Signs of timing chain stretching ZMZ 406

Tags: timing belt, jumps, chain

Comments 33

Change the shoe to a star and pull it one at a time in place with the chain and you will be happy!
change the chain and check the tensioner, guide and shoes.

More like a chain. I had some jumps. There was a chain stretched there. There is no connection with the launch. I just drove 300 meters and jumped. The car stalled.

From experience, when the tensioners are not working, a jump occurs at startup. If the engine starts, it will work. I encountered similar symptoms when a piece of the lower stabilizer got stuck in a large shaft star. At idle, the engine worked, but when the gas was released, the chain jumped, the phases naturally ran away.

Thank you. Helpful information.

It also happens that the star wears out and the chain slips. In general, change the timing drive and that’s it

The weakest point is the hydraulic tensioner. Or perhaps there is low pressure in general or specifically on the head, perhaps the channel supplying oil to the hydraulic tensioner is clogged with something. And sometimes the fastening became loose.

It turns out that if the oil pressure is weak, the hydraulic tensioner does not work normally. And perhaps this is why the chain jumps?

It can skip. But at the same time there will be a strong clatter from the front of the engine. Also, the guide itself may not work correctly. Or better yet, a screw mechanical tensioner!

It turns out that if the oil pressure is weak, the hydraulic tensioner does not work normally. And perhaps this is why the chain jumps?

Exactly. It happens that the chain jumps at low pressure precisely when you over-throttle, when you release the gas. by inertia. Also, these engines really don’t like it when you rotate it in the opposite direction. For example, if you pushed back while the speed was on, or you stalled and rolled back down the hill, but you didn’t have time to press the clutch. That's it, the chain jumps, even if everything is in order.

It's even worse there. The camshaft beds won. Repair the head. Replacement sprocket chains and tensioners

It is there that the pressure is lost on the beds and does not reach the hydraulic tensioner. For myself, I would change my head for a new one

An empty head costs 20,000. Bed repair around five.

I wonder how this repair is done, technology?

I'll tell you on Thursday. I know one thing: they make the size zero

I wonder how this repair is done, technology?

Regarding bed repairs. The size is brought to standard by grinding in the contact area of the yoke with the contact area. Then the hole is adjusted to the size of the shaft on the machine. The photo shows that it was not possible to restore it to perfection.

I’ll ask about the point of giving such speeds at xx tomorrow.

if people want it, let it give it 6000 rpm at xx. everything works in normal modes

It's clear. If the timing belt is faulty, then both 2t and 3t will be understandable.

Have the chains been changed recently?

I also asked him this question, he says 15,000 thousand ago. That's why I asked the question here. If the chains are really 15 years old then they are unlikely to stretch

so take it apart and have a look. sprocket chain and tensioner. what else could there be?

It also happens that a sprocket on the crankshaft is worn out, especially if the sprockets are Euro 3, they have thin teeth.

Well, three euros is unlikely. '99

The timing chains have most likely been replaced. ... Check that the lower hydraulic chain tensioner has hit the thrust pad of the lower chain tensioner. If you “missed”, then the chain is not tensioned and has the opportunity to jump on the crankshaft sprocket.

I'll check. But from the words of a person. The lower chain is normal. When the mark is placed on the crankshaft pulley, the TDC of the first cylinder coincides. If the lower chain jumps, then the VMT and the kV mark will not coincide.

Why would this happen all of a sudden?

Do you want to say that when the lower chain jumps, the TDC and the HF mark will coincide?

The mark on the pulley may not coincide with TDC only in two cases. Crankshaft failure and damper rotation on the pulley.

Sorry. I'm confused myself.

When you open the valve cover and swing the camshafts left and right with a 27 key, then by the run of the intermediate block gear it will become clear whether the tension of the lower chain is sufficient or not.

Tags V.M.T. On the crankshaft pulley and the front cover, the chains are located outside. Position of the chain relative to the crankshaft sprocket for alignment of the T.M.T. marks. does not affect.

The condition of the crankshaft sprocket teeth and the lower chain tensioner can be seen when the oil pan is removed.

Source

The timing chain on the 406 engine broke.

Posts: 15
From: Krasnoyarsk region. Norilsk
GAZ 3110 Volga

14 August 2021, 20:26 #1 123

Can you please tell me if the timing chain on a 406 engine breaks, does the valve bend? Or you'll be lucky and won't have to remove the head. Maybe someone had this?

Posts: 21843
From: Voronezh province
Daewoo Nexia

14 August 2021, 20:32 #2 123

Babanin Dima, 14 August 2021, 20:26, #1

Can you please tell me if the timing chain on a 406 engine breaks, does the valve bend? Or you'll be lucky and won't have to remove the head. Maybe someone had this?

Do the valves bend when the timing chain on the 4062 engine breaks?

But! under a certain set of circumstances (high speeds, coked bushings and, as a result, hanging valves, installation of tuned shafts), the valves may still meet the piston. there are examples.

Posts: 4842
From: Eastern region of Voronezh region

14 August 2021, 20:41 #3 123

I got cut off once / due to lack of experience /. The result is that both camshafts are broken, the ejection head is very badly crumpled on the first journals when the camshafts are broken. The front cover was thrown away, smashed to pieces. Four valves were wrapped. And the reason for all this is poor quality ZIK oil (in my case), which formed a layer of salidol on the pan and blocked the oil’s access to the hydraulic tensioner.

Posts: 21843
From: Voronezh province
Daewoo Nexia

14 August 2021, 20:46 #4 123

ajirkov36, August 14, 2021, 20:41, #3

Andrey, you should have had pistons with recesses or am I wrong.

Posts: 4842
From: Eastern region of Voronezh region

14 August 2021, 20:56 #5 123

Felix, 14 August 2021, 20:46, #4

Andrey, you should have had pistons with recesses or am I wrong.

Posts: 1169
VAZ 2109 Lada Granta Sedan

14 August 2021, 21:35 #6 123

On the 406 engine the valves bend.

Posts: 21843
From: Voronezh province
Daewoo Nexia

14 August 2021, 21:39 #7 123

Slow, 14 August 2021, 21:35, #6

On the 406 engine the valves bend.

On the first editions there were straight pistons, yes, but on later ones they began to install pistons with recesses there. How is this possible, or am I wrong?

Posts: 4842
From: Eastern region of Voronezh region

14 August 2021, 21:47 #8 123

Sasha, the recess on the piston ensures the safety of the valve only when the timing marks are shifted by several teeth, and then it bends.

Posts: 11334
From: VRN
Lada Vesta MTZ-1221

August 14, 2021, 11:10 pm #9 123

There were so many with cliffs - I didn’t see any of them that were bent.

Posts: 15
From: Krasnoyarsk region. Norilsk
GAZ 3110 Volga

15 August 2021, 14:29 #10 123

I bought the engine second hand and it was also filled with Zik oil. The engine seized at low speed. The top tensioner spilled, the top chain broke and the front cover burst.

Posts: 4842
From: Eastern region of Voronezh region

15 August 2021, 16:09 #11 123

Babanin Dima, 15 August 2021, 14:29, #10

I bought the engine second hand and it was also filled with Zik oil. The engine seized at low speed. The top tensioner spilled, the top chain broke and the front cover burst.

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It may not bend the valves at low speeds. The cause of your breakdown is the hydraulic tensioner. But why it failed, we need to figure it out.

Posts: 15
From: Krasnoyarsk region. Norilsk
GAZ 3110 Volga

15 August 2021, 17:07 #12 123

When I opened the engine, the hydraulic tensioner was scattered. What are the possible options for a hydraulic tensioner failure?

Posts: 4842
From: Eastern region of Voronezh region

15 August 2021, 18:51 #13 123+ 1

First, there is a lack of oil on the hydraulic tensioner / there are many reasons for the lack of oil /. And the second and most common is the pressing of the hydraulic tensioner by crooked craftsmen. That is, when you install the hydraulic tensioner, after installation you need to unscrew the end cover of it, insert something like a screwdriver into it and lightly hit it with a hammer. You will feel the tensioner warm up to its working position. If for some reason you have to remove the hydraulic tensioner, then before installing it you must first press it into its original position, and then, after installation, press it using a screwdriver and hammer. I never press it in, but always install a new one / considering how much trouble it brings /. And one new one is always in stock. As soon as it rattles, I’ll bet it. Although this is a problem with the first generation of tensioners. Modern ones, as a rule, do not break. Now there is a huge selection of kits/chains, tension gears, sprockets, dampers, hydraulic tensioners. Take the complete set.

Posts: 11334
From: VRN
Lada Vesta MTZ-1221

15 August 2021, 21:40 #14 123

No, the timing drive fails not at all because of oil.

the first and most common is mileage, here, as with a belt, the resource is limited, for a good timing belt, especially chains, 120-150 thousand and needs to be changed

second, less common, premature failure of the tensioner, dampers, etc.

Well, as Andrey pointed out, if the tensioner is not installed correctly, but here the “result” is immediately visible.

Posts: 9844

16 August 2021, 02:04 #15 123

This is how Andrey Adzhirkov told it - it was the same thing Although - changed it in advance - bought imported super-duper - grinding with replacement - the whole engine

Posts: 15
From: Krasnoyarsk region. Norilsk
GAZ 3110 Volga

17 August 2021, 14:13 #16 123

I ran into another problem. I have very strong carbon deposits on the engine walls. What is the most effective way to get rid of it?

Posts: 4842
From: Eastern region of Voronezh region

17 August 2021, 21:43 #17 123

Babanin Dima, 17 August 2021, 14:13, #16

I ran into another problem. I have very strong carbon deposits on the engine walls. What is the most effective way to get rid of it?

You mean on the walls of the engine? Where is the crankshaft on the liners or inside the block?

Posts: 15
From: Krasnoyarsk region. Norilsk
GAZ 3110 Volga

18 August 2021, 02:43 #18 123

Soot from horseradish oil. In the timing compartment, under the valve covers. I haven't completely figured out the engine. Yesterday I spent the whole evening using gasoline, a brush and a knife to get rid of carbon deposits. What about oil conals? I definitely won’t get it there. And I’m more than sure that flushing oil won’t help me either. Please tell me what to do.

Posts: 9844

18 August 2021, 07:18 #19 123

It’s better not to wipe off carbon deposits with gasoline, but with a solvent. Any kind of 676 or other smelly one - like acetone. And the channels - if the engine is not disassembled - you can’t even blow it out with air. Fill in normal oil - and you’re on your way.

Posts: 1

March 21, 2021, 10:46 pm #20 123

Can you tell me how to check whether it’s bent or lucky?

Posts: 21843
From: Voronezh province
Daewoo Nexia

March 22, 2021, 06:48 #21 123

AFONYA, March 21, 2021, 22:46, #20

Can you tell me how to check whether it’s bent or lucky?

Turn the key manually, it doesn’t hit or catch, then check the compression. You’ll understand everything yourself.

Posts: 14105
ZAZ 965

March 22, 2021, 09:16 #22 123

Flying, 14 August 2021, 23:10, #9

There were so many with cliffs - I didn’t see any of them that were bent.

That’s what I’m talking about - there’s already a bag of chains and another bag of front covers, and only one head, and then, not because of bent valves, but because of a broken ditch bed, which has nothing to do with a broken chain, you change the set and drove on. I put the kits as a favorite, perfect phase - they go with a bang

Posts: 3627

22 March 2021, 13:02 #23 123

One person I don’t know very well installed a Toyota internal combustion engine on a gazelle, and for several years now it’s been running great, no problems, farts, twitches, etc., etc.

Babanin Dima, 17 August 2021, 14:13, #16

Communities › GAZ Volga › Blog › Timing gear ZMZ 406

Comments 35

I can also say that on none of the Volga cars that I have done, the mark on the crankshaft pulley (TDC) is not positioned correctly!

But how do you know how it should stand correctly?

unscrew the spark plug of the first cylinder and put something long in there. By turning the crankshaft you will see where the piston is actually at the top. This is the simplest way

thanks) I'll check it

It’s better to change by removing the head, but without removing the pan. When you remove the chains and sprockets, go straight to the store with them and buy exactly the same ones. It’s just that the chains are shorter and longer. Your sprockets should be normal. If you have the money, buy new hydraulic tensioners. sealant and a torque wrench. Look for a video on YouTube. ICE theory, there is also a Belarusian guy who talks and shows well

The theory of internal combustion engines is a Ukrainian man =) His name is Evgeniy Travnikov. He tells and shows competently, but it’s very boring =)

I know Travnikov. There are also videos in which a guy from Belarus explains well how to set the timing belt

I completely agree that's how it is

It is advisable to change everything as a set, you will have to remove the front cover, for this you at least need to unscrew the pan, I did this several times, removed the radio to avoid getting in the way, then when installing, spread sealant on the gasket that is under the head (part of it goes to the timing belt)

I changed the chain at 300-odd thousand miles. And this is because the hydraulic tensioner was overlooked and it jammed and began to wear out. By the sound you can immediately hear how it begins to strum. And if you change the chain, then all the sprockets, regardless of wear

Communities › GAZ Volga › Blog › How to recognize a faulty ZMZ 406 tensioner

Comments 13

Have you already removed the lower hydraulic tensioner from the engine?

We have already found out that the chains are still stretched

I was told? What kind of argument is this?

Where is the photo of the tensioner at work?

The tension of the chain is determined by the output of the tensioner piston; the working stroke is about 1 cm. Everything else works like a damper.

You're annoying with your questions, honestly! What timing belt, what camshafts, what chains, sell it and don’t suffer and don’t bother others! If you had a Lancia, you would go

The original tensioners are eternal, why the hell did you buy it, you need to change the timing chains and shoes, and the rest goes 300,000 km, I was convinced of this myself

It’s very simple, you buy a mechanical tensioner, put it on, if the clanging goes away - it didn’t work, it remains, put the mechanical one down.

It is better to change both tensioners at once, otherwise there will not be the necessary oil pressure for tensioning, and the pressure will escape through the worn tensioner.

if the tensioner fails, you will immediately know the chain will rattle, and you need to know how long it went out; the chains are stretched and the free play itself may be too big; there are a lot of reasons that need to be sorted out, looked at and drawn conclusions

If the tensioner does not work, the engine will work like a diesel locomotive only with the knocking of the drum-drin-drin-drin-

and if the tensioner stroke is large

Another question is whether it works normally, in that regard. how far it flew out and whether it is necessary to put washers under it, well, again, now there are so many defects and fakes that I wouldn’t even be surprised that I could run into it, because nothing has changed, because the tensioner didn’t work and didn’t works

Did you set it and unload it? Well, then no one canceled the stethoscope...

Source

Communities › GAZ Volga › Blog › need help with timing belt ZMZ 406

Comments 30

Guys, please help. Problem: I replaced the chains (72/92) and all the sprockets and sprockets. The lower chain is stuck, but the upper chain has a tension problem; the hydraulic tensioner rests only on the edge of the tensioner shoe. what to do and what is the problem?

If the chain rattles after warming up, then 100% this is low oil pressure, or a bad tensioner installed...

If you haven’t changed the chain, then no matter what you install the tensioner, there will be noise. At 110 it stretches and depends on how you drive. At 150 the marks can move from 2 to 5 degrees. Also, if you haven’t changed the tension stars, then there is a breakdown of both the bearing and the place where the tensioner rests. The timing belt installed the boom completely, but then took adjustable sprockets in progress or in b2motor and there were no problems.

So I want to order everything in progress. And the price is stable and the kit. Is there a lot of hassle when replacing all these things?

Relatively. A lot of. And I’m not very interested in it.

110 and 150 is mileage or speed?

If you take the kit, then the ZMZ GOLDEN SERIES

Definitely NEVER take it! I had it for a week! Then the bottom chain broke!

Hello, a friend had such a gimmick. He bought chains, sprocket tensioners, new ones, we put them on tension, it rattles. We take off the links, count them 72, well, as it should be, everything is top 72 bottom, 92 links, and the tensioner shoots out almost all the way and is about to fly out. In the end, we took the chains back to the store and took them under the shoe. 70/90 were collected and here it is, happiness, silence, count the links and perhaps what is due to them, good luck

I found a set in “Progress Motor”, the whole set and just 72 92 links. So, don’t take it?

What is the mileage and how is the chain, shoe or sprocket tensioned? If it’s shoes, then look at how much they’ve been eaten. If there are decent grooves, don’t bother with tensioners. mechanical or hydraulic, it will still rumble.

The mileage is 110k and the chain is tensioned by the sprockets, but what does this problem mean?

If the chains are untouched from the factory, then they need to be changed once they make noise. It is fraught with a broken chain and can break through the front cover. I just recently changed my timing belt, it rattled at first when it was cold, and then over time it became constant. The hydraulic tensioners couldn’t cope, and my mechanical tensioner simply collapsed on the move, apparently due to the fact that the chain was hanging loosely from being stretched. There were shoes from the factory, the mileage was 64 thousand when I changed them (possibly twisted), the fact is that the shoes were eaten in half and the chain sagged. Now there is a BON star timing kit, chains 72/92 Euro2. It cost me 3200. These are the pies.

The mileage is 110k and the chain is tensioned by the sprockets, but what does this problem mean?

I’ll also add that there are ordinary cheap hydraulic tensioners; we simply didn’t have any others (That’s why I have an ISAI mechanical tensioner in my plans, which I advise you to do if you do it.

I understand everything) I’m reeling off your information) from the bottom of my heart

In general, the whole kit is completely changed and it is also advisable to change the block gasket; I tried it the hard way. Good luck

I recently changed the gasket under the head) thanks for the advice

Source

Where is the chain located

Getting to the timing chain is not so easy. A complete disassembly of the engine will be required. And this is a serious process. If the car owner does not understand the design of the timing belt, it is recommended to contact a service center. Let's take a look at the timing belt layout.

The belt itself is installed on the crankshaft and camshaft. When the pulley rotates, the rotation is then transmitted to the camshafts. And the tension is adjusted thanks to a damper inside the unit.

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If the operation of the damper is disrupted, the device is faulty, then the belt can jump from one to three or four teeth. The operation of the engine will be unstable, and wear on the unit will increase with every kilometer.

How to replace the timing belt Gazelle 405

Replacing the engine will require fairly detailed disassembly of a number of mechanisms. This requires special equipment and skills, so it is not recommended for an inexperienced mechanic to carry out this procedure in a garage - it is better to contact a service center where qualified craftsmen work. Moreover, if you miss any small detail, you can cause serious damage to the engine. At our service center, it usually takes specialists about 5 hours to replace a chain on a Gazelle with engines 405 or 406. Accordingly, independent repairs can take several times longer, because we have several mechanics working at the same time who have already carried out this procedure many times.

After this, the valve cover and the front cylinder head cover are unscrewed. Then you need to unscrew the tensioner bolts, remove the pulleys and perform many other steps. Our specialists are greatly assisted in this by high-quality equipment, which allows them to easily remove and install the necessary parts. In addition, during disassembly the technician may notice some damaged components. In this case, we replace them with new ones (although they may not even be part of the timing mechanism), since this will avoid serious problems with the engine in the future. As a rule, they are deformed due to excessive wear. These can be different gears. For example, it is often possible to identify wear on the large countershaft gear on the engine side. It is not necessary to change it - just level the surface with a grinder.

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When replacing, the correct alignment of the intake and exhaust shafts is carried out, the installation angle of which must correspond to 22 and 17 degrees, respectively. Special equipment allows you to accurately determine this value. Our craftsmen also make sure that the chain is tensioned and firmly fixed. In this case, it will easily work out its entire resource without causing any problems. Finally, to ensure that all work is completed successfully, we always check how well the motor is working. It should not emit extraneous noise or vibrations, the speed should be stable. If it functions in the same way as the unit on a new machine from the factory, it means that we were able to do the job efficiently, and the client will definitely be satisfied with such service.

extraneous noise from the engine compartment at idle or when releasing the gas (often, it disappears when the speed increases);
uneven engine operation (the car accelerates not smoothly, but intermittently, or the speed “floats”);
insufficient engine power;
problems starting the engine;
increased fuel consumption.

Signs of breakdown of the gas distribution mechanism

Symptoms of a ZMZ timing belt failure include noise during idle speed. Fuel consumption increases. The timing system is not stable. Popping noises appear in the intake and exhaust manifolds. Beginners will ask the question: “Why is this happening? What can I do to optimize fuel consumption and get rid of noise?

If the thermal clearances of the ZMZ do not correspond to the norm in a certain phase, then the valves will not open and close when necessary. In this case, the hydraulic compensators break. Overheating negatively affects chains and gear teeth. Metal cracks, bursts and breaks.

If there are cracks and chips on the timing chain body, then only replacing the timing chain will help.

What is needed for replacement

Replacing a chain is a complex process that requires preliminary preparation. You must purchase the following list in advance:

After replacing the chain, you need to fill in fresh oil (the filter is also changed with it). The valve cover has a “habit” of constantly leaking. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase it in advance and replace it along with the chain. Cork is the best option. Thanks to high natural adhesion and elasticity, high tightness is created.

The keys you will need are: a set of sockets and open-ends, reinforced by 36, a hexagon by 6. An equally important point is a lot of rags. Most engines squeeze oil out through the oil seals as well as the valve cover. A good solution is to immediately purchase a set of parts to replace the timing chain. It is identical for engines marked 405, 406, 409.

Such a kit usually includes the following main components:

It wouldn't hurt to purchase a driven sprocket.

Replacing the timing chain of a gazelle 405 engine

The timing mechanism on the Gazelle is always subject to high loads. This is why it wears out naturally over time. The timing drive has the following components:

2 double-row chains;
2 tensioner rollers;
set of stars

All these parts must be purchased to replace the chain, since it is much better to replace the main components with new ones so that the repair is not in vain, and the new chain works as expected without any problems. In addition, they work in conjunction, so each spare part bears approximately the same load, which causes a certain amount of wear. Gazelle owners often contact us, so we always have these parts in stock, especially since they are part of every repair kit.

The fact is that it is considered the main component. At the same time, an old, worn chain may simply break, which will lead to a lot of trouble with the motor. Usually a rupture results in the front engine cover having to be replaced. Additionally, a broken chain can also damage other engine components.

In most cases, replacing the timing chain of a Gazelle 405 engine is needed every 100-150 thousand kilometers, depending on operating conditions. Although we are often approached by clients who have traveled a much greater distance. It is important to note here that highway mileage really allows you to not change the chain so often, but with replacement intervals of over 150 thousand, the driver takes a lot of risk, and this risk cannot be called justified. During city driving, more frequent replacement may be required, even with a mileage of less than 100 thousand kilometers. At our service, you can undergo diagnostics, which will allow you to accurately determine whether the chain requires replacement, or whether it can still serve for some time.

Procedure for replacing timing chain ZMZ 406

To change the ZMZ timing chain with your own hands, you will need tools and materials purchased in a specialized store. And position the vehicle to allow you to approach the hood from both the front and the side.

You'll have to disassemble the engine. Therefore, the car owner wears a robe and gloves.

Tools for replacing timing chain

What tools will you need to change the timing chain at ZMZ:

All timing joints covered with corrosion or dust or dirt should be treated with WD 40 and left for about five minutes so that the solution penetrates into the metal. Then it will be easier for the car owner to unscrew the bolts.

The car owner will need to buy the following materials:

The purchase of these timing components is mandatory, since the old ones will be removed by the car owner when disassembling the engine.

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Draining antifreeze from the system

Now you need to drain the coolant. To drain, you need to take the following steps:

About 10 liters will spill out. After the hole becomes dry, you can proceed to the initial stage of disassembling the ZMZ 406.

Attention! If you unscrew the plug, a large pressure of liquid will flow out. Therefore, the container must be deep so as not to lose part of the ZMZ 406 antifreeze in the splashes. And, if the car owner wants things to go faster, he can unscrew the cap in the expansion tank.

Initial disassembly stage

Now the car owner can proceed to the initial stage. These actions are performed before setting the mark on the ZMZ motor.

Now you need to proceed to the next procedure for final disassembly of the timing chain.

Final removal of the drive chain

To completely remove the ZMZ timing chain, the car owner will need to take the following steps:

Gear number 2 can only be removed using a puller.

Carrying out the assembly

When the timing belt is removed, you need to wash it. After removing carbon deposits and dirt, it is necessary to inspect the timing device ZMZ 406. Measure the belt. Must be no longer than its size. If its size is 2 cm larger, then the mechanism should be replaced with a new one.

The timing belt should not have any cracks, chips, or dents. After inspecting the chain, the car owner must inspect the following components:

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Attention! When overhauling the ZMZ engine, it is necessary to install marks. Such procedures increase engine life and power.

After changing the chain, before starting assembly, you must do the following:

When tightening, the car owner must use a torque wrench. When tightening without its help, problems may arise when operating the ZMZ engine. The force applied to the tightening should be 222.5 Nm.

Now you need to bend the locking plate. Press the tensioner lever to check whether the marks match or not. Now you will need to screw in the damper mounting bolts and lubricate the upper part of the mechanism with lubricant.

Timing chain ZMZ-405: do-it-yourself replacement

First, remove the engine protection and mudguard. Drain the antifreeze and oil from the engine. Remove the upper radiator pipe.

Disconnect all interfering pipes.

We remove the wiring harness to the side. We remember or sketch the location of the connectors on the ignition coils.

Using a 12mm socket, unscrew the eight bolts in a circle holding the valve cover and remove the last one.

While the service belt is tense, loosen the three bolts on the 10th pump pulley.

We loosen the bolt by 12, the tension roller and unscrewing the bolt by 10, we loosen the tension of the auxiliary belt.

Remove the service belt, roller and coolant pump pulley.

Unscrew the four screws of the upper timing case cover and remove it.

We remove the generator along with the triangular plate.

Unscrew bolt 10 of the crankshaft position sensor.

We move the sensor to the side so that it does not interfere. Using a 36mm socket, use the pulley bolt to turn the crankshaft clockwise until the marks on the camshafts point to top dead center.

The mark on the intake camshaft should be level with the top edge of the cylinder head.

Likewise for the exhaust camshaft.

We unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt, having previously locked the crankshaft. To do this, the assistant in the cabin engages fifth gear and presses on the brake with all his might, while we, with a slight movement of the hand, using a meter-long pipe and a 36mm socket, unscrew the bolt. We remove the crankshaft pulley, you will have to suffer because it sits tightly on the shaft. Loosen the clamps of the pump pipes.

Use a 6mm hex to unscrew the four screws on the front side of the pump and a 12mm wrench to one on the back side and remove the coolant pump.

Unscrew the two bolts of the upper hydraulic tensioner cover. Since the tensioner in a discharged state will put pressure on the cover, we hold it so that it does not jump out.

Remove the cover and the hydraulic tensioner itself.

Same with the bottom one.

__________________ If one person assembles it, another can always take it apart.

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Step-by-step process for replacing chains and other timing components

The procedure includes the following main steps:

The steps listed above are preparatory steps directly for removing the chain. You will need to disassemble the gas distribution mechanism drive and remove the cylinder head:

The last stage of removing the old chain is to unscrew a pair of screws using a 6-point hexagon and remove the lower chain guide. Assembly must be performed in strictly reverse order. It is necessary to correctly align the timing marks. It is necessary to photograph the drawing in advance. Or carefully study the video on assembly and disassembly.

The chain replacement process can take varying amounts of time. It all depends on the qualifications of the master and the condition of the engine. It is advisable to prepare everything you need in advance - this will significantly speed up the process.

Can the timing belt jump?

In internal combustion engines, a malfunction occurs when the timing belt teeth or chain links jump to one or more positions. In such a situation, the parameters of the power unit change significantly.

This can lead to serious consequences. How to determine the presence of such a malfunction, how to prevent it, what to do to fix the problem?

Causes of belt and timing chain jumping

The main reasons for timing belt skipping are:

Jumping of chain links (links) is less likely, but the consequences of such a malfunction are more serious. Causes of chain jumping:

Symptoms of malfunction

The main signs that the belt or chain has slipped:

If such signs appear, you should stop driving (start the engine), have the engine diagnosed, or contact a mechanic.

Possible consequences

The consequences of skipping belt teeth or chain links can be:

Replacing the timing chain of a gazelle 405 engine

The timing chain is the main component of the entire gas distribution mechanism. It is needed in order to synchronize the camshaft and crankshaft of the engine, transmitting torque to it. The engines that are most often installed in Gazelle (these are the ZMZ-405 and ZMZ-406 engines in various modifications) use chain synchronization rather than belt synchronization. This solution is more reliable, since the chain needs to be changed less frequently, and the likelihood of mechanical damage during operation is much less.