

    The VAZ 2107 is equipped with two types of gearboxes, one of which is four-speed and the other five-speed. Sooner or later, these devices begin to malfunction, as a result of which it becomes almost impossible to drive a car. In this material, we will find out what the repair of both types of gearboxes on a VAZ 2107 is, what are the differences between these two mechanisms, and when repair work is required.

    Replacing bearings

    It is impossible to repair the bearings - when they wear out, the non-separable structure changes entirely.

    Main shaft bearing

    For dismantling you will need:

    • clamp the input shaft into a yew;
    • Using a special puller, remove the bearing from its seat.

    The removal procedure is accompanied by slight tapping of the part. The installation procedure is performed in reverse order.

    Secondary shaft bearing

    The only difference between the procedures is the use of different sized bearings.

    Replacing the intermediate shaft bearings

    The procedure is carried out similarly with the intermediate element. Using yews and a special puller

    Replacing the bearing of the input shaft of the VAZ 2107 gearbox

    Remove the bell and retaining rings from the dismantled box. No further disassembly is required. The procedure is as follows:

    • Using a powerful screwdriver, pick up the bearing of the input shaft of the VAZ 2107 gearbox by the annular groove . Serious efforts will be required, so you need to choose a screwdriver that is as strong as possible so that it does not break or bend.
    • Push the transmission input shaft forward using the shaft bearing as a support.

    • Slowly pull the bearing off the input shaft by tapping it with a hammer. Between hammer blows, the shaft must be rotated slightly to avoid bearing misalignment.

    Knocking out a bearing takes from 5 minutes to half an hour. It all depends on the skill of the mechanic and on how closely the bearing is “affined” with the shaft.

    The new bearing is pressed onto the shaft using a light hammer. The blows must be applied to the inner ring of the bearing. This should be done carefully and evenly, pulling the input shaft forward.

    The advantage of this method is that there is no need to sort through the insides of the box, risking unbalancing it. Also, replacing a bearing without disassembling the entire gearbox significantly saves time.

    After replacing the bearing, all that remains is to install the gearbox in place. Given its weight, it is advisable to carry out the work together. The operations are carried out in the reverse order of removing the box and do not cause any difficulties.

    Replacing oil seals

    Structurally, the oil seal is a sealing device that closes the passage to oil. When a part wears out, the housing stops holding liquid and an oil leak occurs.

    To dismantle the part, you will need to perform a certain sequence of actions.

    Input shaft oil seal

    The procedure is performed like this:

    • completely disassemble the gearbox to open access to the oil seal;
    • pry off the seal ring with an awl;
    • remove the oil seal itself from the shaft;
    • Installation of the new part is carried out in the reverse order.

    Secondary shaft oil seal

    Disassembling the secondary shaft oil seal is more difficult.

    1. Remove the centering device from the shaft flange.
    2. Use a special puller to pull the flange off the secondary shaft along with the washer;
    3. Use a screwdriver to pry the oil seal out of its socket.
    4. Carefully install the new seal.


    1 – bottom cover; 2 – hole plug for checking the oil level; 3 – gear II of the intermediate shaft; 4 – gear III gear of the intermediate shaft; 5 – intermediate shaft (gear block); 6 – front bearing of the intermediate shaft; 7 – bolt of the clamping washer; 8 – clamping washer of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft; 9 – constant mesh gear of the intermediate shaft; 10 – thrust washer of the synchronizer spring for the fourth gear of the input shaft; 11 – input shaft; 12 – front cover; 13 – input shaft oil seal; 14 – rear bearing of the input shaft; 15 – clutch housing; 16 – gearbox housing; 17 – breather; 18 – constant mesh gear of the input shaft; 19 – needle bearing of the front end of the secondary shaft; 20 – gear ring of the 4th gear synchronizer; 21 – sliding clutch for synchronizer of 4th and 3rd gears; 22 – blocking ring of the third gear synchronizer; 23 – third gear synchronizer spring; 24 – gear III gear of the secondary shaft; 25 – gear II gear of the secondary shaft; 26 – hub of the sliding clutch for the synchronizer of 1st and 2nd gears; 27 – secondary shaft; 28 – gear 1st gear of the secondary shaft; 29 – bushing of the 1st gear gear of the secondary shaft; 30 – intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft; 31 – secondary shaft reverse gear; 32 – gear shift lever rod; 33 – thrust pad; 34 – elastic bushing; 35 – spacer sleeve; 36 – locking sleeve; 37 – outer cover of the gear shift lever; 38 – inner cover of the gear shift lever; 39 – spherical washer of the ball joint of the lever; 40 – gear shift lever; 41 – secondary shaft rear bearing oil seal; 42 – flange of the elastic coupling of the cardan shaft; 43 – nut of the rear end of the secondary shaft; 44 – seal for the centering ring of the elastic coupling of the cardan shaft; 45 – centering ring of the elastic coupling of the cardan shaft; 46 – rear bearing of the secondary shaft; 47 – speedometer drive drive gear; 48 – speedometer drive; 49 – rear cover of the gearbox; 50 – reverse fork; 51 – reverse intermediate gear; 52 – reverse gear of the intermediate shaft; 53 – axis of the reverse intermediate gear; 54 – gear 1st gear of the intermediate shaft; 55 – magnet; 56 – magnetic plug

    Gear shift drive

    1 – reverse fork; 2 – tension spring of the gear shift lever; 3 – guide cup of the lever; 4 – ball joint of the lever; 5 – gear shift lever; 6 – spherical washer; 7 – lever spring; 8 – retaining ring; 9 – damper locking sleeve; 10 – elastic damper bushings; 11 – damper spacer bushing; 12 – damper thrust pad; 13 – gear shift lever rod; 14 – shift fork for 3rd and 4th gears; 15 – shift fork for 1st and 2nd gears; 16 – fork rod for 1st and 2nd gears; 17 – fork rod for 3rd and 4th gears; 18 – reverse fork rod; 19 – blocking crackers; 20 – clamp cover; 21 – bushing; 22 – clamp spring; 23 – locking ball; 24 – rear cover of the gearbox; 25 – reverse light switch; 26 – remote bushing for the reverse fork rod

    The car is usually equipped with a four-speed gearbox (see figure Gearbox), and on some cars - a five-speed gearbox with synchronizers in all forward gears.

    The four-speed gearbox consists of a primary 11, secondary 27 and intermediate 5 shafts, a crankcase 16 and a gear shift mechanism.

    The input shaft 11 is made as one piece with a gear 18 of constant mesh. It rotates on two ball bearings, the front one is pressed into the socket of the crankshaft end, the rear bearing 14 is placed in the gearbox housing and is sealed with an oil seal 13.

    The secondary shaft 27 is mounted in three bearings. The front needle bearing 19 is installed in the bore of the input shaft, the middle bearing 30 is a ball bearing, pressed into the socket of the gearbox housing 16, the rear bearing 46, located in the socket of the rear cover 49, is sealed with an oil seal 41. The first gear gear 28 and the gear are freely located on the secondary shaft 25 second gear, gear 24 third gear; they are in constant mesh with the intermediate shaft gears of the same name.

    At the front end of the secondary shaft there are three splines on which the hub of the sliding clutch 21 for the third and fourth gear synchronizer is located. The hub 26 of the sliding clutch of 1st and 2nd gears is connected to the shaft in a similar way. Reverse gear 31 is secured to the shaft with a key. The drive gear 47 of the speedometer drive is located on the rear journal of the shaft. The flange 42 of the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft is mounted on the shaft splines and is secured with a nut 43.

    The intermediate shaft 5 is made as one piece with the gear block and rests on two bearings; front bearing 6 is ball, fixed on the shaft with washer 8 and bolt 7, rear bearing is roller, cylindrical. The reverse gear 52 is located on the shaft splines.

    The reverse intermediate gear 51 rotates freely on an axis 53, pressed into the holes of the box housing and its rear cover 49.

    The synchronizers for all gears have the same design. Each of them consists of a hub 26, a coupling 21, locking rings 22 and springs 23.

    The hub is rigidly connected to the secondary shaft. A sliding clutch is located on the outer splines of the hub. The locking ring, with its inner rim, is connected to the synchronizer rim of the gear of any forward gear and is constantly pressed towards the sliding clutch.

    Gear shifting is carried out using a mechanical drive, consisting of three rods 16, 17, 18 (see figure Gear shift drive), on which forks 14, 15, 1 are attached, which fit into the recesses of the sliding clutches of the forward gear synchronizers. And fork 1 fits into the annular recess of the reverse intermediate gear.

    The five-speed gearbox is based on the four-speed one. The fifth gear is located in the cavity of the rear cover 24 (see figure Rear part of a five-speed gearbox), the shape of which has therefore been changed. On the rear part of the secondary shaft 1, the reverse driven gear 2 and the hub 3 of the 5th gear synchronizer clutch are secured with one key.

    Gear 8 of the fifth gear rotates on sleeve 10. The fifth stage receives its drive from a gear block 23, which is mounted on the splines of the intermediate shaft 25 and secured to them with a bolt 22. An additional support for the gear block is a cylindrical roller bearing 21.

    How to replace gears and synchronizers

    Initially, it is recommended that if replacement is necessary, contact a car service center. However, if you are confident in your abilities, you can perform the operation yourself. For this you will need:

    • yews;
    • special puller;
    • flat head screwdriver.

    Next, the procedure is performed as follows.

    1. Remove the shaft from the gearbox and clamp one side of it into a yew, having previously wrapped it with a soft lining.
    2. Using a screwdriver or awl, remove the retaining rings and all bearings.
    3. Then rest the shaft against the double support and remove the gears from it in direct sequence.

    Transmission repair without removing the box

    In case of emergency, you can repair the VAZ 5th transmission without removing the housing from the car. When performing the procedure, the car is driven onto an overpass or inspection hole. All manipulations are performed upside down, which complicates the process. Therefore, experienced auto mechanics prefer to first dismantle the unit from the car.

    Second phase. Disassembly and direct repair

    Before starting repairs, it is necessary to clean the outer part of the gearbox using a brush and rinse it with kerosene. Now we can begin. The fork that disengages the clutch and the release bearing in the clutch is removed from the gearbox. We separate the secondary shaft from the propeller shaft and disconnect the edge of the EF from the secondary shaft. Then we separate the entire power unit block. We remove the speedometer drive.

    1. It is necessary to remove the cuff from the ball joint;
    2. Unscrew the three fastening nuts that secure the shift lever to the rear of the crankcase;
    3. The sealing gasket is removed from the stud;
    4. Using a socket-type wrench, loosen the nuts that secure the supports (bracket) of the exhaust pipe;
    5. This support is removed and the bolt that is located between them is removed;
    6. The nuts that secure the cover from the back must be unscrewed using a thirteen wrench;
    7. Using a 10mm socket wrench, unscrew the 10 nuts securing the bottom cover of the box;
    8. After which the cover is removed and the gasket is removed from under it;

    If the nuts are turned out at the same time as the studs, it would be wise to use fixing glue. Before applying it to threaded holes and studs, they must first be washed with solvent. After completing this procedure, you need to take a 30mm wrench and unscrew the nut that secures the back cover. You can see it inside the crankcase itself.

    Then you need to remove the back cover. Important! It is necessary to put in second gear. We take out the plug made of plastic, which is located on the back of the lid; using tweezers or tweezers, you need to remove the thrust ring. And finally, we take out the secondary shaft ring, which is located inside.

    Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace bearings. So, replacing the VAZ 2107 gearbox bearings will be carried out according to the following algorithm:

    1. The retaining ring is removed from the holder located outside;
    2. Using a puller, the ring is removed;
    3. Then we take out the old bearing and insert a new one, after which we put the retaining ring in place.

    This completes the disassembly of the VAZ2107 gearbox. Now you can replace all unusable parts.

    The vehicle's transmission helps transmit the required torque to the vehicle's wheels in accordance with the vehicle's speed. In this article we will look at what a gearbox secondary shaft is, and also touch upon such important parts as the bearing, secondary shaft oil seal and their replacement.

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