Why does the starter not turn or click on a VAZ-2109 and how to fix it

The starter on the VAZ 2109 does not turn - there are clicks, but not enough, where to look for the reason?

Hello, dear car enthusiasts!
All. But, especially car enthusiasts of VAZ models. VAZ starters, despite their reliability, durability and endurance, still fail sooner or later. The average starter life is usually 5-6 years, which is half the life of the engine. And whether there is a malfunction of the VAZ 21093 starter, or the VAZ 2109 or 21099 starter does not turn, the problem will still have to be solved by diagnosing, repairing, and possibly even replacing this electrical component.

Since the VAZ starter design differs only slightly, we will take into consideration the situation when the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn.

After turning the key in the ignition, you may find that:

• VAZ 2109,21099 starter does not work after a single click;
• The VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after a whole “trill” of frequent successive clicks;
• The starter response to turning the key is completely absent.

What to do if the starter does not work? Of course, look for the cause of this phenomenon and try to eliminate it.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after one click

reasons why the VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not turn after a single click.

The power bolts on the solenoid relay may have burnt out. This defect leads to the fact that from the supplied 12V, only about 6-7V reaches the starter.

The fork that pushes out the starter bendix may be bent, broken, or otherwise deformed. In this situation, the bendix does not fully fit the flywheel; the cores only partially enter the coil, preventing the contacts from closing.

The teeth on the Bendix sprocket have worn out. Because of this, the solenoid relay cannot transmit voltage to the starter.

Also, the cause of the phenomenon of “one click” of the starter may be either worn-out brushes or armature bushings, or a short circuit in the winding.

VAZ 2109, 21099 starter does not work after frequent clicks

A crackling sound from the starter in response to turning the key in the lock may indicate the need to charge the battery and check whether the terminals on it are oxidized or loose.

Repeated clicks are repeated due to the fact that the retracting winding retracts the core, and the holding winding cannot hold it and lets go. This can continue until the battery runs out completely.

VAZ 2109.21099 starter does not work and there is no response to turning the key

The absence of any response from the starter to turning the key in the lock sometimes indicates a short circuit in the windings (if smoke and a burning smell appears from the starter when you try to start).

If the lack of starter response is not accompanied by “special effects” in the form of smoke and a characteristic odor, you should pay attention to the condition of the additional relay and the contacts of the battery terminals.

The same reaction of the starter is observed when the ring in the starter gearbox is partially destroyed.

If the starter does not respond to turning the key in the lock, you need to take into account that the reason may lie in the key itself. If the check confirms this, it will be enough to just replace the ignition key to fix the problem.

It may also happen that after removing and disassembling the starter, you will not find any damage. Do not rush to replace it with a new one or go to a car service center. Perhaps after you clean the starter, apply new grease and reinstall it, it will come back to life.

After you find and fix the starter malfunction, try not to cause it to break down again in the future, because this lightweight device already has a hard time - the rotation of the massive flywheel and the start of movement of the entire piston group of the engine depend on its serviceability.

The starter on the “Nine” does not turn: we are looking for the cause and a way to eliminate it

Many owners of Russian-made cars are faced with the problem of the inability to start the car, and the reasons may be different. And quite often it happens that the VAZ 2109 does not start due to the fact that the car’s starter does not turn. You can learn more about this malfunction, as well as options for solving the problem, from this material.

VAZ 2109 starter clicks but does not turn.

#1 [email protected]

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I was driving along the highway and heard an extraneous hum, stopped, turned it off, and the hum did not go away. I opened the hood, saw that the thick + wire had unscrewed and shorted the second large terminal, the starter spun for a couple of minutes. I turned everything on, started it up and drove off. This morning I tried to start the car, I heard a click and silence. I cleaned the small and large terminals - no result. I measured the small wire to the retractor with a tester, voltage is supplied.

Read also:  Replacing the inner and outer CV joints on a VAZ 2114

I tried on the large terminal and it is also served. I use a screwdriver to tighten 2 bolts. starts normally. Where to look next?

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#2 1headhunter1

Look again respectfully! To restore respect to the prisoner, as everything is good, then turn over the lock itself! Take all the darts from the starter, and then three of them go to the tester! Using the key, we made a couple of wraps and with this stitch on testers change voltage !If you can’t change it, then press the start button again or buy a new lock! Everything is brilliantly simple!

Post edited by 1headhunter1: 08 January 2014 - 22:05

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#3 phozzy

I was driving along the highway and heard an extraneous hum, stopped, turned it off, and the hum did not go away. I opened the hood, saw that the thick + wire had unscrewed and shorted the second large terminal, the starter spun for a couple of minutes. I turned everything on, started it up and drove off. This morning I tried to start the car, I heard a click and silence. I cleaned the small and large terminals - no result. I measured the small wire to the retractor with a tester, voltage is supplied.

I tried on the large terminal and it is also served. I use a screwdriver to tighten 2 bolts. starts normally. Where to look next?

I had the same problem, when starting the car there was a click and that was it, but it wasn’t always like this, but very often, the problem was solved by replacing the retractor and brushes. I went to my electrician, he did it for me in 40 minutes)

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#4 Brain

I had the same problem - I changed the bushings, the retractor, and finally the starter. And then I charged the battery and everything went away. By the way, if you need a starter (I have 2 of them) or a retractor, I’ll sell it if that happens)

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#5 Demyan-ogly

Repair of walk-behind tractors, lawn mowers, chainsaws, brush cutters and other small motorized equipment. Quality. Guarantee. Low prices.

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#6 Brain

I forgot about one more thing - in your case, maybe a simple starter relay. It is not located on the fuse panel, but in the engine compartment where the main brake is in the center.

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#7 serj

it happened on a penny, they checked everything the same way as you, in the end they found that it was the ignition switch that had been tampered with, they brought the button into the interior to the starter and voila

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#8 Carpe Diem

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#9 Gadyukin

I was driving along the highway and heard an extraneous hum, stopped, turned it off, and the hum did not go away. I opened the hood, saw that the thick + wire had unscrewed and shorted the second large terminal, the starter spun for a couple of minutes. I turned everything on, started it up and drove off. This morning I tried to start the car, I heard a click and silence. I cleaned the small and large terminals - no result. I measured the small wire to the retractor with a tester, voltage is supplied.

How to check the starter traction relay yourself

You can check the starter traction relay with your own hands using an autotester. To do this, you first need to measure the voltage from the battery at the starter contact. After this, the tester probe is connected to the starter output, after which it is necessary to turn on the ignition and turn the key to the “start” position.

During measurements, you need to pay attention to the following: if measurements at the input show a voltage that corresponds to the normal charge of the battery, but when the traction relay is activated, the voltage at the output drops 2-3 times, then there is a high probability of burning out the power contacts of the traction relay.

If the input voltage corresponds to the voltage of a charged battery and a similar voltage indicator is noted at the output of the traction relay, then the contacts of the traction relay are in perfect order. This indicates that the breakdown occurred in the starter. In the first case, the traction relay should be disassembled, after which the contacts should be cleaned, and the jumper plate should also be cleaned. A non-separable traction relay should be replaced with a new or known-good device. In the second case, you will need to remove the starter for detailed diagnostics and troubleshooting of the device.

Why the starter may not work after turning the key in the ignition. The main causes of starter malfunctions: bendix, traction relay, brushes, winding.

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How to determine why the fuel pump does not pump or works poorly. Fuel rail pressure, pump diagnostics. Wiring, relays, fuel pump fuses.

The purpose of the flywheel in the design of the crank mechanism. Types of flywheels and features of damping systems.

Starter malfunctions

You can diagnose a malfunction with just one startup attempt. To do this, you just need to turn the ignition key clockwise until it stops. Listen to see if there are any changes. If the electric motor is spinning and the solenoid relay is activated, then the fault lies in the planetary gearbox or in the overrunning clutch. In the second, breakdown occurs more often. To eliminate it, it is necessary to replace the bendix.

If the problem is in the planetary gears, you will need to disassemble the electric starter and select similar gears. Another case is possible in which, after turning the key in the ignition switch, no changes follow, there are not even clicks of the retractor relay. Check for voltage at the relay control terminal. You can even set the car to the parking brake, put the gear in neutral and, disconnecting the control wire from the pull-in wire, feed it positive from the battery using a piece of wire.

If the electromagnet is triggered, then the fault should be looked for in the ignition switch, wiring, fuses. If there is no click, then the coil of the electromagnetic relay is damaged. The best way out of this situation is to replace the retractor; it’s good that its cost is not very high. Another case: the retractor is activated, but the starter does not turn. There can be 2 reasons: they depend on whether there is voltage at the power terminal of the relay, which is connected to the electric starter winding.

1. There is voltage - the fault lies in the brush assembly or in the rotor and stator windings.
2. No voltage - contacts inside the solenoid electromagnetic relay are dirty. To repair it, it will be enough to disassemble it and clean the contacts with sandpaper. But since it is necessary to solder, repairing the starter becomes more complicated and it is easier for the car owner to install a new relay.

This is how you can check the VAZ starter: quickly and without completely dismantling the unit. But if the fault is inside the device, you will need to remove it and disassemble it almost down to the screw.

Alarm Signals

The starter is the highest-loaded electrical consumer in a car. If, when starting the car, an extraneous sound, noise, or crackling appears, or it becomes clear that there have been changes in the operation of the starter, action must be taken without delay. On a VAZ 2109, problems with the starter can be different, some of them can be fixed with your own hands by reading how to do it or watching a video. Here is a small instruction on faults.

Malfunctions

• If the starter on a VAZ 2109 does not start, first you need to do a basic check
  Check if the battery is dead.
• Check the fuse in the fuse box for the starter.
• Check the relay responsible for the starter, it is located in the engine compartment (photo 2).

Changing the relay (Photo 2)

If, however, the starter does not work on the VAZ 2109 and the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist.

• On VAZ 2109 the starter barely turns
  you need to make sure that the battery charge is normal
• Is the alternator belt too tight?

Advice! If the problem is different, you need to contact a specialist; perhaps the starter bushings are worn out or another reason. More often on a VAZ 2109, the starter turns poorly due to wear of the front bushing installed in the engine crankcase.

• On a VAZ 2109, the starter sticks (by turning the key to the “engine start” mode, the starter is activated for 1-2 seconds, which is not enough to start the engine and stops)
  you need to make sure that the terminals on the battery are not heating up, and that the positive wire leading to the starter is not heating up. If it gets hot, it means there is a bad connection.
• The armature bushings may need to be replaced.
• On a VAZ 2109 the starter sticks, in other words on a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn off (releasing the key after starting the engine, the starter continues to work)
  The additional starter relay (not the solenoid relay) may have failed.
• It is possible that the contacts (nickels) of the starter solenoid relay are sticking.
• Or there is a malfunction in the contact group of the ignition switch - the contacts have fused.
• On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn in the cold (the starter turns a little, but with a lot of tension, or does not turn at all)
  Most likely, in the cold, the chemical processes in the battery have stopped. You need to turn on the light for a few minutes; this will help accelerate the battery.
• Another option involves heating the battery in a warm room (do not make the temperature difference too large, for example, placing it in hot water)
• You can also start the car by throwing power from another car
• If the previous options did not help, the battery needs to be replaced.
• On a VAZ 2109, the starter does not turn, the relay clicks (when you hold the key in the “engine start” mode, the relay automatically turns on and off)
  Dead battery

This happens because there is enough battery charge for the solenoid relay to operate. When the contacts close, the starter consumes a lot of current, but this current is not enough for it to work. The voltage on the battery drops and the solenoid relay returns to its original position. There is no more load, again there is enough current for the retractor to work. The actions are repeated. So:

• On a VAZ 2109 the starter does not turn on (the solenoid relay turned on, but the starter did not turn on)
  Starter brushes are worn out (photo 3)
• The starter may have burned out
• starter jammed

Advice! If the starter is burned out, sometimes it is more advisable to buy a new starter; the price of the starter varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

The brushes are worn out and do not reach the anchor (photo 3)

• On VAZ 2109 the starter is cracking
  Flywheel teeth are broken or worn. (photo 4)
• The bendix (the mechanism that engages with the flywheel) is worn out.

This is where the starter is cracking (Photo 4)

Advice! One of the most common starter malfunctions is armature play. How to eliminate play in the VAZ 2109 starter armature. The sliding bushings need to be replaced. The greatest difficulty for some is replacing the front bushing located in the crankcase (photo 5). Namely, how to get this bushing?

Solutions

• We select a suitable tap, screw it into the bushing and pull it out.
• Or cut the bushing with a sharp object (screwdriver, small chisel, etc.)

Bushing in the body (photo 5)

At first glance, there are a lot of starter malfunctions, but nothing is impossible. What is made by human hands can definitely be repaired, and with the necessary knowledge and skills, this can be done much faster and with better quality. Good repair.

The starter clicks but does not turn, what is the reason?

Good afternoon. Many car enthusiasts are familiar with the situation when the starter clicks but does not turn. As luck would have it, such situations happen at the most inconvenient moments, for example, at gas stations or when leaving for work.

In today's article, we will tell you how to determine the malfunction and, if possible, start the car to get to the repair site.

Before telling the troubleshooting algorithm, let's look at the starter device. For clarity, watch this video:

As you can see, the starter is a regular DC motor and relay. When you turn the key in the ignition and hear a click, it is the solenoid relay that clicks (the coil and contacts at the top of the screen in the video). If the starter does not rotate, but clicks, the following options are possible:

• The battery is dead.
• starter relay failed
• The contact coins in the solenoid relay are burnt.
• The starter brushes are worn.
• the starter armature is jammed.
• power plus is not supplied to the starter (because if there is no mass there will not even be retractor clicks)

Popular causes of malfunction

The most common reasons account for about 95% of all cases where the starter does not turn. That’s why we pay attention to them first.

Situation

Probable Causes

There is one click, after which the starter goes silent.

Multiple clicks occur in succession

Clicks are completely absent, as are other signs of starter life.

Often, simply disassembling and cleaning the internal components of the starter can eliminate problems with its functionality. Therefore, after removing the device and not finding damaged elements inside it, try to thoroughly clean everything, assemble it and put it back in place. It is likely that the starter will start turning.

Causes of malfunction

Before we begin to study the causes of the malfunction, we remind you that hereinafter we are talking about the crackling noise of the starter, which is most similar to the loud rattling of the contacts of an electromagnetic relay. If you hear an unpleasant metallic grinding noise from under the hood, then it appears due to poor engagement of the overrunning clutch (starter Bendix) with the flywheel teeth - that’s a completely different story.

Most often, the starter crackles when you turn the ignition key for three reasons:

Low battery

To understand the cause of the crackling noise due to a discharged battery, let's remember the starter device. When you turn the ignition key, the voltage from the on-board network is supplied to the coil of its solenoid relay. The electromagnetic forces that appear in this case cause the armature of the device to move. It closes the power contacts that connect the starter motor to the battery, and in addition, causes the Bendix gear to engage with the flywheel.

Why does the starter click but not turn?

Components of a starter using the example of a VAZ 2114

Novice drivers are often mistaken, thinking that the clicking noise is caused by the starter relay. But in fact, the source of the sounds is the retractor device, which engages the Bendix operating gear with the engine flywheel crown and ensures its starting.

Note: the sound produced by the solenoid relay is practically inaudible. The mistake of many novice car enthusiasts is that they blame this particular device. If the relay is faulty, then the car starter will not work.

If you hear several clicks

Experienced drivers can determine by the nature of the clicks exactly where there is a malfunction. If you hear several clicks when you turn the ignition key, you should look for a problem in:

• traction relay that supplies voltage to the starter;
• poor contact between relay and starter;
• insufficient contact of mass;
• other starter contacts that do not fit well together.

The proper operation of the engine starting system depends on the normal functioning of each component. And it doesn’t matter what car you drive: Priora or Kalina, Ford, Nexia or another foreign car. Therefore, you first need to check the electrical connections, starting from the car battery terminals to the starter contacts. This often helps to start the engine, get to the nearest service station and conduct more detailed diagnostics of the starting system.

One click is heard

A powerful click and the engine not starting indicates a problem in the starter. The sound itself indicates that the traction device is working and electric current is flowing to it. But the charge force supplied to the retractor is insufficient to start the engine.

You should try to start the engine several times (2-3) with an interval of 10-20 seconds. If attempts are unsuccessful, then the following reasons are possible:

• the bushings and internal brushes of the starter are heavily worn and must be replaced;
• there is a short circuit or break in the winding inside the unit;
• burnt contacts of the power cable;
• the retractor device has failed and is blocking the start;
• problems with bendix.

Faulty bendix is ​​one of the problems

Bendix teeth may be damaged and prevent the starter from starting properly.

Bendix plays an important role in starting the internal combustion engine (ICE). It is part of the starting system and is located in the starter. If the bendix is ​​deformed, then starting the engine will be difficult. Here are two common Bendix malfunctions: damage to the teeth of the working gear, failure of the drive fork.

The retractor and bendix are connected to each other by a fork. If full retraction does not occur at the moment of switching on, the teeth will not engage the flywheel. In this case, the engine does not start.

When the engine starts the second or third time, you should not put off visiting a car mechanic to service your vehicle. One day you will not be able to start your car, you will have to look for other ways to start the engine.

Checking the functionality of the VAZ 2110 starter - why doesn’t it turn?

Before we begin disassembling the starting system mechanism of interest to us, we should make sure that it does not work precisely because of its malfunction. The check is performed as follows:

• We turn the gear in the direction of rotation of the armature. It should not turn in the opposite direction. If such reverse rotation is present, this indicates a faulty starter.
• We check the ease of movement of the device coupling along the shaft (use a screwdriver). With a normally functioning mechanism, the coupling moves without the slightest difficulty.

Using the “lighter” wires and the battery, we analyze the serviceability of the starter. To do this, we connect the negative terminal (black wire) to the starter housing, and connect the traction relay through its control cable to the positive terminal (red wire).

In cases where the relay operates normally, the drive clutch extends and a characteristic click is heard. If it does not turn on, you will have to disassemble the starter and replace the traction device.

Also, the starter of a VAZ 2110 car does not turn when its anchor does not work. Checking the armature is done as follows: remove the cable from the relay (from its output); connect the specified cable to the contact bolt. If the armature is in good working order, its rotation frequency should be at least five thousand revolutions per minute. If the frequency is lower, the starter does not operate.

The relay clicks, but the car does not start, how to start the car?

It seems like such a small unit, but it could be the reason why the car won’t start . But if you have a VAZ 2121 or any other VAZ with a manual transmission, then there is an excellent way out of the situation - just take and start the car from the pushrod. To do this, you need to turn the key, as you usually turn it when you want to start the car.

Then find several people and the whole crowd needs to push the car and continue to push it until the speed becomes more or less normal - about 5 km/h or more. At this moment you need to squeeze the clutch, engage 2nd gear and release the clutch, the car will jerk and should start, you need to give the gas at the moment when the car tries to start. If the car stalls, you need to repeat these steps. If it doesn’t stall, then you can drive on without stopping.

And you have to drive carefully so that the car doesn’t stall at a traffic light, and of course, you don’t have to turn off the engine yourself. If there is no one around to ask to push the car, then you need to look for a hill nearby and push the car yourself up to this hill and drive off it. When the car starts to roll down the hill, you can also turn the ignition key and engage second gear and release the clutch.

In general, the car will start this way without a starter and without a battery..

Video advice is a useful way to get out of a situation where the starter clicks but does not turn: