The VAZ 2107 engine injector troubles and does not pull

Causes of malfunction

Motorists are wondering: why does the VAZ 2107 engine suffer from injector problems? Many owners of injection VAZ 2107 encountered the fact that the engine began to stall. This malfunction is typical for the entire family of Lada engines. What are the reasons for this effect and where to look for the problem:

Fuel pump and filter.
Injectors.
Spark plugs and high-voltage wires.
Air filter.
Throttle.
valves.
ECU and sensors.

Reasons for failure of one of the cylinders

The engine can begin to trouble for several reasons and it is quite difficult to immediately diagnose the problem; it is recommended to start checking with the most harmless parts, following the list below.

The engine on a VAZ 2107 may triple for the following reasons:

Unstable operation of the injection engine. Troits, stalls.

Everything that concerns the injection classics - nozzles, firmware, sensors and other headaches that carburetor owners are deprived of

Alexey220880 Trainee Messages: 18 Registered: Sun Apr 22, 2012 15:52:32 Car model: VAZ 210740 Engine type: Injection

Re: Three)))

Unread message Alexey220880 » Thu May 03, 2012 15:54:39

TeMa-RuS wrote:
help)) in general this is the situation
I start the engine when it’s cold and it starts perfectly as always, it revs at 1500rpm. It works well, doesn’t jerk anything, as soon as the revolutions drop below 1000 the car shakes, and then it starts to stall altogether. I turn off the engine, start it again, it works for about 30 seconds, also shaking at 800 rpm, and then it starts again. And if you maintain the speed of the gas pedal from 1100 rpm or more, it doesn’t start to triple, I don’t know what the reason is, there were no errors in the diagnostics, I don’t know.
PS before this, the econometer showed between yellow and green at idle, but now it’s approximately in the middle of green...
I'm HZ with a car 21074 2005 injector

I had this happen once. I reset the settings to factory settings through BC State and everything worked

Alexey220880

Denzel Pedestrian Messages: 4 Registered: Wed Jun 20, 2012 16:38:50 Car model: VAZ-21074 Engine type: Injection Thanks: 1 time

Re: Trouble engine(

Unread message Denzel » Wed Jun 20, 2012 17:12:07
Hello man. I have exactly the same situation with my car. the engine sometimes hesitates, does not pull, as if a couple of cylinders are not working, then again after restarting the internal combustion engine begins to work normally (thrust is excellent), I was thinking maybe the ignition module is stuck, does not provide voltage to two spark plugs at once, or the spark plugs either work or not, I changed them - Also! I changed the throttle sensor, maybe it was stupid in adjusting the fuel, but no, the air flow sensor also seems to be working properly, it was connected to the lambda probe, it was torn off from my wiring, although I drove like this for a year (I got the service car with huge quirks, I went through everything) I connected it to Hoping for the best doesn't help. And when I go for diagnostics, this bastard starts working perfectly, even if you stick in the dumbest spark plugs! I'm fed up and don't know what to do. When driving, when the internal combustion engine stalls, I restart the engine - it starts working normally again - so the problem is definitely not mechanical. I thought maybe the fuel pump was dull at times, but its operation could be heard. I think it’s useless to blame the crankshaft position sensor, since without it the injection phases are not visible at all and the engine, although it stalls, does not stall (the mixture of the remaining cylinders is changed to maintain operation).

Maybe you solved the problem so please describe it!

Denzel

Violent General of the Automotive Troops semerka.info Messages: 40652 Registered: Thu Dec 11, 2008 17:11:37 Car model: Priora station wagon. There was a whole range of “classics”. Engine type: Injection From: Krasnodar region, Khadyzhensk Thanked: 2250 times Thanked: 4632 times

Re: Trouble engine(

Unread message Violent » Wed Jun 20, 2012 17:22:06 Denzel
I read your opus.

Denzel wrote: it's like a couple of cylinders aren't firing.

This is actually true. The ECU cuts off a couple of pots so as not to finish the cat.

To normal

The diagnostician doesn’t need a malfunctioning machine, he will do everything without your stories. Misfires, three-hundredth errors, there are many reasons... and not always electrical. Iron, valves...

Violent

zombie177rus Eternal Memory! Messages: 12668 Registered: Thu Oct 27, 2011 13:50:40 Car model: VAZ2107, not much stock Engine type: Injection From: Moscow Thanked: 90 times Thanked: 1275 times

zombie177rus

Denzel Pedestrian Messages: 4 Registered: Wed Jun 20, 2012 16:38:50 Car model: VAZ-21074 Engine type: Injection Thanks: 1 time

Re: Trouble engine(

Unread message Denzel » Thu Jun 21, 2012 7:41:26
AM you mean faster? For some reason I doubt that it’s a matter of mechanics, since in this case the errors would be constant and it would happen all the time. sensors collect information for the ECU, which in turn selects a program for coordinating and operating the internal combustion engine based on available data, comparing it with existing similar programs in memory

Denzel

Re: Trouble engine(

Unread message zombie177rus » Thu Jun 21, 2012 19:10:54
Adjust the valves quickly. As for doubts: here people don’t wave their tongues like a broom when they give advice. If you don’t believe it, study the algorithm of the ECU.

zombie177rus

Denzel Pedestrian Messages: 4 Registered: Wed Jun 20, 2012 16:38:50 Car model: VAZ-21074 Engine type: Injection Thanks: 1 time

Re: Trouble engine(

Unread message Denzel » Fri Jun 22, 2012 13:11:32
valves are free and when warmed up they tap a little, which means the seat is 100% seated

Denzel

Denzel Pedestrian Messages: 4 Registered: Wed Jun 20, 2012 16:38:50 Car model: VAZ-21074 Engine type: Injection Thanks: 1 time

Re: Trouble engine(

Unread message Denzel » Fri Jun 22, 2012 13:16:13
for the advice Thanks

Now I checked all the wires, I summed up the loose ones, so far it’s not bad, I’ll go for a ride again and write about it

Denzel

zombie177rus

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message Violent » Mon Jun 25, 2012 17:10:16
MAKSIMZINOVIEV It will not be TDC. There is a mark on the drive pulley for this.

Violent

Rustem Moderator Messages: 11727 Registered: Wed Feb 17, 2010 18:10:56 Car model: seven, everything else in my topic Engine type: Carburetor From: city of three screws Thanked: 111 times Thanked: 1340 times

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message by rustem » Mon Jun 25, 2012 18:08:56

MAKSIMZINOVIEV wrote: is it possible to catch the piston TDC on the injector, so unscrew the spark plug and crank the engine until a spark jumps?

crankshaft rotation speed too low

Buiny wrote: There is a mark on the drive pulley for this.

Exactly. A rag and a mirror will help.

My seven - What a strange sword you have, sir.

-This is fittings, sir.

rustem

MAKSIMZINOVIEV Beginner classicist Messages: 199 Registered: Sun Oct 09, 2011 13:22:57 Car model: Chevrolet Niva LC Engine type: Injection From: Kaluga Thanked: 5 times Thanked: 22 times

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message MAKSIMZINOVIEV » Tue Jun 26, 2012 8:27:40

Buiny wrote: MAKSIMZINOVIEV It will not be TDC. There is a mark on the drive pulley for this.

not critical, the main thing is that at the moment when the spark jumps both valves are closed, I did this on a carb 5 with a contact system. ignition everything turned out interesting on the injector, it will work out and is not dangerous for the brain

MAKSIMZINOVIEV

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message by rustem » Tue Jun 26, 2012 13:23:49

MAKSIMZINOVIEV wrote: I did this on a carb 5 with a contact system. ignition

MAKSIMZINOVIEV

This won’t work at BSZ, and neither will it with an engineer. There is no impulse.

My seven - What a strange sword you have, sir.

-This is fittings, sir.

rustem

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message Buivny » Tue Jun 26, 2012 15:19:31

MAKSIMZINOVIEV wrote: it’s interesting that this will happen on the injector

The ECU most likely will not see the scrolling and will not issue a signal to the MZ/KZ to supply a spark. Try it and write back. Why?

Violent

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message MAKSIMZINOVIEV » Tue Jun 26, 2012 18:10:57

Buiny wrote: The ECU most likely will not see the scrolling and will not issue a signal to the MZ/KZ to supply a spark. Try it and write back. Why?

Yes, I’m afraid to try, I don’t know if it’s harmful for the brain. Well, I'm used to adjusting the valves this way. Habit is second nature

MAKSIMZINOVIEV

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message Violent » Wed Jun 27, 2012 4:09:44 AM

MAKSIMZINOVIEV wrote: it’s not harmful for the brain.

The crankshaft (and ECU) is deeply violet about what will turn it - the starter, your hand with the key, the driveshaft from the driver...

Violent

BORODA Moderator Messages: 2851 Registered: Wed Jul 28, 2010 17:22:14 Car model: VAZ 2107 (Electric package) Engine type: Injection From: Syktyvkar Thanked: 103 times Thanked: 371 times

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message BORODA » Wed Jun 27, 2012 17:36:13

MAKSIMZINOVIEV wrote: is it possible to catch the piston TDC on the injector, so unscrew the spark plug and crank the engine until a spark jumps?

UNDER NO EVENT CAN YOU!

I personally know a man whose entire hand was crushed with a key when he did this! True, this happened in a foreign car with a Hall DPKV, but why take the risk?

BORODA

Re: Trouble engine - Injector

Unread message BORODA » Wed Jun 27, 2012 18:01:51
MAKSIMZINOVIEV In “Hall” sensors, the difference + – occurs instantly, the brain simply perceives it as a command to start. In seven, the DPKV is inductive, but it’s not worth the risk, IMHO.

BORODA

Main reasons

There are many reasons for this phenomenon and in most cases they are associated with a malfunction of the systems and mechanisms of the power plant.

Some of them are trivial and very easy to fix, others require quite serious repairs.

The main problem with the fact that the engine does not pull is not related to eliminating the malfunction, but to finding it.

In some cases, it is very difficult to determine what caused the reduction in traction effort and you have to go through almost the entire engine.

Therefore, we will try to indicate the main reasons why the car accelerates very “sluggishly”.

Since engines on different cars have their own design features, we will consider specific models.

Conclusion

The reasons for the tripping of the VAZ 2107 injection engine have been identified and the main methods for eliminating the malfunction have been established. But, if a motorist is not sure that he is able to repair his car on his own, then it is better not to risk it and turn to professionals.

The impetus for writing this post was a real repair at the request of a client, which consisted of a simple replacement of the vacuum booster, but isn’t it true that the engine may be tripping for the wrong reasons... In this post I want to consider the main reasons for this most unpleasant phenomenon, as well as methods for diagnosing and troubleshooting repair.

Let's start with the signs that the engine is running rough. “Engine trouble” - by this we mean that one or more cylinders are not working. Accordingly, the engine does not develop full power, does not have the necessary traction force, fuel consumption increases... But we all already know this, closer to the point.

Poor quality fuel

In approximately 50% of cases, the “culprit” for loss of traction is fuel. Due to its poor quality or unsuitable octane number (OCN), the engine does not develop power.

You can determine that there is inappropriate fuel in a car’s tank based on a number of signs:

The engine started getting worse.
There was detonation. This symptom manifests itself most clearly if fuel with the required octane number is diluted with gasoline with a lower octane rating.
When examining spark plugs removed from the cylinder block (BC), you can see black or reddish (brick) carbon deposits, which are uncharacteristic of serviceable parts, which indicates the presence of unnecessary impurities. The first option indicates that gasoline does not burn completely, the second confirms the presence of additives containing metal.
Ineffective spark plugs. This can be determined during a sharp increase in speed, when the engine has no reserve for further acceleration. The spark plugs may be clogged due to low-quality fuel or may simply have exhausted their service life.

Solving the problem is not difficult: the low-quality fuel should be drained and the tank filled with suitable fuel with the required octane rating. Clean the spark plugs from carbon deposits, and if their service life has come to an end, replace them with new ones, all at once, in a set from one manufacturer. When carbon deposits appear, you will again have to start diagnosing the cylinder-piston group (CPG) and (or) the fuel system.

It is better to refuel at proven gas stations

Adjusting the OZ on an injection engine

Everything here is controlled by electronics. First you need to make sure that it is functioning properly and that the throttle sensor is working properly. At idle, it should be slightly open by about 1% (if this is not the case, set up a mechanical drive), the normal voltage at its contacts is 0.45-0.55 V (the car’s bot network should produce 13-14.3 V). When you sharply press the gas pedal, the damper should open 90", and the voltage on the sensor should increase to 4.5 V. If this is not the case, you need to adjust the damper drive and check the serviceability of the sensor (TPS).

Read more: Rear axle differential UAZ Patriot

To do this:

take the tester and place it in the voltage measurement position;
disconnect the connector from the sensor - you will see three contacts - one goes to ground, the other to the ECU (which one is connected where, determine from the diagram);
start the engine and check the supply voltage - it should be approximately 5 V;
turn off the engine and switch the tester to resistance measurement mode;
with the damper closed, between ground and the contact going to the computer, the device should show 0.8-1.2 kOhm;
with the damper open, resistance is 2.3-2.7 kOhm.

If the received data does not correspond to the above parameters, the sensor must be replaced. If this does not work, you should check the ECU.

Loss of traction not related to the engine

The engine is the tireless heart of the car

If the engine operation does not raise suspicions and the car does not pull, then this indicates a clutch malfunction. Destruction of the clutch plate lining or damage to the springs leads to the fact that the clutch transmits torque from the engine to the gearbox only partially, and clutch slippage occurs.

With such a malfunction, any car, including Priora, pulls very poorly.

It is quite easy to identify this malfunction. When slipping occurs, the driven disk linings overheat greatly and a specific smell appears. The malfunction is eliminated by replacing worn or damaged clutch elements.

Ignition

The car is tripping the injector due to the module

The ignition module is a unit that comes into question after all the checks have been carried out. It is the bobbin that can become the culprit for the power unit tripping at idle or in other modes. To check the coil you need to do this:

Unscrew the spark plug, then apply it to the ground (any part of the body).

If the spark is good, its color is of high quality, and a characteristic crackling sound is heard, then the serviceability of the reel is not questioned. On the contrary, if there is no spark, or it is of poor quality, the module must be replaced, and thus it will be possible to “cure” the tripping.

It's not very often that a switch goes bad, but it does happen. It must be checked and, if anything, replaced.

The float chamber needle valve is not sealed

If the tightness of the unit is broken, excess fuel enters the carburetor float chamber and, accordingly, further into the engine cylinders. Perhaps in this case, the needle valve has failed or a speck has gotten under its shut-off needle. In this case, it is considered that the carburetor begins to overflow. Typically, this malfunction is accompanied by difficulty starting a hot engine and popping noises in the muffler. It should be noted that the leakage of the needle valve is not always clearly noticeable. Excess fuel can seep into the float chamber without causing any obvious problems in engine operation. Only fuel consumption will increase by a liter - one and a half per hundred. Therefore, in any case, it is worth carrying out a simple check of the tightness of this device. It is described in almost any car repair and maintenance manual.

If you detect such a malfunction on your carburetor, you should replace the needle valve assembly. There is currently no point in repairing it, since a new one is inexpensive and is available for sale in almost any car store. The only thing is that you should be more careful when choosing a valve, since a low-quality product will add unnecessary problems and take time for additional diagnostics and repairs. Fuel nozzles of the main metering system or idle system are installed with a larger diameter. With this problem, the fuel mixture is significantly over-rich. To solve this problem, you need to check the markings of the jets.

Causes and malfunctions of engine tripping

Let's say your engine really is running rough. It is impossible to remain inactive in such a situation. On the one hand, traveling in an excessively “gluttonous” and constantly twitching car will not bring pleasure, but on the other hand, there is a possibility of failure of other components (domino effect).

Therefore, you must clearly know why the engine is tripping and what to do about it.

Let us highlight the main reasons why the engine misfires:

Ignition.
Vacuum booster.
Spark plug.
High voltage wires.
Air filter.
Piston rings.
Adjusting valves and burning them out.
Distributor malfunction.

This problem can be diagnosed by skipping one of the cycles, the appearance of sounds of “patting”, “bouncing” of the motor.

Listen to the operation of the power unit. If the engine stalls at idle, and after starting to move and gain speed, the problem disappears, then the reason is early ignition.

In this case, it is enough to make simple adjustments that will take you a minimum of time.

2. Damage to the vacuum booster system of the brake system (deterioration of the tightness of the valve or diaphragm). Such a malfunction can lead to the appearance of air in the system.

As a result, the air-fuel mixture becomes “poorer” and does not ignite in the engine. One or two “misses” are enough for the candle to get wet and stop performing its functions altogether.

The appearance of such a problem manifests itself in all modes - the engine throttles hot, cold and at idle.

3. Failure of the spark plug. As a rule, in almost half of the cases this is the main reason for the appearance of triplet.

To eliminate the problem, it is advisable to inspect the spark plugs from time to time, clean them and replace them (taking into account the timing specified in the vehicle’s operating instructions). In this case, it is advisable to change the entire set at once.

4. Breakdown of high-voltage wires is a very rare occurrence, but it does happen. What's happening? If one of the wires is damaged, the spark will break out earlier and not reach its spark plug.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem is in the dark. Start the engine and carefully inspect the area from the distributor coil to the spark plugs.

The appearance of a bright spark between the coil and the motor indicates a breakdown of the insulation of a high-voltage wire or capacitor.

As a temporary measure, insulating the damaged area is suitable (you can use regular electrical tape). In the future, it is better to replace the “culprit”.

5. Air filter dirty. There are times when car enthusiasts change the engine oil, but forget to install a new air filter.

As a result, the car begins to “suffocate.” The air-fuel mixture is not enriched with the required volume of oxygen, and the spark plugs are simply “filled” with gasoline when fuel is supplied to the engine.

Fixing this problem is not difficult - just install a new filter.

6. Deformation of piston rings is a very rare occurrence. To eliminate this problem from the “agenda”, be sure to measure the compression in the engine cylinders.

7. Failure to adjust the valves (their clearance) affects the operation of the entire unit. As a result, from time to time one of the cylinders does not receive its portion of the air-fuel mixture.

The malfunction manifests itself in all modes - the engine stalls when cold, at idle and even while driving. Another likely cause is wear on the rocker.

To fix the problem, you need to remove the cylinder head and adjust the valves according to the recommendations in the operating instructions.

8. A faulty distributor can also cause the power unit to trip.

The weak point of this device is the bushings, shafts and bearings of the rotary plate, which tend to wear out.

To correct the situation, it is necessary to repair or replace the distributor.

5. Valve or piston burnout is a serious problem that can only be eliminated by engine repair.

Attention! Determining engine tripping is not so easy, since there are a lot of reasons, the article describes the main ones, but of course not all, a lot depends on the type of engine (injector, carburetor).

The difficulty also lies in the fact that it is very difficult to diagnose the problem - it is necessary to disassemble the power unit and inspect the valves and pistons in person.

But keep in mind that it is advisable to carry out this work after the checks have been carried out (if they did not bring results) and only if you have the appropriate experience.

Remember that the life of the car and its stable operation depend only on your attentiveness.

You need to know if the engine is shaking - this is only a symptom that indicates a problem in one of the engine mechanisms.

Your task is to find the problem and fix it. The faster you do this, the fewer negative consequences there will be for the engine and the cheaper the repair will be. Good luck on the roads and of course no breakdowns.

Once the number of working cylinders in a car has decreased, you can feel that the vehicle has become less powerful. Even at idle there is significant vibration, while a shudder can be heard in the engine compartment. Among other things, it is easy to notice that gasoline consumption has increased significantly, and when you bring your nose to the exhaust gases, you can hear the smell of fuel.

If this problem is not addressed in time, the engine may require major repairs. This action will entail a waste of not only time, but also significant money.

Solution methods

When the reasons for the throttling of the injection-type VAZ 2107 engine have been determined, you can proceed directly to analyzing options for eliminating the problem. Before you begin, you need to understand that you need to know the design features of the motor.

But the 2107 engine is so simple that even the most inexperienced motorist will figure out what’s going on. So, let's look at how to remove the injector tripping of a VAZ 2107 engine.

Fuel pump and filter

The first place to look for the cause begins with the fuel supply. First, you should check the fuel pump for functionality and whether there are any malfunctions. If this element does not show visible signs of damage, then it is recommended to disassemble it and check it.

Many experienced car enthusiasts advise, after the fuel pump, to start replacing the fuel filter element, since this is where fuel can poorly pass to the injectors. The fuel filter, according to the service documentation, must be changed every 30-35 thousand kilometers.

Injectors

The next place to look for trouble is the injectors themselves. They may be clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel or defective due to their service life, in other words, worn out.

The elements are checked using a special stand, which not only diagnoses the condition, but also cleans the elements. If there is a damaged or worn part, it is better to replace it with a new element.

Spark plugs and high voltage wires

Loss of spark can also lead to engine malfunction. The next unit that needs to be examined is the ignition. First of all, it is recommended to diagnose the spark plugs. To do this, you need to pull them out from the block head and visually inspect them for cracks. Next, it is recommended to clean the spark plugs from accumulated dirt.

It is worth noting that it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the spark plug contacts. If they are in oil or have heat, then the problem is not only the engine tripping.

The next stage of diagnosis is to ring the contacts using a multimeter and measure the gap. In most cases, such diagnostics show that the spark plugs are not suitable for further use and should be replaced.

Another element of the ignition system that directly affects the ignition of the air-fuel mixture is high-voltage wires. How well and economically the motor will work will depend on their condition. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect them for damage and also test them with a multimeter.

Air filter

A dirty air filter can lead to the engine not receiving enough air into the combustion chamber, and accordingly the formation of the air-fuel mixture will be disrupted. Therefore, it is recommended to inspect the element, and if it is found that it is dirty, it must be replaced.

Throttle

A dirty throttle valve also prevents the normal flow of air into the engine. To diagnose the unit, it is necessary to dismantle it. If you find that dust and other foreign objects have accumulated on the walls, you should clean the part. To do this, you will need a special product or liquid for cleaning carburetors. This operation can be performed by any car enthusiast without any problems.

valves

Burnt-out valves can cause the engine to start to misfire, since a gap is formed between the seat and the exhaust valve, through which exhaust gases flow back into the combustion chamber, thereby disturbing the balance in the air-fuel mixture.

To diagnose the unit, it is necessary to dismantle the block head. Often, already burnt-out valves are the first sign of wear on the piston group, and accordingly everything leads to a major overhaul.

ECU and sensors

The last place to look for a problem is the sensors. Thus, failure of one or more measuring elements can cause a tripping effect. Therefore, the motorist will have to check them manually, since the electronic control unit cannot always recognize that the sensor has failed.

The electronic engine control unit can also cause tripping. Accumulated errors or damage in the software will disrupt the operation of the entire system. To diagnose and troubleshoot the problem, it is recommended to contact specialists.

Solutions to the problem

To solve the problem on your own, a motorist needs to have not only a mechanic’s tool, but also a little skill in car repair. Below is a list of all possible methods for eliminating the problem of a VAZ 2107 engine stalling.

Spark plug

When tripping occurs (failure of one of the cylinders), first of all it is necessary to check the spark plugs, since they directly affect the performance of the cylinders. Quite often it happens that one of the spark plugs fails, thereby not supplying a spark to the cylinder, which leads to misfire of the fuel mixture and, accordingly, engine throttling.

If the engine on a VAZ 2107 starts to fail, the first thing you need to do is check the spark plugs, and if they have not been changed for a long time, then it is recommended to replace them with new ones; this will never be a bad idea.

High voltage wires

After spark plugs, it is necessary to check the high-voltage wires from the distributor or ignition module (depending on the type of engine - injector or carburetor). The wires are made of special silicone with high insulation resistance, inside which there is a conductor with low resistance, through which an electric current flows, having a high voltage reaching 15 kV.

When the wires wear out, abrasions appear due to friction against the engine body, their insulation is damaged and a voltage breakdown on the engine body is possible, which will lead to misfire in the cylinder to which this wire is connected and, consequently, to engine misfiring.

Filter

To ensure long engine operation, the car uses various types of filters that help purify the air and fuel that enters the cylinders. It happens that clogged filters can affect the operation of the engine; this, of course, will not cause a failure of the cylinders, but will significantly reduce the number of engine revolutions at idle, which can be confused with the failure of one of the cylinders.

If there is any suspicion of engine trouble, it is necessary to check all the filters of the car and, if necessary, replace them with new ones.

Fuel supply

Due to poor quality fuel or clogged filters, a fuel supply interruption may occur. If the engine is carburetor, then the engine will not work steadily and the speed will drop, but this will not cause the failure of any of the cylinders, since the carburetor is responsible for the operation of all 4 cylinders at once, but in the VAZ 2107 injection engine, a blockage in the fuel system can cause the engine to trip.

The 7's injection engine has injectors installed on each cylinder; it happens that debris with fuel gets into the injectors and clogs them. If one of the injectors is clogged, this can seriously affect the operation of the cylinder into which the clogged injector supplies fuel.

To determine whether the injectors are clogged, you need to measure the fuel pressure, then turn on each of the injectors one by one using diagnostic equipment and see how much the fuel pressure drops; on all 4 injectors, the diesel fuel pressure should drop by an equal number of divisions.

If the readings on one of the injectors vary less, this indicates that it is clogged.

Clogged injectors simply need to be washed and replaced.

Ignition problems

This problem is relevant only for carburetor engines, since in an injection engine the ignition is set automatically using special sensors.

Quite often, the ignition on the distributor goes wrong, or the distributor (runner) breaks through, which leads to engine failure. But when the ignition timing is lost and then the spark may not be supplied at the right moment, but late or, conversely, earlier than expected, this will lead to improper combustion of the fuel mixture and misfires.

Ignition module and DPKV

This problem only occurs on injection engines, since carburetor engines do not have an ignition module (IM). A module is a part that produces a spark to operate all 4 cylinders of a car. Inside the module there are two coils responsible for the operation of a pair of cylinders (1-4), (2-3). It happens that one of the coils may fail, then two cylinders fail at once and it turns out that the engine “doubles”. If two cylinders fail at once on your car, then 80% is a breakdown in the ignition module.

Air leak

For the engine to operate properly, the proportions of fuel and air must be maintained; when these proportions are violated, the engine begins to operate unstably and incorrectly. A violation of the proportions can be caused by air leaks in the system of one of the cylinders, then this will cause the engine to trip.

The suction can be:

Near the intake receiver at the junction with the cylinder head;
After DMRV;
On the sealing rings of the injectors;
On the throttle assembly;

Valve clearances

Due to the design of the VAZ 2107 engine, there is a frequent need for valve adjustment. Many people forget about this and simply do not carry out this procedure on time, and this can lead to serious damage to the cylinder head. If you do not adjust the valves for a long time, they may become pinched and a gap will appear between the valve and the head; through this gap, hot gases will penetrate into the cylinder head, which will cause burnout of the valve, which will lead to inevitable repair of the cylinder head.

If the engine starts to stall, then one of the reasons may be a stuck valve or a burnt-out valve. In order to check this, it is necessary to measure the compression in the engine; if it is negligible or even zero, then the valve is definitely clamped.

Cylinder head gasket failure

Between the cylinder block and its head there is a special heat-resistant gasket that seals the cylinder and combustion chamber. It happens that due to overheating or old age, the gasket can be pierced between two cylinders or between the cylinder and the cooling jacket. This problem will cause a loss of compression in the cylinder, and the coolant in the tank will bubble if there is a breakdown between the cylinder and the cylinder head jacket.

CPG wear

This problem occurs in cars with fairly high mileage, when the piston fills an ellipse in the cylinder block and the piston rings wear out. All this significantly affects the compression ratio in the combustion chamber, compression drops, and the air-fuel mixture simply does not compress and ignite properly. Such consequences lead to misfires and engine tripping.

Exhaust system resistance

Many people consider the only task of the exhaust system to be to muffle loud sounds and remove exhaust gases. However, modern cars are equipped with a catalyst that reduces the level of emissions of harmful substances. If this element is heavily contaminated or destroyed, the passage of gases becomes difficult. As a result, the engine works “as if strangled.”

In Russia, the problem is solved by simply removing the catalyst. However, you need to remember that in some car models such an operation will require changes in electronics (programming).

Removing the catalyst

How to cold start an injection engine

Most modern cars are equipped with a fuel injection system. The system is installed only on gasoline engines. Despite the complexity of the design and high requirements for fuel quality, the injection engine has a number of advantages over the carburetor mechanism:

automatic adjustment of the injection system depending on the load;

quick engine start, increase in its dynamic performance;

low emissions of harmful substances;

saving fuel consumption due to dosed injection;

does not require prolonged warming up during low temperature conditions;

the ability to program the electronic control system depending on the manner and style of driving;

Engine faulty

Visually and auditorily evaluate the operation of the engine. If black or bluish smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe, and the engine rumbles like a tractor or the valves ring, then first we measure its compression to figure out what’s wrong with it. It’s worth doing this even if its performance is quite acceptable, but the fuel consumption does not suit you. Slightly reduced compression (pressure) in the cylinders, which is practically not noticeable in the dynamics of the car, but can increase fuel consumption from 1 to 5 liters. We measure compression with the engine warmed up to operating temperature. We unscrew all the spark plugs, then remove the central wire from the distributor and secure it at a distance of 1-2 cm from the vehicle ground. We press the compression gauge to the hole of one spark plug, the assistant turns on the ignition and turns the crankshaft with the starter. After 3-4 seconds we record the readings of the device. We repeat the operation for each cylinder. In a working engine, the difference in pressure between the cylinders should not be 1 kg/cm2, and the pressure (compression) at the end of the compression stroke should correspond to the following data: VAZ 2101-07 9.7 kg/cm2 If during the test it is determined that the compression is below normal , it is worth finding out the reason - it is wear on the piston rings, or the valves are not tight. Therefore, we pour 2 - 3 cubes of engine oil into the spark plug holes of each cylinder and measure the compression again. The pressure gauge readings have increased - the piston rings are worn out or stuck (burnt). The readings have not changed - the valves are not sealed. Both cause increased fuel consumption and require engine repair (replacement of piston rings and/or replacement of valves). You can try to bring burnt rings back into working condition by filling the cylinders with a mixture of 50% acetone, 25% kerosene, 25% motor oil, 10 cubes each, crank the crankshaft several times and leave it standing for 7 - 8 hours. Then measure the compression again; its increase will indicate that the rings have decarbonized.

Causes of cylinder failure

If the VAZ 2107 engine fails, there may be several reasons for this, and in order to find the fault, you need to perform several actions:

find the faulty cylinder;
check the spark plugs;
inspect the wires, injector, injectors, valves;
check air leaks into the carburetor;
check operation hot and cold.

Identifying a failed cylinder is quite simple. When the machine is running, you need to remove the high-voltage wires one by one if a carburetor is installed. At this moment, no current will be supplied to the spark plug and the cylinder will stop working. The injector is simpler in that you don’t need to risk disconnecting the wires; it will be enough to remove the chips responsible for controlling the fuel supply. If nothing changes and the engine continues to operate without changes, the faulty cylinder has been found.

The next step is to check the spark plug. Having unscrewed it, you should carefully inspect it. If there is carbon deposits on it, then because of this the spark will not “break through”. It is a mistake to believe that replacement or simple cleaning will solve the problem. Without finding and eliminating the cause, a new candle will take on the same appearance in a short time.

You need to check for spark. To do this, you need to put a high voltage wire on it and bring the metal end to the engine housing. Next, someone needs to crank the starter several times. If everything is normal, a spark should appear. If it is missing, this may indicate:

wire break or high resistance;
failure of the ignition coil;
malfunction of the electronic control unit;
failure of the crankshaft position sensor;
The belt is offset by several teeth.

If the spark is fine, but the car still does not pull, and you can clearly hear that the engine is shaking, the reasons may be the following:

compression is broken;
defects have arisen or the rings have worn out;
problems with injectors;
abnormal valve operation.

The cause of a non-working cylinder may be an injector or failed injectors. This may be a consequence of driving on low-quality gasoline or using homemade fuel system cleaning devices. Sometimes a breakdown is indicated by the fact that the injector has failed, but this is very rare.

Also, the VAZ 2107 engine malfunctions due to the fact that the injectors simply become clogged and it is enough to clean them. There may be a break in the power or control circuit to the injector, sometimes a short circuit occurs. It is advisable to carry out a diagnosis. Even if it does not reveal any error, this indicates that the reasons are mechanical.

There are frequent cases when the VAZ 2107 engine stalls when cold or hot. The first thing that comes to the specialist’s mind is that the valves need to be adjusted. It is recommended to perform this procedure every 20,000 km.

Cleaning and preventing plaque in the system

The injector device is very sensitive to large inclusions in gasoline.

If you are using a cheap brand of fuel, be prepared to change your injectors soon. So the first thing you should do for your VAZ fuel pump is change the brand of fuel. The power supply system of the VAZ 2107 should become cleaner; the possibility of plaque formation in the system is still not excluded. Since the flammable liquid in the channels occasionally stagnates and sometimes even freezes, an early breakdown can be prevented only in one way - regular cleaning.

Approximately every 35-40 thousand km it is necessary to carry out preventive cleaning work on the fuel system. You need to wash the channels with your own hands. The performance of the engine will depend on the quality of cleaning. If this procedure is carried out irregularly, then soon you can say goodbye to one injector and look for a new one, and then you will have to change the remaining elements of the VAZ fuel pump.

In 4-cylinder types of injection engines, different intensities of injector clogging are observed. The temperature in the area of cylinders 2 and 3 is always elevated, so sediment accumulation occurs there faster.

A special admixture of polyetheramine is considered a prophylactic agent in such cases. It prevents the accumulation of burning for a long time.

Troubles VAZ 2107 engine injector [Solved]

I need help, for the wrong reason I started up the engine on the work seven of my boss. I checked everything and nothing helps. In short, my father came home from work in the evening, everything was fine. In the morning I started to start it, the car started and started, after a while the Jackie Chan light came on. Speed sensor error.

The problem is that the computer does not detect the slave cylinder. And besides the speed sensor error, there are no other errors. I don’t understand what friction and the speed sensor have to do with it, it’s clear that it is necessary and is involved in controlling the operating modes of the computer, BUT the car doesn’t go anywhere and doesn’t move. It starts with difficulty and then stalls.

And so the ECU is January 7.2. I tossed the donor, nothing helped, it's not the ECU.

I checked the compression in all cylinders, everything is fine.

I checked the injectors, they are all working.

I threw in the ignition coil with armored wires, which was known to be good, but it didn’t help.

The crankshaft sensor was checked, it was found that the wires on the connector were stuck to the snot, I replaced the connector, but that’s not the case.

The crankshaft pulley and the drive disc have been checked and are intact and in place, TDC cylinders 1 and 4 are at the 20th tooth from the synchronization point.

I changed the spark plugs, but that's not it.

The rail pressure is excellent.

There is ground on the ecu, it has been checked, everything is fine.

There is no oxygen sensor, it is disabled by software.

DRMV is new.

I don’t know where to dig next, my fantasy is over. Tomorrow I'll replace the speed sensor, but it's unlikely to help. Help me understand the problem and repost.

Cause

The main signs why the engine is tripping

If you know the main symptoms of a malfunction, then identifying the fact of tripling will not be difficult. There are several of them:

1. There are engine malfunctions, shaking at idle, as well as strong vibrations that are transmitted to the driver and passenger cabin.

Such manifestations are difficult to confuse with something, so we can safely talk about the failure of one of the cylinders.

The only problem is that such symptoms appear too late, when one of the “culprits” has completely failed.

2. The electrodes on one of the spark plugs turn black and become covered with soot or soot. Most car enthusiasts replace a “faulty” spark plug without thinking about the reasons. You can not do it this way.

Darkening of the spark plug may be a signal of more serious engine problems that require prompt resolution.

3. The exhaust sound changes. As a rule, in the case of engine tripping, the sounds that appear literally shake the car. An experienced car enthusiast immediately notices that something is wrong with the car.

4. The “gluttony” of the car increases. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, so it is advisable to conduct a full diagnosis of the power unit.

5. The dynamics of the car deteriorate. This is especially noticeable when accelerating at low speeds.

But again, such a problem may indicate a number of other malfunctions. Therefore, a comprehensive diagnosis is needed.

In this case, fluctuations can be either very significant (from 900 to 1500 rpm) or insignificant.

7. Unpleasant jerks occur during acceleration and during normal driving in any gear.

Violation of valve timing

The main parts of the gas distribution mechanism (GRM) are the intake and exhaust valves. They are “obliged” to open and close only at the right moment so that the fuel mixture enters the cylinders on time and exhaust gases are removed. This process is called phase distribution. If it is violated, you will see that the power of the engine has disappeared, which will begin to “triple” and sometimes have difficulty starting.

Causes of valve timing violations:

wear, as well as incorrect installation, displacement of the chain or timing belt (most often this is a jump by one tooth (link));
play or deformation of the pulley on the crankshaft;
wear of hydraulic compensators, camshaft and (or) its bed;
burnout or rupture of the head gasket;
Malfunction of the camshaft position sensor (DPRV).

To restore normal operation of the timing belt, it is necessary to set the position of the timing and crankshaft shafts according to the marks. If the chain is worn, replace it. The same applies to the camshaft with a bed, hydraulic compensators, gasket and DPRV.

We look at the spark plugs

Spark plugs are an equally important element in the ignition system and stable operation of the power unit. They need to be inspected and make sure that the spark plugs are free of carbon deposits. Unscrew them from the block head; there should be no cracks or other defects on them. Test the contacts using a multimeter.

Don't forget about high-voltage wires; they are also involved in the process of igniting the fuel-air mixture. Visually assess their condition and call them; this determines how stable the engine will operate. All these nuances directly affect the level of fuel consumption of the car.

Detection of a defect and its impact on the performance of the car

Even an inexperienced owner of domestic automotive products can determine that the engine is malfunctioning by the characteristic sound of the engine. The specificity lies in the feeling of it. That the power unit works like an old washing machine, with interruptions and vibration. In turn, with this malfunction, the sounds from the muffler will resemble popping instead of the standard hissing.

The appearance of a malfunction such as engine tripping will affect the operation of the machine as follows:

Loss of power, which is logical;
Excessive fuel consumption and the appearance of a strong smell of gasoline in the exhaust pipe. This is due to the fact that the specific trembling and vibration of the motor requires additional compensation for the effort required to operate the unit;
If there is an inoperative cylinder, its contents from the fuel mixture are not consumed, but enter the engine crankcase;
The result is a decrease in oil viscosity, a violation of its lubricating characteristics, which in turn leads to a decrease in compression, wear of the piston rings, and damage to the cylinder itself;
Untimely diagnosis and elimination of this problem creates all the prerequisites for an extraordinary overhaul of the engine.

Malfunctioning spark plugs

The planned replacement of these elements of the ignition system is carried out after 20-30 thousand kilometers. If the spark plugs are platinum, the resource increases to 100 thousand km. However, the situation when candles (most often one of them) fail ahead of schedule is not uncommon.

You can see and hear this by a number of signs:

the engine starts with difficulty, especially in winter;
idling is unstable, the tachometer needle jumps, the engine may stop periodically;
when the power unit is operating, increased vibration is observed, for example, the gearbox shift lever shakes;
poor acceleration dynamics - the car does not develop full power, it stalls;
when you press the accelerator, “dips” are noticeable;
fuel consumption has increased.

When one spark plug does not work, experienced drivers say that the engine is “troubling,” that is, only 3 out of 4 cylinders are working.

To find a faulty part, you need to:

put on dielectric rubber gloves;
with the engine running, disconnect the high-voltage wire from each spark plug one by one;
in this case, the nature of the engine’s operation should change, the speed should drop, but if this does not happen, it means that the cylinder is not working - the spark plug does not produce a spark.

It is worth finding out the reason for the poor performance of the part; it is quite possible that it is defective. If other spark plugs subsequently begin to fail, you will have to look for the cause elsewhere - the CPG or the fuel system.

Causes of “triple tripping” of a VAZ car engine

Incorrect ignition timing
Air leak in the vacuum brake booster system
Spark plug fault
High voltage wire breakdown
Capacitor failure
Loss of tightness in the intake manifold area (intake manifold, carburetor)
Burnout of valve, piston
Broken piston rings
Incorrect valve adjustment
Destruction and wear of rockers (valve levers)
Cylinder head gasket failure
Wear, hardening, destruction of valve stem seals
Very low fuel quality
Incorrect carburetor adjustment
Wear of distributor shaft, rotary plate bearing
Loss of tightness of the membrane of the vacuum ignition advancer
I do not take into account the use of spark plugs that are not suitable for the engine and other “faults”.

Perhaps not all the reasons, but what I could remember, if you have anything to add, then write in the comments.

Important!
You can determine a bad cylinder using a simple, old and reliable method - one by one removing the high-voltage wire from the spark plug. You have to be very careful here, because you can get electrocuted! To carry out this manipulation more safely, you need to stand on a dielectric (rubber, wood), take a clean, dry rag, remove it by the wire, and not by the cap, and do not touch the car body at this time. It is very easy to check; use a choke to increase the idle speed to 1500 rpm and remove the caps from the spark plugs one by one. If the speed drops when the cap is removed, then the cylinder is working; if there is no difference, then the cylinder is not working.

Well, now let's talk about each of the reasons in more detail.

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Incorrect ignition timing. With this option, I personally know not a tripping, but a seemingly slamming of the engine (missing), which is accompanied by “bouncing” of the entire engine. This is especially noticeable at idle; as the speed increases, the skips disappear. Most likely, your ignition is set too early; this may also be indicated by jerky cranking of the engine by the starter when starting.
Quite often, the cause of engine tripping in a VAZ of all models (except for the VAZ 2101, which does not have a vacuum brake booster) is a loss of tightness in the hose, diaphragm, or valve. As a result, excess air appears in the intake manifold, which leads to over-leaning of the mixture and misignition of the mixture in the cylinder, as a result of which the spark plug may become wet and stop igniting the compressed mixture.
A faulty spark plug is one of the most common causes of engine misfiring. There is nothing special to tell here, it is important to remember and replace spark plugs regularly, and the presence of a spark on an inverted spark plug at atmospheric pressure does not indicate its full functionality, because ignition occurs under much more difficult conditions (Za Rulem magazine, dating back to Soviet times).
At this point I will combine the breakdown of the high-voltage wire and the capacitor on the contact ignition system. A wire breakdown can be determined by replacing all the wires, as well as the capacitor. You can also try to determine the breakdown of the wire by looking at them in complete darkness; if there is a breakdown somewhere, you will see flashes.
Loss of tightness in the collector area, as a rule, does not occur on its own. More often this happens due to incorrect assembly or bad gaskets. I also had a case where they complained about trimming at idle. The reason was the elimination of the vacuum ignition advancer and the unplugged vacuum tube on the carburetor.
As a rule, when a piston or valve burns out, the cylinder stops working altogether or does not work for a long time. It can only be determined by measuring compression and opening the engine.
Breakage or sticking of piston rings is also not a very common occurrence, because a number of conditions are necessary for its occurrence. You can check it by measuring the compression; if it turns out to be low, then eliminate cylinder head malfunctions in a simple way - pour a little oil into the cylinder; if the compression increases, then there is a malfunction in the piston system.
With incorrect valve adjustment, everything is already clear - any valve may not open or close completely. Proper valve adjustment can cure this problem. Rocker wear can cause a similar problem. The valve stops opening correctly and the cylinder stops working.
Well, now let’s briefly go over the problems that may arise with the distributor. Quite often, on not new machines, wear of both the shaft itself and the bushings in which it rotates occurs, as a result of which it becomes impossible to establish an adequate gap between the contacts. The same thing happens if the swing plate bearing is worn out. Also, misfires can occur due to depressurization in the vacuum ignition timing advancer, where the membrane may fail.

Here I have written a few reasons why a VAZ engine may be tripping, if you want to notice or ask something, write below in the comments!

Troubles the VAZ 2107 injection engine: causes and treatment methods

The VAZ family of cars, especially older generation injection engines, are famous for causing a malfunction such as tripping. Why this effect occurs and how to deal with it will be discussed in this article.