Why does the starter not respond to turning the key on a VAZ 2110

VAZ 2110 starter does not work

When you turn the key, the starter does not work, but when you close the terminals on the starter itself with a screwdriver, it turns perfectly and the car starts.
I can't understand the reason? The starter and battery are new VAZ 2110. It will not start with the key. Closing the starter directly also does not start. What is the problem? Starter brushes.

When you turn the key there are clicks and the panel starts flashing! The battery is charged, the light does not go out (tried it). Tell me where to look for the problem.

Hello! The starter turns, the battery is new, the spark plugs have been replaced. The timing belt is in order, the marks are set. The crankshaft sensor is new. VAZ 21102 2002, injector, 8 valve.

Tell me where to watch? It won’t start, there is no spark, at first it was troublesome, but it started, and then it stopped altogether and the spark disappeared.

Good afternoon everyone. Tell me where to look? The bottom line is this: it won’t start, that is, either the starter or the contact group doesn’t work. From time to time when you turn the key there is silence, that is.

If the retractor relay clicks on the starter, this means that the power contacts in it are burnt, but if it is silent after turning the key, then check the ignition switch, wiring, and relay if present.

I also noticed that I didn’t turn off the radio for 20 minutes and such nonsense began. I recharged it, drove it for a couple of days, started normally, then it started again. I checked the battery with a load plug, I thought it might be the problem, but no, everything is fine. It holds the voltage and load perfectly, so I don’t know what’s wrong anymore. I'll try changing the ignition switch as well.

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When the VAZ 2110 starter does not turn on, check the relay; it is located on the engine panel.

Look at the contact pad of the ignition switch, check the wires on the relay for breaks.

Replacing the unit

The starter on the VAZ 2107 does not turn.
Now another question arises - how to disassemble it? There shouldn’t be any particular problems with this matter if you arm yourself with the instruction manual and also read our recommendations.

Arm yourself with a set of keys for 10, 13, 15 and 8 millimeters. Actually, you don’t really need anything else in terms of tools.

Replacement

The sequence of dismantling and repair is as follows:

Drive the car into the pit or lift it using a lift. You must have access to the underside of the car. If you have just arrived, give the engine some time to cool down. It is better to work with a cold engine. Remove the negative cables from the battery. First remove the protection and then the tin casing that protects your gearbox. To do this, you will need two keys - 8 and 10 millimeters. The power wire plug is removed from the starter. You just need to pull it towards yourself a little. Now take a 13 mm wrench and use it to unscrew the power wiring located on the solenoid relay. Place the loose wire aside and secure it with something temporarily so that it does not interfere with further repairs. The starter is attached to the gearbox housing with two nuts. They are easily loosened with a 15mm wrench. If you have problems unwinding, lubricate the fasteners with the almighty WD40. Dismantle. Now check the condition of the bushings on the gearbox housing. Make sure that the armature shaft is in good condition; when moving, there should be no play or jamming. If such defects occur, then it is recommended to immediately replace the bushings with new and high-quality ones. There are always two bushings. One is at the bottom of the starter, and the second is on the gearbox housing. The bushing on the starter can be changed without any problems, but difficulties may arise with the second one. To dismantle it, you need a special tool called a rubber. It is better to entrust the work to specialists from a service station. If the cause of the starter malfunction is the bendix or the solenoid relay, there is no need to call the experts for help. To remove the relay, unscrew the power wire, or rather its fastening, from the starter housing. You will need a 13mm wrench. Use a 8mm wrench to remove the two bolts securing the relay to the starter housing

It is important to be careful here, because when removing the bolts, there is a spring in the relay that can spring back. Hold it with your hand when dismantling. Remove the relay piston from the rocker arm hook located on the bendix. Proceeding in reverse order, install a new relay. If you need to replace the bendix, then remove the solenoid relay, unscrew the two bolts with a 10mm wrench at the back of the starter

Now disconnect the starter housing from the front of the starter where the bendix, rotor and fork are located. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the plastic fork to remove it from the armature, and remove the armature itself and the bendix from the front of the body. Remove the retaining ring located on the tip of the armature and remove the desired bendix. The structure can be assembled in the reverse order, but the splines must first be lubricated with Litol. Test the new starter in place before beginning installation. To do this, connect the power terminals of the battery. The nuts responsible for fastening the terminals are tightened with a 13mm wrench. But it is not recommended to apply much force, since the terminals are made of copper. Clamping too hard will damage the threads, causing even more problems.

We figured out how to disassemble the starter on a VAZ 2110 and we can say that this procedure is not particularly simple, but it does not require mandatory execution by a professional auto mechanic.

The starter on the “ten” is somewhat capricious, but if you operate the car correctly, check the condition of the contacts, and also periodically flush the engine on the injection VAZ 2110, it can last a long time and reliably.

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Why does the VAZ 2110 starter not work?

There can be many reasons:

Therefore, it is quite difficult to determine why the starter does not turn on a VAZ 2110. The reason can only be understood by removing and disassembling the device. Most often, the brushes wear out or the retractor fails.

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Check the block before. Its plug on the other side often melts wires there.

The VAZ-2110 starter may not start due to the fact that when installing a new starter, sometimes they forget to connect the control wire, or during the installation process they sometimes accidentally break it without noticing it. I mean the wiring that fits onto this contact (marked with a red arrow)

If the wiring is in place, then connect the multimeter (in voltmeter mode) to this contact, the positive probe, the negative probe to the housing and turn the key to “start”, voltage should appear. If there is no voltage and the VAZ 2110 starter does not turn, then either the wire is broken or the circuit breaker is faulty. Before removing the ignition, you can also check it in the same way by connecting a multimeter to the wire that goes to the starter and turning the key to start.

Yesterday I turned off the flashing immobilizer light that is located under the steering wheel, today the car starts without problems. I don’t know what will happen next?

You need to check the power supply to the relay, whether the wires are connected correctly and clean the oxidized contacts. The problem may also be in the red wire that supplies voltage to the starter relay. If a thin wire was used, it can reduce the voltage by 1.5 V when heated. It is better to replace it immediately.

The starter on the VAZ 2110 does not turn when hot. What to do?

You need to start checking with the starter relay. The red wire of the solenoid relay may also come loose. Check the retractor first, because it may be the first to fail. Using a multimeter or a regular tester, you need to check whether there is voltage on the wire suitable for the relay. If voltage is supplied, then the problem is in the retractor itself.

Source

What is needed to close the starter on a VAZ-2110?

To close the starter you will need the following tool:

Screwdriver.
Key.
Metal rod.

All these elements must be such that we can reach the starter contacts.

It is also important to ensure that the current does not strike a person when closing the contacts. To do this, you can wear rubber gloves or wrap the end of a metal object with electrical tape.

Process

The process goes like this:

The car is put in neutral gear.
Raise the hood, remove the air filter from its mountings and move it to the side.
The ignition turns on.
Raise the handbrake, put the gearshift lever in the “neutral” position and turn on the ignition.
The starter contacts close.
Remove the terminal with the thinnest wire.
We close this contact with the largest terminal with a screwdriver or pliers.
The engine starts.

We do not recommend doing this due to the health risks of this method. Also, due to inept actions, it is possible to burn the entire starter and wiring.

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The starter is necessary to start the car engine and if it malfunctions, starting becomes problematic or even impossible. Therefore, it would be a good idea to find out what are the reasons for its failure and solutions, so that the driver can find and fix the problem himself.

Typical situation. After parking for the night, the driver tries to start his car, but the starter does not respond when the key is turned to the “start” position. There may be several reasons for this situation, and they are not always related specifically to the starter.

First . The battery is completely discharged. The battery can be discharged for various reasons. For example, the driver forgot to turn off the side lights or the interior light bulb, which led to a complete discharge of the battery.

One of the cells in the battery may short out, which will lead to a complete discharge.

This also includes a malfunction of the generator, which produces insufficient voltage or stops providing charging current altogether, as well as an insufficiently tensioned and torn drive belt.

The starter clicks but does not spin: cause, diagnosis, repair

Starting an engine is a complex procedure that depends on the proper operation of two components: the car battery and the starter. Directly affects the start of the engine and the presence of switching, that is, the absence of breaks in the wires and burnt-out relays in the engine starting system. There should be no problems starting the engine in a working car, and if your car starts on the second or third try, this cannot be called the norm. But it is much more unpleasant when the car engine cannot enter the operating cycle at all. A typical malfunction of the engine starting system is clicking noises when turning the key in the ignition switch. The car’s starter does not spin up at this moment; therefore, it will not be possible to start the engine in this case. Let's figure out why the starter clicks but does not spin, and the malfunction of which system components causes such a problem.

The starter is silent when you turn the ignition key - causes and methods for eliminating them

Failure of one or another vehicle component/device forces the owner to take measures to eliminate this problem. Prompt troubleshooting largely depends on the effectiveness of such measures. In order not to aggravate the situation and save time and money, diagnostic measures in this case should not be spontaneous and unreasonable.

Any malfunction has a number of characteristic symptoms and manifestations. They should serve as a starting point in solving a specific problem. Let's consider a comprehensive diagnostic procedure in the case when the starter does not respond to turning the ignition key.

What to do if the engine does not start due to the starter?

If you discover that the starter does not spin when the car is ignited, you must immediately begin examining the engine compartment to detect breakdowns and malfunctions in the system. Some of the peripheral devices may be disabled, which ultimately leads to the system being blocked when the engine starts.

If in car models produced in 2000, the problem with the lack of movement in the starter had a specific explanation in the form of wear of the teeth, now modern models may not start even with the simplest blocking of any of the sensors in the on-board computer system. Let's look at the most common problems.

Starter power supply fault

If you have problems with your car’s engine due to problems with the starter spinning up, then first of all you should pay attention to faults in the power supply of this device. As a result, you will probably simply find that the battery is severely discharged or disconnected from the terminals. In this case, the starter will not be able to start, since electricity will not flow into the system.

Tip: A lack of power supply to the starter can occur when the car jerks at low speeds. Just check the condition of the terminals and battery.

If the battery is charged and the headlights are working properly, then the problem with the starter may be due to a breakdown or breaks in the connection of the electrical wires. They will either be completely disconnected from the battery in one of the engine components, or, as a result of wear, they will spark when the engine starts.

The battery is low

The vehicle's power supply system largely depends on the health of the battery. To keep it in working order, you must comply with a number of requirements and instructions. If, for some reason, the battery was not taken care of, then sooner or later such negligent attitude will come back to haunt the owner.

The most pronounced symptoms of a faulty battery are:

All these signs, one way or another, indicate that the battery needs diagnostics. First, you should check the level and density of the electrolyte. After this, the battery must be charged using a charger. If the battery is old, charging should be done at extremely low charging current values.

During this procedure, the battery can caps must be removed. During the entire charging time, you must ensure that the battery does not self-discharge. It happens that during charging one or more cans begin to “boil” before the rest. This phenomenon indicates that the battery, due to improper care, has exhausted its resource.

Node malfunctions

The most common starter breakdowns are divided into several types. These include:

Damage to the electrical circuit. A sign of such problems is slow rotation or complete absence of it at the crankshaft when starting the internal combustion engine. The reasons for this phenomenon may be a discharge of the battery, rupture of the contacts of the ignition device, unreliable fixation, wear of the wires, or violation of the integrity of the wiring suitable for the relay contact group. If, when starting the internal combustion engine, the armature does not respond and the relay does not operate, then the cause of the failure is most likely due to a break in the solenoid relay wire. In the absence of the described “symptoms”, it is necessary to dismantle, check the plates for short circuits, and the presence of traces of “burning” in the collector system.
Worn starter brushes. The presence of such problems may be indicated by difficulty starting the car, but not always. The reason for this phenomenon may be “hidden” in a battery failure. Complete wear of the brushes leads to the spring “resting” against the brush holder (contact is ensured only due to its mass). This can be easily checked by changing the position of the starter. The reason for premature wear is the misalignment of the brushes during the operation of the starter.
Broken traction relay. This is indicated by a failure of the internal combustion engine, since it will not be possible to start the engine without a working relay. The “symptoms” of a malfunction of this starter element include its rapid rotation, even after starting the internal combustion engine, idling movement (without contact with the flywheel of the engine, which does not start), and a click after turning the key in the ignition device. It may not exist if there is a break in the coil, the armature is jammed, or there is no power for some reason.
Lack of starter rotation with a characteristic “buzzing” sound. This phenomenon indicates the occurrence of a short circuit in the electrical circuit, in which power is supplied to the brushes of the electric motor. However, it is in working condition. In such a situation, the holding coil often does not work and the bendix does not move. Its gear cannot engage the flywheel gear, and the electric motor runs in idle mode. The reason may be that the force of the retracting element “enters” the bendix through a lever made of plastic (has the shape of a grip). If the movement resistance of the bendix is high, then the plastic elements break down. As a result, it is not moved to the working position and the starter rotates, but does not transmit torque to the flywheel. Another reason for the failure of the rotor can be severe wear of the teeth, which are located on the rotor shaft of the electric motor. Do not forget that complete destruction of the mentioned teeth can also cause failure. This type of malfunction is related to the breakdown of the motor and is not related to the functioning of the drive. The presence of such a breakdown is indicated by the activation of all starter mechanisms, that is, the rotation of the electric motor and the transition of the bendix to the working position. It can be locked by turning the key in the ignition.

The main malfunctions of the unit include: the appearance of oxide on the wires and terminals, failure of the traction relay and traction winding, wear of the brushes, breakage of the armature

The listed faults can cause more serious problems if they are not corrected in time. Ignoring problems will most likely lead to vehicle failure at the most inopportune moment. The best solution is to contact a specialized service station when the first signs of the listed problems appear.

Wiring

Often, difficulties with starting the engine are caused by mechanical or electrical damage to individual sections and associated wiring elements in the starter circuit. This leads to the fact that the starter is “silent”, no matter how diligently the driver closes the starter circuit with the ignition key. To identify such failures, you should use a tester and a test lamp.

Diagnosis of this kind of problem requires a certain sequence of actions:

A test lamp can be useful if there is a high probability that the stator winding of the electric motor has failed, or the brushes have become unusable.

Starter malfunction

As practice shows, most of the problems associated with starting the engine are directly related to the breakdown of the starter.

If, when you turn the key to the “Start” position, the starter does not manifest itself in any way, the reason for this may be:

Eliminating each of the presented reasons requires dismantling the starter, followed by disassembling and replacing the corresponding elements. The further sequence of assembling the device should be done in reverse order. It is important not to confuse the location of the underwater terminals.

A thick wire is connected to the starter power contact terminal, a thin wire is connected from the ignition switch to the “retractor” windings. The second “nickle” is connected to the stator winding of the motor.

Troubleshooting methods

If the check reveals a short circuit, it is easier to immediately replace the part with a new one. To restore normal conductivity on the “nickels” and correct a break in the holding winding at the fastening point, disassemble the spare part, desolder the terminals, clean the copper from oxide, reassemble, and tighten the fasteners.

Depending on the manufacturer and year of manufacture, the solenoid relay comes with a detachable housing (the cover of the power contacts is secured with screws) and with a one-piece housing (rolled into the metal of the housing). Diagnostics of both types of parts can be carried out without opening them, but there is a problem with repairs: with “one-piece” parts, the body is very difficult to assemble neatly and can easily be damaged during assembly. A cracked cover is unsuitable for further use. If you have little experience in fine work with electromechanical devices, it is easier to purchase a new, known working relay.

Other reasons

In addition to the malfunctions presented, there are a number of factors that can cause such a malfunction.

It is worth noting that the starter relay and the traction or retractor relay are two different devices. The starter relay is an auxiliary device that allows you to convert the current permissible for the ignition switch contacts into a high-power current necessary to start the starter.

Engine starting methods

If such a nuisance takes a car enthusiast by surprise on the road, there are a number of practice-tested methods and techniques that will allow you to start the engine in extreme conditions. This will require a minimum of tools and a maximum of dedication and dexterity of the driver.

Among them are:

The first option is considered if the ignition switch has failed or power is not supplied to the “retractor” winding.

Its essence is as follows: the car is put in neutral, the handbrake is “cocked”, the ignition is turned on, and with the help of any metal object, be it a screwdriver or a pry bar, two power contacts are closed. Their role is played by the power contact from the battery and the underwater contact going to the auxiliary relay terminal.

What to do if something happened to the Bendix drive elements? A proven patented tool that has no analogues in the whole world will come to the rescue - the “hammer”.

If the Bendix fork or drive rod jams, just tap the “retractor” with the handle of a hammer several times. Just don’t be aggressive and use “careless hardware” with excessive zeal. A light tap will be more than enough.

Perhaps the most extraordinary method is to influence the drive axle of the car. But still he has the right to exist. To do this you will need a jack, a shoe and a fabric cable or sling.

It consists of the following:

In this case, the center differential will not allow the car to “fly off” from the jack, unless, of course, the lock is turned on.

You should not be skeptical about this method. If such a breakdown takes a motorist by surprise on a remote winter road, this seemingly absurd method can save his life.

Diagnosis and elimination of the presented starter malfunction consists of practical skills, the basis of which is knowledge of the operating principles and operating features of all related devices and components of the car. Effective mastery of such skills allows you to increase the professional level of the driver and emerge victorious from the most difficult situations.

Source

How else can you start the car if the starter does not turn?

There are other ways to start a car without a starter: by towing or using a pushrod.
Important! Both options are not suitable for cars with automatic transmission, since due to the design features of the automatic transmission, negative consequences are possible. Pushing is a more common method among motorists, but requires the help of several people

Pushing is a more common method among motorists, but requires the help of several people.

Towing a car will require a strong cable. It connects to the hook of another car, after which it moves off. If there are no ignition problems or other engine malfunctions, it almost always starts.

It’s just important to follow a few rules:

The leading vehicle should not start from a place abruptly, at high speed, as the bumper can be torn out of place or the cable can break;
the towed car is prohibited from sharply braking or stopping while the leading car is driving, which also threatens to break the cable and other consequences;
Do not turn off the engine while unhooking the cable, otherwise it may not start again.

The “push” method is suitable for any model, the main thing is that several pairs of hands firmly rest on the trunk or hood of the car. It is advisable to set the gearbox to 2nd, 4th or reverse gear. The faster the car accelerates, the greater the chance of starting the engine. Therefore, it is recommended to push the product on the descent.

Another launch option is suitable for cars with front-wheel drive. It is necessary to lift the car and hang one of the wheels. Then turn it all the way away from the car, wrap a towing cable or a strong rope 5 meters long around the tire. Set to third gear and turn on the ignition. Pull the cord sharply, spinning the wheel. After starting the engine, place the gear lever in neutral. This method is carried out with an assistant - one person sits in the car, the other pulls the rope.

Some rear-wheel drive cars, for example, the VAZ 2107, can be started with a crooked starter - the crank. Having inserted one end of it into a specially provided hole on the body, you should quickly rotate it in one direction.

The starter is a simple but extremely important component of internal combustion engine vehicles. 90% of cases of difficult starting are explained by problems with oxidized contacts, broken wires or electrical faults. Therefore, first of all, it is recommended to audit these components.

Why doesn't the starter turn in a VAZ 2110?

Quite often, VAZ 2110 owners are faced with a problem: the VAZ 2110 starter does not turn the injector 8 and 16 valves! In today's article we will look in detail at the main causes of this problem and consider ways to eliminate it.

The starter on the VAZ 2110 is a simple brushed DC motor, powered by the car’s battery. It should be noted that at any engine speed its power will be quite high; this parameter of collector internal combustion engines is well implemented in the unit. Even if the load on the device varies, the power level will always be the same. However, if the device works slowly or poorly, turns, clicks, but the internal combustion engine does not start when you turn the key, then you need to pay attention to diagnosing each component.

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Home » Clips » Where is the starter relay on KAMAZ

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VAZ 2110 starter does not work - where to look for the problem

Problems with starter failure can occur at the most unexpected moment. Since the engine cannot be started, the problem turns out to be quite serious. But you can try to solve this problem yourself.

It is no secret that it is impossible to start a car without a starter. Therefore, his condition should always be treated with increased attention. If it was not possible to save the element, then it is quite possible to carry out the repair yourself. It will be much cheaper than going to a service station.

Malfunctions and methods for checking the VAZ 2110 starter retractor relay

You got behind the wheel, turned the key, the instrument panel turned on, and the fuel pump started working. You turn further, but the panel turns off and the starter is silent. You release the key, the panel lights up again and the fuel pump starts working.

First of all, check if there is voltage going to the solenoid relay. Is it coming? Try closing the starter. Refuses to turn? Disconnect the alarm system, it may also be the cause, just like the ignition switch of the VAZ 2110 itself.

Burnt contact of the starter solenoid relay VAZ 2110

Have you discovered that everything works in “independent mode”, but together it fails? This means that the solenoid relay is faulty and should be replaced.

This component of the system is a simple electromagnet.

This electromagnet includes:

As for the principle of operation, it is quite simple. Two wires are supplied to the relay - from the battery and from the ignition switch (voltage appears on this wire only if the key is turned all the way).

When the driver releases the key, the voltage disappears. During the generation of voltage, the relay begins to operate, and the winding inside it is under the influence of voltage. As a result, the attraction of the so-called armature occurs, which subsequently begins to act on the rod located in the lower part of the electromagnet.

VAZ 2110 starter retractor relays in a box

This rod is directly connected to a jumper designed to close the contacts when voltage appears. At the same moment, the gear moves relative to the mechanism pulley. As a result, voltage begins to flow to the windings of the electric motor, as a result of which the flywheel rotates, and with it the crankshaft of the VAZ 2110 engine begins to rotate

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Home » New » Operating principle of the starter interlock relay on KAMAZ

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The blender or crown of the VAZ 2110 is faulty - how to check

Bendix is a device consisting of two parts - an overrunning clutch, as well as a gear, which is located directly on it

It should be noted that the overrunning clutch is directly connected to the starter pulley thanks to splines installed in a spiral. The mechanism moves along these slots when the driver tries to start the engine.

Blendix VAZ 2110 in perfect condition

If the starter does not click and does not work or works slowly even when hot, the problem may lie in the bendix. In addition, there is another fork on the device, consisting of two metal plates mounted directly on the overrunning clutch. This fork is attached to two opposite points of the element. One of the edges of the plates is made in the form of a rectangle.

When the driver turns the key in the ignition, the retractor relay acts on these plates. Next, the gear moves along the pulley using splines until the element engages with the flywheel rim.

Starter design

But if the starter turns, but the VAZ-2110 car does not start, there may be a malfunction not only in the engine, but also in the battery. It is quite possible that it has discharged or become unusable. Therefore, you need to be able to correctly diagnose faults.

Starter design on the “ten”:

Fixed part (stator) with winding.
Steel bushing on the rear cover of the unit.
Rotor with winding and lamellas.
Planetary gearbox – consists of three gears.
Solenoid relay – serves for both mechanical and electrical switching.
Bendix is an element that is necessary to connect the rotor to the flywheel crown. It has an overrunning clutch that allows the gear to rotate in only one direction.
Housing with covers - all structural elements are installed here.

Now let's look at all these elements separately and find out what kind of breakdowns they can have.

Checking the overrunning clutch of the VAZ 2110 starter

A cold engine starts without the slightest problem. You are driving quietly, stopping somewhere - to go to the store or for other matters. You return a few minutes later and are faced with a problem: the starter clicks, but refuses to work. And only after the engine has cooled down the car starts.

The first culprit in this situation is the overrunning clutch (popularly called Bendix, from the name of the well-known manufacturer of this part). It is better to replace it with a gearbox.

But you check and there is no malfunction? The next line is the wires going to the battery. Examine them carefully. It is quite possible that replacing the wire will solve all the issues.

Starter VAZ 2110 disassembled

There may be another situation: while on the road, the radio starts to turn off spontaneously, despite your attempts to turn it on. Having stopped to look and turned off your VAZ 2110, you soon discover that you cannot get the starter to crank. We checked the battery, everything is fine, but the car, which previously started normally, suddenly struggles.

You start pushing, and it works, everything works again. Almost certainly the problem is in the Bendix.

Instructions for repairing and replacing the device

What to do if the starter does not turn, the relay does not click and the car does not start

Replacing a VAZ 2110 starter and repairing it looks like this:

Disconnect the battery and disconnect the wire plug from the relay. Dismantle the wire itself, which o.
The starter mechanism should be disconnected from the engine; to do this, unscrew the nuts that secure it.
If you are making a replacement, then at this stage the device can be dismantled and replaced with a new one. If you decide to repair, then move on.
On the relay itself, unscrew the nut, and then disconnect the traction element from the screw. The relay is removed; to do this, you also need to unscrew the two clamps.
Then the anchor is dismantled from the seat; to do this, the element should be slightly lifted up.
Remove the pins, and then remove the starter cover. The cover is dismantled first with the drive and gear element, and then with the brush assembly and their retainer, which is located next to the commutator.
Next, the gear is removed from the anchor shaft, and the anchor itself is then removed. Having done this, you can remove the gears from the gearbox. If they show signs of damage or defects, the gears should be replaced.
The gear component is removed from the cover. Check the quality of the seal and replace it if necessary.
Using a mandrel, it is necessary to dismantle the restrictive ring; it is located directly on the locking ring, after which the drive and other elements, including supports, levers and washers, are dismantled. Each of the elements, if necessary, must be replaced.
After dismantling the brushes, you need to check them. If signs of wear are visible, the brushes are replaced. All failed components are replaced, and the starter is reassembled in the reverse order.

The article describes in great detail with photo accompaniment the process of repairing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car.

In a new car, breakdowns and malfunctions in the starter rarely occur. But if the car has been in service for more than 5 years, then problems may arise. The car owner himself can determine if the starter is faulty - the car will not start, there are uncharacteristic sounds when starting the engine, the starter turns off spontaneously.

But many motorists do not pay attention to such car signals. And they bring the situation to the point where it is no longer possible to “save” the starter. But an experienced motorist who monitors his car will immediately determine the malfunction of this part by the sound of the car running. So how do you repair a starter? Its repair takes place in several dozen stages described below.