Turkish air rifles are very popular among Russian hunters due to their outstanding technical characteristics, as well as ease of maintenance. However, this does not mean that the weapon does not require regular cleaning and lubrication. We’ll talk about how to carry out such procedures correctly, as well as which gun oil is best to choose, in this article.
- Basic rules for cleaning air rifles
- Cleaning process
- Cleaning different types of rifles
- How to lubricate an air rifle
- Washing bullets
- Cleaning accessories
Basic rules for cleaning air rifles
To understand how to properly lubricate an air rifle, you first need to understand that such a procedure should only be carried out on completely clean barrels. Therefore, first, let's figure out what basic cleaning rules exist that must be followed in any case:
- Regularity. A responsible airgun manufacturer will always indicate how often a particular model needs to be serviced. If you can’t find any recommendations in the operating instructions, then you should use the “golden rule” - clean the rifle after each use. And it doesn’t matter exactly how many shots you fired. If at least one bullet passed through a lubricated barrel, then it probably left behind carbon deposits that you will have to get rid of.
- Choosing the right tools. As a rule, a bronze or plastic brush is used to remove carbon deposits from barrels. These materials are much softer than steel, so they do not leave any scratches on the barrel. However, if you need to remove leaded deposits, you will have to use stiffer brushes, for example, made of brass or steel. But such a procedure is accompanied by great risks to the “health” of the rifle, so it should be carried out only in case of emergency.
- Chemistry won't hurt. Getting rid of old gun oil may not be as easy as it seems at first glance. Even hot water and soap cannot remove all the oily residue entirely. So do not neglect the opportunity to use an alkaline or kerosene composition to remove all remaining oil. However, after such a procedure, you will have to thoroughly wash the barrel with detergent, otherwise the new oil will simply be corroded by kerosene residues.
And these are just three basic rules regarding cleaning a rifle. Of course, this procedure should be carried out as efficiently as possible. There is no point in even starting it if you don’t devote at least 5 minutes of time to removing plaque. Remember that the better you clean the barrel, the longer the weapon will last you.
MP-514K Specifications
| Characteristic | Parameter |
| Caliber | 4.5 mm |
| Weapon type | Spring-piston air rifle |
| Width | 5.5 cm |
| Height | 22 cm |
| Length | 65 cm |
| Barrel type | Smoothbore, steel |
| Barrel length | 42 cm |
| Magazine capacity | 8 rounds |
| Standard sight | Front sight, rear sight |
| Bullet speed | 170 m/s |
| Fuse | Automatic type |
| Cocking | Trunk fracture |
| Weight | 2800 g |
Cleaning process
Now that we have understood the basic rules of cleaning, let's take a better look at the procedure itself. Rifle maintenance consists of four steps that must be followed in strict sequence. Here's a quick guide:
Step 1 - removing lead plaque
First, we need to get rid of the carbon deposits that formed during the shooting process. To do this, take a brush (plastic or bronze), then immerse it inside the barrel and begin cleaning the rifle with smooth and accelerated movements. This procedure should take at least 5 minutes: if plastic or bronze cannot cope with plaque, then you can use harder metals.
Step 2 - degreasing the barrel
As soon as the carbon deposits are removed, it is necessary to treat the barrel with kerosene or a special chemical liquid that removes oil. To do this, take a piece of rags or puff, moisten it in a chemical composition, string it onto a cleaning rod, and then treat the barrel. As soon as the tip is dry, wet it again and repeat the procedure until there is no oil left in the barrel.
Step 3 – washing and drying
After degreasing the barrel, we will have to get rid of the remaining kerosene. A soap solution or water diluted with detergent (AOS, Fary) is best suited for this purpose. We thoroughly wash the barrel with a cleaning rod and rags, and then place it in a warm place to dry with the muzzle down. If you don’t have time for this, you can use a hairdryer.
Step 4 - Lubrication
Once the barrel is cleaned and completely dry, you can begin the lubrication process. In this case, it is very important to observe moderation, because an excess of oily composition will lead to faster formation of soot. Smoke from the barrel is, of course, very beautiful, but it is harmful to the “health” of the rifle. So don't overdo it, otherwise you'll have to repeat everything.
After this, the rifle is completely ready to fire.
Remember that the life of the weapon directly depends on how well and often you clean and lubricate. No matter how unpretentious a rifle is, everyone needs minimal maintenance.
Cleaning different types of rifles
The most unpretentious rifles in terms of maintenance are gas-cylinder models. Most foreign bodies, as well as metallic dirt, are simply blown out of the barrel at the moment of firing. However, during the cleaning process it is very important to prevent moisture from entering the cylinder, otherwise this will lead to a deterioration in combat performance and a constant process of condensation inside the barrel. The same applies to multi-compression pneumatics with a PCP mechanism.
Rifles that use a coil spring as their main power source need cleaning much more than others. In addition, it is important to regularly lubricate the hammer, bump stop, and the spring itself, since they tend to quickly lose oil. It is best to use a thin brush or piece of rags for this purpose. However, under no circumstances remove old oil with acetone or diesel, as this will trigger the process of decomposition of the metal.
Rifles with a rifled barrel deserve special mention. Many inexperienced gunsmiths say that such pneumatics should not be cleaned with brushes, since pieces of metal can get into the rifling. However, this is a deep misconception, because all burrs are removed during the process of washing the weapon. Of course, there may be exceptions, but they are often associated with cases where the owner does not want to devote enough time to cleaning the rifle.
Analogues and prices
| Model | Short description | price, rub. |
| SPA P10 | This model is pre-pumped (PSP), manufactured using the bull-pup system, the trigger is located in front of the drum and impact piston. This rifle can be classified as an elite class of air guns. It combines high initial bullet speed, accuracy and comfort during shooting. This model has a high-pressure cylinder into which air is pumped. The advantage is that it can be multi-charged; the magazine can be loaded with 13 rounds. The steel barrel has rifling, the speed is up to 305 meters per second. The stock is made of wood and the rubber butt pad ensures comfortable shooting. The main difference between the rifle and the others is its small size: length 79 cm, weight 3700 g. There are no standard sighting rails; the rifle has a Picattini mount for installing optics. Lead cartridges of 4.5 mm caliber are used as bullets; for accurate shots, a weight of 0.58-0.69 g is recommended. Features and characteristics make it possible to use this model both for entertainment and for gaining shooting skills. It should also be noted that the rifle will not require re-preservation. | 47800 |
| Hatsan Flashpup S | The main feature of this pneumatic is the bullpup layout, when the firing control handle is located in front of the magazine. Main advantages: reduced recoil, which negatively affects shooting accuracy, you can increase the barrel length while maintaining the length of the rifle. Stylish design with a comfortable pistol grip, small dimensions (length 64.5 cm), adjustable cheek piece, installation of a Weaver strap for body kit. The 14-round magazine and side cocking make it possible to shoot quickly and comfortably. The maximum pressure is 220 bar, which is enough for 100 shots at a speed of 330 meters per second. As a safety feature, an automatic type fuse is installed to block an accidental shot. | 27700 |
| Walther 1250 Dominator FT | This PSP rifle combines German quality and reasonable price. Unlike many PSP guns, the model already has a gearbox installed, which ensures that all shots are fired at the same initial speed by equalizing the pressure in the storage tank to a constant value, and this has a rather positive effect on the accuracy of fire. With this gun there is no need to make vertical adjustments due to pressure reduction. | 51200 |
How to lubricate an air rifle
Finally, we have come to an analysis of the main question of the article, which will tell you which composition is best to use for lubricating the Hatsan air rifle. Especially for this, we studied information from various gun stores and forums about which oil is most popular among Turkish gun owners. We place the result in a small TOP with a brief description of each oil model:
- Balistol gun oil in spray form. A very popular and versatile gun oil, which comes in the form of a spray, which greatly facilitates the lubrication process. For a bottle with a capacity of 50 milliliters you will have to pay only 230 rubles, which is very cheap, especially for such high-quality products. In addition, this oil can be found in any gun store, as it is in great demand.
- Gun oil SBH. High-quality Russian oil, which is suitable for lubricating both smooth-bore and rifled weapons. It owes its popularity to its low price - only 210 rubles for 50 milliliters, as well as its availability - it is sold almost everywhere. Available in a plastic bottle or spray form. Can be used to lubricate the barrel or small parts of a rifle.
- Brunox Gun. Very economical and quite good oil from a German manufacturer. Supplied in the form of a plastic jar with a round lid, volume 100 milliliters and costing 350 rubles. It is manufactured in accordance with international quality standards, so a rifle lubricated with this oil can be safely used in almost any weather conditions.
- Balistol Silicon. Another product from the mentioned company, which is very useful for lubricating small parts of weapons (trigger mechanism, Blowback, bolt frame, and so on). It lasts quite a long time, so there is no need for regular maintenance of the rifle. It comes in the form of a 65 milliliter spray and costs around 280 rubles.
- Brunox Lub&Cor. Not only oil, but also a special chemical composition that protects the barrel from corrosion. The cost of a 100-milliliter bottle is 420 rubles, but most owners of the Hatsan rifle claim that it is worth it. The composition not only prevents the appearance of corrosion, but also fights well against already formed rust. Suitable for indoor and outdoor maintenance.
And these are just the 5 best oils that are well suited for lubricating Hatsan air rifles.
It cannot be said that formulations from other manufacturers are much worse than these, however, the above-mentioned models not only have high quality, but also have a positive effect on the ballistic characteristics of Turkish rifles.
Washing bullets
The service life of the weapon and the accuracy of the battle are also affected by the quality of the ballistic projectile used for firing. In order for the bullet to have a minimum negative impact on the barrel and lubrication at the moment of firing, you will need to use high-quality bullets. However, buying expensive foreign ammunition can be too expensive. Therefore, we recommend purchasing our domestic bullets, loved by many pneumatic gun owners for cheap, but at the same time washing them before use:
- Pour the entire box of bullets into a glass or plastic container and fill them with kerosene or diesel fuel. We leave them in this position for half an hour so that all the leaded deposits formed during the manufacturing and storage process are completely removed.
- We drain the oil products (reusing kerosene is not recommended), and then dry the bullets in the sun or in a warm room. If time is precious, then just as in the case of a rifle, we use a hairdryer.
- Place the bullets in a clean container and fill them with hot water. Add a small amount of dishwashing detergent or laundry soap. We thoroughly wash the bullets, stirring them in the solution by hand.
- We pour the soap solution into the sink, and place the bullets in an even layer on newspaper to dry naturally. After a few hours, the cartridges can be loaded into a clean, oiled rifle.
Clean bullets not only do not stick to your hands and do not leave a black residue, but also practically do not provoke the appearance of soot at the moment of firing. Thanks to this, the need for frequent maintenance of the rifle disappears, and its service life increases significantly.
Is it worth cleaning imported bullets? In fact, this procedure will never be superfluous. However, this only applies to simple ammunition, without any internal fillers or tips.
Crocodile design
A bullpup is a shortened rifle where the trigger mechanism is located behind the handle, usually in the butt. The MP-514K pneumatic is a full-fledged bullpup - since the trigger mechanism is located in front of the handle. But still, the clip, the bullet chambering system and other components are located inside the butt.
The Krokodil stock is made of a plastic composite, butt-shaped, made of two halves. One of the halves is attached to the cylinder and to the second half. As a result, to remove the stock, you will need to unscrew 9 bolts (on conventional pneumatics no more than 5). The center of gravity has been moved to the rear and located behind the handle.
The barrel is steel, has six grooves. A muzzle is installed, the main task of which is to increase the leverage during cocking of the gun.
When disassembled, a strong similarity of all mechanisms borrowed from the MP-512 model is noticeable. The compressor is located under the barrel (this technology is called compound). The main advantage of this arrangement is its compactness.
Due to the parallel mounted cylinder and barrel, to cock the gun you need to grab it by the front of the stock and the muzzle, then move it apart. The rifle opens like the mouth of a crocodile (probably where the nickname comes from). At the same time, considerable effort must be made to cock the spring, especially after replacing the spring with a gas one.
In this case, the “ratchet” is especially useful, which prevents failure during the cocking process. With its help, in the middle of the cocking stage, you can reduce the force, and the gun will not close, but will be in a half-cocked state.
The model has a very strong recoil, since during a shot the piston moves into the shooter’s shoulder, this causes a serious blow, which negatively affects the accuracy of fire.
Multiple charges are achieved thanks to a clip-drum for 8 rounds, or a magazine for copper-plated explosive balls (for 10 bullets). To use steel balls, it is best to install a magnetized rammer (factory non-magnetized).
The 8-round drum is made of plastic and resembles the MP-651K clip. In the “Crocodile” it is installed almost near the end of the butt and is held in place by a spring-loaded axle. It is pulled back by pressing a button located behind the clip, then the drum simply falls when the gun is tilted to the side.
The clip for copper-plated explosive balls is a linear magazine where the bullets move in a circle under the influence of a spring feeder.
The trigger mechanism consists of: a sear with a hook that holds the piston, a trigger and a spring. The safety resembles a trigger, but turned in the opposite direction. It does not have clear positions, that is, there is no click, unlike the MP-512 model. To fully understand whether the gun will fire now, the safety must be set to its extreme position.
The standard sight is an adjustable rear sight and a non-adjustable front sight. The latter is located separately from the muzzle. That is, you can easily replace the muzzle with a sound moderator without worrying about the front sight.
The connector for mounting an optical sight is a Weaver-Picattini rail. It is made as part of the body, that is, from a plastic composite, and not from weapons-grade steel.
Cleaning accessories
Now let's take a closer look at what accessories exist for cleaning an air rifle and in what case it is best to use them. This information will be of interest mainly to novice gunsmiths, since it is based on the basic theory:
- Ramrod. It can be folding (consists of several small parts) or solid. It is preferable to use the second option, but it is not always possible to select a tool for the size of the barrel. The cleaning rod is designed to lubricate the rifle, as well as remove liquid after washing - place a powder puff on the tip and thoroughly wipe the barrel.
- Cleaners. Classic metal part for cleaning hard-to-reach places. However, a gun brush has stiffer tips. The softest of them is nylon (useful for easy cleaning of the barrel after one-time use of the rifle). Hard – brass (designed to remove lead carbon deposits).
- Rags, down puff or thin cotton fabric. Used as a tip on a cleaning rod and intended for applying kerosene, oily composition or removing water after the cleaning procedure. There is also a special attachment for the cleaning rod - a visher, however this option is more expensive and not very economical.
- Kerosene, gasoline or alkaline chemical. Required to remove residual old oil from the barrel. If you apply a new composition to an existing one, this will only lead to contamination. It is best to purchase a special liquid that is sold in gun stores. However, if this is not possible, then the composition from the gas station will do.
This is a basic that should be in the arsenal of any respectable airgun enthusiast. Having these tools, servicing your rifle will not be difficult. Of course, you can buy more expensive cleaning kits, but such “toys” are suitable for professional hunters or owners of expensive weapons that require special care. Hatsan owners can get by with the above tools.
As you can see, cleaning and lubricating the Hatsan air rifle is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. It’s enough just to acquire the appropriate tools and consumables, as well as follow certain algorithms of action. If you love your gun and devote enough time to it, it will serve you for a very long time. The most important thing is to remember about moderation and regularity.
