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Replacing an engine with a unit from Priora (VAZ-2170) is not a difficult procedure, because the installation is similar to installing an engine 2112 or 21124 and takes place without significant differences. Replacement is possible on all cars of the Lada Samara-2 family, but in the article we will consider case 2114.

So, the progress of work on changing the VAZ-2114 engine with your own hands:

First of all, you need to install the receiver (not an easy task, I tell you),

We also extend the wires to the phase sensor,

You need to pull out the wire from the pigtail to the oil pressure sensor, the rest is fine.

The ECU can be left stock.

Unfortunately, the systems are completely different.

If you have the financial opportunity, you need to replace the radiator with a 2112 (slightly changing the seat, since the 12th one is slightly wider). As a last resort, you can leave the “native” one.

The thermostat fits the factory one (where the heater connects directly to it, and not to the reservoir hose). Imported analogues are no different. Depending on the old thermostat, it may be necessary to replace the hoses on the radiator (the upper one comes from 2112, the lower one from Kalina),

The cooling fan does not fit and touches the receiver; installing a fan from the Niva (which has two impellers on the outside) saves the day. But in this case it is necessary to install an intermediate relay (since the safety block does not pull). If you can figure out how to do it differently, write to us and we’ll discuss it.

In general, with this design of the system, everything is in order with cooling, but it is still better to replace the radiator with a 2112.

The generator with a standard belt fits well on the bracket from 2114.

The original ECU is capable of starting the engine without flashing it.(!) So you can get to the mechanic on your own. Sometimes it stalls, the consumption is high, but it still drives not bad.

If desired, install an additional (fourth) engine mount. It's not expensive, but it's a cool thing.

That's all, tuning the VAZ-2114 by changing the engine is over. Have a nice ride!

Many owners of domestic cars are thinking about modifying their “iron horses”. Considering that more modern models are equipped with injectors, it is possible to install a 16-valve power unit on them. The Niva-Chevrolet with an engine from the Priora, as well as classic VAZ models with a similar modified engine, are widely popular.

Features of installation of the power unit

Installing a Priora engine on a Niva-Chevrolet or VAZ 2107 will take one or two days from a specialist. But first you should devote a lot of time and money to preparatory work. First you need to buy the engine itself. If you purchased a used motor, you need to rebuild it, which will further extend its service life.

Another advantage of disassembling and inspecting the unit is the ease of installation of transition elements, especially if the parts for the Chevrolet Niva with the Priora engine were made by hand. It is better to carry out manipulations with a screwed oil pan, which will also require modification.

Installation features

As a rule, for a professional, such work can take a day, maximum two, if all the necessary components are available. Often, drivers choose a motor for installation that has been in use for some time. In this case, it is necessary to approach its purchase extremely responsibly. Such an engine is rebuilt and all its components are checked, since in the future this will affect the functions immediately after its installation in the car.

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Start of preparatory work

Preparations for installation should begin by dismantling the flywheel of the new power unit. Its teeth will be incorrectly positioned in relation to the starter gear. It is necessary to purchase a suitable crown and place it on the flywheel.

It must be taken into account that the Chevrolet Niva with the Priora engine is modified only in the engine part. The gearbox remains unchanged, so care should be taken to ensure reliable and correct joining of these two blocks. It is optimal to carry out this operation using a special adapter plate. You can buy a ready-made element or make it to order. An alternative to connecting the gearbox and engine would be to fix the engine cylinder block directly to the gearbox. In this case, only three mounting bolts will be involved. Many car enthusiasts who have tested this in practice claim that the clutch is quite reliable.

What diesel engines did AvtoVAZ install on the Lada 4×4?

Diesel engines for Niva cars have a number of advantages. Experienced mechanics installed diesel internal combustion engines from other cars that were suitable in size and looked at what advantages the car received from them.

The best and most popular Niva engines were:

1. Peugeot XUD-9SD (1.9 l, about seventy horses). It was installed with a Fiat Polonez gearbox.
2. Peugeot XUD 11 with Fiat Polonez gearbox.
3. Toyota 3C (79 horses) or 3ST (100 horses). This internal combustion engine was installed on a Niva with a gearbox from a Toyota Noah vehicle.
4. The engine is from the German workhorse Volkswagen Vento.

Only one motor required minimal modifications. It was the XUD-9SD. This engine had a well-placed oil intake and oil filter device. And also the mountings for the internal combustion engine were located exactly at the points where the old gasoline power unit was attached.

However, it was considered heavy for such a machine. Therefore, many craftsmen ignored the Peugeot engine. Many are trying to install the VAZ 341. However, there are dark rumors about this engine. For example, those craftsmen who finally installed this engine on a car then spit because they constantly have to modify or change something. Either the cylinder head breaks, or the liners have to be changed, and much more similar to these breakdowns. Although the engine itself runs smoothly without any complaints.

"Niva-Chevrolet" with an engine from "Priora": the main stage of preparatory work

The updated engine will be slightly moved towards the cabin. To install it correctly, it is necessary to cut out a part of the metal partition separating the engine unit and the interior of the car. It is recommended to carry out the manipulation carefully so as not to cut out the excess part, since the element being processed ensures the rigidity of the body. Alternatively, you can use a grinder saw if you have the appropriate experience.

The end part of the crankshaft of the newly installed engine will require the installation of a VAZ-2107 and with an engine from Priora the element will need to be adjusted. Any turner will help you cope with this problem; the work will not take much time. Adapters with holes should be prepared for the motor mounting pads.

"Niva-Chevrolet" with an engine from "Priora": description, features, advantages and reviews

16V from 21124 To Chevrolet Niva (chevrolet niva)

The gearbox remains unchanged, so care should be taken to ensure reliable and correct joining of these two blocks. We chop the pallet with a grinder and cook a cavity for the engine from a Chevrolet Niva Priora. For those who do not want to invest in tuning an old VAZ engine, there are many interesting options, and one of them is installing an engine from Priora, meaning, of course, a 1.6-liter valve engine with a capacity of 98 hp.

Now about the swap in the Chevrolet Niva. Then the concept changed and I decided to move away from the disadvantages of the previous one...

The engine mounting brackets are unchanged except for re-drilling from 8mm to 10mm. For a professional repairman, this process rarely takes more than one day.

Since our engine has moved upward by 6 cm relative to the beam and forward by 3. An increase in maximum speed will most likely happen, but you shouldn’t delude yourself. In this case, only three mounting bolts will be involved.

We chop the pallet with a grinder and cook the cavity for the gearbox.

The engine mounting brackets are unchanged except for re-drilling from 8mm to 10mm. Under the release we sharpen a spacer-ring 10 mm high.

Nuances when installing an engine from Priora to Niva

Too much lathe and the need to disassemble the engine to remove the crankshaft. Problems with cooling the 4th pot because the main circle is along the front of the engine.

Smaller volume of oil in the pan due to its shredding. Here the concept changed and I decided to get away from the disadvantages of the previous version and for the most part it was successful. Also the Prior donor.

Too much lathe and the need to disassemble the engine to remove the crankshaft. Problems with cooling the 4th pot because the main circle is along the front of the engine. Smaller volume of oil in the pan due to its shredding. Here the concept changed and I decided to get away from the disadvantages of the previous version and for the most part it was successful. Also the Prior donor.

They decided to leave Egaz because of its good operating algorithm, especially at low throttles. In order not to shred the pan, I decided to simply tear the beam from the side members into 6 cm cubes. Thus, we ensure a very significant gap between the pan and the gearbox. In order not to disassemble the engine for grooving the elbow, transition spacers were made between the block and the gearbox. checkpoint thanks to which they also killed a bunch of birds with one stone. Also, the original Shniv clutch with the flywheel was installed without modification and, accordingly, the gearbox is now mounted with 4 bolts. The coolant outlet flange from the cylinder head is welded from an inch pipe and standard bends and is located parallel along the cylinder head and goes to the front end of the engine.

Also embedded into the outlet are fittings for engine temperature sensors. You can buy a ready-made element or make it to order. An alternative to connecting the gearbox and engine would be to fix the engine cylinder block directly to the gearbox.

16V from 21124 To Chevrolet Niva (chevrolet niva)

In this case, only three mounting bolts will be involved. Many car enthusiasts who have tested this in practice claim that the clutch is quite reliable. To install it correctly, it is necessary to cut out a part of the metal partition separating the engine unit and the interior of the car.

Start of preparatory work

It is recommended to carry out the manipulation carefully so as not to cut out the excess part, since the element being processed ensures the rigidity of the body. Alternatively, you can use a grinder saw if you have the appropriate experience.

A support bearing will need to be installed at the end of the crankshaft of the newly installed motor. VAZ and Niva with a Priora engine need to adjust the element. Any turner will help you cope with this problem; the work will not take much time.

Adapters with holes should be prepared for the motor mounting pads. The final stage of preparatory work If the car being modified was equipped with a carburetor system, you should install a remote electric fuel pump, a gas pedal drive with a cable, and a fuel filter.

The final stage of preparatory work

If the car being modified was equipped with a carburetor system, you should install a remote electric fuel pump, a gas pedal drive with a cable, and a fuel filter. A Volga injection element with an injector is quite suitable. You will also need to install a special adapter for the clutch block.

If the car is equipped with a fuel injection system, then installing and connecting the control electronics will not pose any special problems. When installing a VAZ-2112 or Priora engine on a Niva, you will have to spend a lot of time on preparation. However, the subsequent effect and the new “heart” of the iron horse are worth all the effort.

Risks when replacing an engine

Since the new engine is still not original, we have to cut the partition that connects it to the passenger compartment. If this action is going to be carried out by a driver without the appropriate experience, then there is a risk that it will not be possible to cut exactly along the required boundaries. Therefore, it is still advisable to carry out this work directly to qualified specialists who will do this as accurately as possible. As a rule, a grinder is used for this action, so without experience you can make a hole much larger than necessary. To install the engine, other adjustments to the car will be necessary, so you should make changes to the fuel pump, reconfigure the cable that leads to the gas pedal. The quality of work associated with the preparation of all components determines how quickly the engine replacement will be performed and, as a result, the use of this vehicle to perform current tasks.

Installation of the power unit

Having completed all the preparatory work, you can begin installing the motor. For a professional repairman, this process rarely takes more than one day. Personal participation will require more time and effort.

The greatest amount of work will have to be done with the modification of the cooling and exhaust systems. An old manifold from a VAZ of early production will not fit the “Prior” engine, as well as connecting pipes and some elements of the cooling system. It is difficult to purchase the parts in question ready-made, but they can be made to order or using gas welding.

Technical characteristics of the VAZ 2123 engine

The VAZ 2123 power unit has a working volume of 1690 cubic meters. cm. It is naturally aspirated and runs on gasoline fuel. His weight is 127 kilograms. The electronic fuel injection system increased engine power to 80 hp, and the torque is 127 NxM, which becomes available at around 4000 rpm.

On the highway the car can reach a speed of 140 km/h. A five-speed manual gearbox is responsible for shifting gears. Highway consumption does not exceed 8.5 liters per 100 km. In the city it increases to 14 liters per 100 kilometers. In such an engine, for its stable operation and responsive traction, it is recommended to fill AI-95 gasoline.

A timing belt with a hydraulic chain tensioning system requires increased oil pump performance. To increase productivity without increasing power, engineers reduced the number of teeth on the pump drive gear.

Also interesting: What kind of oil to pour into the VAZ 21214 Niva injector engine

To lubricate the engine, 3.5 liters of oil is required. Both synthetic and semi-synthetic oils are suitable. The only thing that requires attention is the viscosity indicator, which must correspond to the 5W30 index. To preserve the life of the Chevrolet Niva engine for many years, it is recommended to change the oil every 10,000 km.

Specifications

Motor specifications:

VAZ 21213 engine is installed on VAZ 21213, 21214, Chevrolet Niva.

New items equipped with the engine in question

Soon, VAZ developers plan to put into mass production the updated Niva, which will be equipped with an engine from the Priora. The new power unit will make it possible to significantly reduce fuel consumption, while increasing the vehicle’s speed performance.

The plant is actively working to adapt the engine to the Niva. The car can be produced in two variations: with a unit with a capacity of 98 horsepower or a modified analogue that pulls 106 horses and has a torque of 148 Nm. In addition to the updated engine, the car in question will receive a new steering rack, subframe, improved seats, heating, and air conditioning will be installed.

Technical characteristics of the latest modifications of the Priora engine

The common model of the engine in question is released under the index 21126. The unit has a displacement of 1.6 liters and a power of 98 horsepower. In 2021, a new modification was released, which is equipped with the VAZ-2107.

For greater clarity, below is a table with technical indicators of the Priora power unit (21127).

Work order

First, all attachments are dismantled - the receiver, exhaust manifold, etc. After this, the engine is installed on standard mounts and connected to the gearbox. To avoid problems with changing the fuel pump and when laying a new fuel line, you need to purchase a standard ramp.

In addition to the ramp, you will need longer fuel injectors. The ramp does not connect to the engine immediately. You must first install the receiver. This process is quite labor-intensive - you need to tighten all the cushions and raise the car with a jack. After this, you can push the receiver through and insert the ramp with injectors. The ramp is screwed after the nozzles are installed on the wells. After this, the receiver sits in place and is secured. When performing work, care must be taken to ensure that the rubber seals on the receiver are not damaged. Next, all elements of attachments are installed in their standard places.

Now you can do the electrical wiring. First you need to disassemble the ignition. Since the car does not have four ignition coils, a standard one is installed, and only high-voltage wires are needed from the Priora. It will be necessary to increase the wiring by about 40 cm, since its length may not be sufficient. The same applies to the phase sensor.

Next you need to deal with the exhaust. It is necessary to dismantle the old exhaust manifold with the catalyst, and in its place a 4-2-1 “spider” system with holes for the DC is installed. The corrugation is also placed there. The exhaust pipe is completely replaced, and the standard can is modified.

It is not necessary to change the thermostat - you can leave the standard one, but it will need to be configured correctly. If the cooling fan is in contact with the receiver, you can replace it with a Niva fan, which has two impellers on the outside. The hoses on the radiator need to be replaced. The generator is mounted on standard mountings; its belt does not need to be changed.

In order for the engine to operate normally, the injectors must be flashed and calibrated. The decorative engine grille can be left in place, you just have to make cuts on its front side. The entire structure can be significantly strengthened by installing a brace with a fourth mount for the power unit - this will not cost much at all.

After all installation work has been completed, new filters are installed, oil is added and the engine is run in. You cannot immediately accelerate the engine to maximum speed, since at this time the engine components are grinding in - parts can become deformed from excessive load, which can lead to engine failure. In the corresponding section of our website you can find an article about

Good afternoon, I haven’t written for a long time: (because I didn’t have time... I assembled my Priora’s engine a long time ago, and even managed to break it in;) I drove 2000 km on it. Well, now about the most important thing... how and from what we assembled the new heart :) Action plan: 1. I decided that I was making a motor for myself, which means I will sharpen the block + After boring, do honing. I didn’t think for a long time and turned to Auto VAZ at Chekistov :) where the mechanic guy kindly and clearly explained everything that first buy the pistons, and then I’ll make everything the right size for you. 2. An hour later I was already at the 50th Anniversary of October in the Ladya store. It was this store that became my favorite in Tyumen:) the sellers understand what they are selling + an adequate price tag for spare parts and their availability. Of course, there is also a defect there, which I changed without problems after 2 weeks :) the timing belt roller made noise... I bought: STK pistons VAZ 21126 - 82.5 (Splitless with anti-friction coating) for a 75.6 mm crankshaft in a 197.1 mm block, for connecting rods 133.3 mm and pins d18 mm) rings 1.2 mm/1.5 mm/2.0 mm

STK plug-inless with a displacer To compensate for the compression ratio, the pistons have a displacer, and according to the manufacturer, the compression ratio with these pistons remains unchanged.

Piston ring set d82.50 mm “PRIMA” 1.2 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm

Started in Auto VAZ for boring. I liked that I drove up to the machine itself by car, otherwise I had bad thoughts about how to carry the block through the whole workshop :)

First of all, the Master bored out the damaged cylinder, and then all the others. I liked that the Master answered all my questions that I asked :) he even explained why and what he was doing! A big + and respect to the master for his patience))) because after finishing the boring I took out another crankshaft and asked him to check it, he kindly agreed and checked it for free... I'M SHOCKED 0_0!

3. In the evening we already started assembling the beast... I won’t describe everything there are too many little details :) I’ll highlight only the most important things...

Motor device

Briefly about how the VAZ 2123 Chevrolet Niva engine works.

Cylinders

They were combined with the upper part of the crankcase. Like most VAZ engines, this power unit has cylinders operating in a 1-3-4-2 pattern. The lower part of the cylinder block is connected on five supports to the crankshaft.

1 — tension roller of the air conditioning compressor drive belt; 2 — air conditioning compressor drive belt; 3 — air conditioning compressor clutch; 4 — thermostat; 5 — throttle assembly; 6 — outlet pipe of the cooling jacket; 7 — coolant pump pulley; 8 - phase sensor; 9 — tension roller for the auxiliary drive belt; 10 — cylinder head; 11 - generator; 12 — power steering pump pulley; 13 — support roller for the auxiliary drive belt; 14 — cylinder block; 15 — auxiliary drive belt; 16 — crankshaft position sensor; 17 — auxiliary drive pulley; 18 — air conditioning compressor drive pulley; 19 — oil pan; power unit support; an exhaust manifold; receiver; cylinder head cover;

VAZ 2123 engine - features

Features of a diesel engine, pros and cons

The VAZ 2123 engine for the Chevrolet Niva has received many changes that have a better effect on its functional characteristics.

Unlike its predecessor models, it has a different generator location. He is now on top.

1 — oil pan; 2 — main bearing cover; 3 — connecting rod cover; 4 - crankshaft; 5 — connecting rod; 6 - piston; 7 — piston rings; 8 - valve; 9 — valve guide; 10 — valve springs; 11 - plate; 12 - camshaft; 13 — cylinder head cover; 14 — valve lever; 15 - hydraulic support; 16 — cylinder head; 17 — spark plug; 18 — cylinder head gasket; 19 — generator bracket; 20 — cylinder block; 21 — oil pump gear retainer; 22 — oil pump gear; 23 — oil filter bracket; 24 — oil pan gasket; 25 - oil pump

The new cylinder block is based on the old one, but despite this it has its own marking. The main change affected the way the oil filter is mounted. In older models it was screwed directly into the block, but now a special bracket is used for connection. It performs another function - it is a support for mounting the power steering pump.

The flywheel received an increased diameter, as a result of which its working surface became 215 mm.

A new pump has been installed, inside of which a roller bearing is located. Unlike the old ball bearing, the new type of bearing has an increased service life.

Also interesting: Construction and repair of the VAZ 2121 Niva transfer case

The water pump, power steering pump and generator are driven by a pulley mounted on the crankshaft. The system includes tension and support rollers. The pulleys themselves are made according to a special design, adjusted to the belt profile.

1 — tension roller of the air conditioning compressor drive belt; 2 — air conditioning compressor drive belt; 3 — air conditioning compressor clutch; 4 — thermostat; 5 — throttle assembly; 6 — outlet pipe of the cooling jacket; 7 — coolant pump pulley; 8 - phase sensor; 9 — tension roller for the auxiliary drive belt; 10 — cylinder head; 11 - generator; 12 — power steering pump pulley; 13 — support roller for the auxiliary drive belt; 14 — cylinder block; 15 — auxiliary drive belt; 16 — crankshaft position sensor; 17 — auxiliary drive pulley; 18 — air conditioning compressor drive pulley; 19 — oil pan; power unit support; an exhaust manifold; receiver; cylinder head cover;

Changes also affected the design of the engine compartment. The front axle gearbox is no longer attached to the engine. This required changes to the internal engine compartment.

A new air intake system is installed in the VAZ 2123 engine. The volume of its body has increased significantly due to the increased size of the air filter, which can now be changed less frequently.

The engine is also controlled by new controllers. Depending on the modifications, BOSCH or JANUARY controllers can be installed.

Nuances when installing an engine from Priora to Niva

Let's consider the main nuances that may arise during the installation of the Priora power unit:

Of course, in addition to the above points, certain problems may arise after installing the motor. For example, inaccessibility in the timing mechanism - in this case, when replacing the belt, you often have to drain the coolant. Due to the alteration of the sump, another negative point appears - now there is less oil in it than it should have been from the factory - this can lead to negative consequences under critical loads on the engine.

The clutch, according to reviews of many owners with already converted engines from Priora, is somewhat worse than on the same Chevrolet Niva, so its service life is reduced, and accordingly, you have to bother with replacement more often. But, as they say, everyone understands perfectly well what they are getting into when installing an engine of greater power and with non-standard mounts.

If you want to see what usually results from such tuning, the video review below will be a visual aid.

Such tuning takes a lot of effort and time, but this stopped few people in such cases!

Peculiarities

The Niva-Chevrolet with the Priora engine has some features compared to similar classic VAZ models. Firstly, installation of the power unit is simplified, since the location of the motor is identical. Secondly, variations were produced with almost the same engine as the Priora. In addition, a new production version of the domestic SUV is being developed, to which the engine from Priora, considered one of the best among our manufacturers, is adapted.

Considering the high service life and versatility of the motor in question, its installation is advisable on many VAZ models. Moreover, relatively modern modifications will require a minimum of modifications, while more classic versions will gain new power and speed.

Having studied all the characteristics of the engine, it can be noted that the Priora power unit is a reliable and well-developed engine. The use of modern technologies and new developments has allowed domestic developers to create a reliable and high-quality unit.

Additionally, this unit is supported by reviews from owners and the desire of many car enthusiasts, despite the additional costs of time and money, to equip their vehicle with a Priora engine.

So, if you decide to change the motor in the shnivka, then I advise you to use the Priora (21126), because it is the most powerful and the most successful, its disadvantage is the bending of the valves when the timing belt breaks, but there are already plug-in pistons, so you can immediately modify it, I installed a motorcycle kit from a “super auto” in it to increase the volume to 1.8, if the budget allows, then Take it, you won’t regret it, it costs 25 rubles. Let's start, to swap a prioromotor you will need: a welder, a turner, a milling machine operator, a car mechanic, welding, an angle grinder, a drill, a sledgehammer)), a great desire and straight hands..., I’ll write right away that the work is not easy and if you think that by downloading the description from the drive everything will work out, it’s not a fact, it turns out that AvtoVAZ doesn’t have all its cars exactly made, some have gaps with a difference of up to 5 mm, and this can become a problem... if this doesn’t scare you, then before the swap we do preparatory work, namely, we order coolant outlets for the classic 16kl (there are many offices, for example atmo-tuning.ru or club-turbo.ru) and they come in different shapes, in some the outlet from the cylinder head passes from the side of the dipstick, and in some above the exhaust manifold, I like the second option better, because .To. for a Chevrolet Niva it is more convenient, but alas, I found out about this late and I got a front outlet near the dipstick, the outlets are not expensive, about 1.5 rubles, then we buy a used engine from Priora with a timing case, gears and a flywheel, but with a flywheel it is for us It will be useful no matter what they write, but my version of the flywheel is the most convenient and easiest to manufacture. So, we read carefully, the kv from the Priora is shorter than the Nivov one and the input shaft fits into it by only 2-3 mm, so there is no need to sharpen the crankshaft, but we do this: from the Priora flywheel (or any one from 2108) we cut out the middle from the turner, such a snout with holes diameter

90mm is quite enough, we will use it as a spacer between the kv and the standard Shniv flywheel, we take our flywheel from the Shniv to the milling machine with this spacer and ask them to drill holes for the bolts as on our heel, ask for better alignment, there are Shniv flywheels on sale with already modified with such oval holes, you can buy it, it doesn’t matter, then we go to the UAZ Gas store and buy the flywheel mounting bolts from the UAZ, they are longer just by the size of our spacer, we also buy a input shaft bearing that should be inserted into the CV, install We insert our spacer on the knee into it (it fits tightly into it), then our Shniv flywheel, spacer plate and bolts from the UAZ, we fasten the whole thing with a torque of 8-9 kgf, having previously lubricated the threads with gray sealant or thread locker..., and that’s it... now we there is no need to resharpen the crown, there is no need to put a spacer under the release lever and there is also no need to put washers under the starter, in fact everything is easy and simple here... The pallet gave me a lot of trouble, I took a 16kL ready for the classics (as it turned out, this was in vain) it is completely different , it’s easier to make from 2108, my collective farm one is leaking, I’ll make the right one one of these days, so I’ll post a photo of the pan later, the exhaust is also not easy, they say you can take a ready-made 16kL from the classics and modify it for the field, I clamped 4p and made it from the exhaust manifold from priors (I got it, a new 1r) without kata which are sold, here I had to cut and cook from the heart, I don’t know who came up with the idea of ​​putting a downpipe above the stabilizer on the shnivy, well, what the heck with it, I also docked them and the rest is all original..., well he doesn’t even say anything about the engine mounts, they fit the holes, just drill out the left bracket holes from 8mm to 10mm, now about the power steering: you can buy a power steering bracket for 2110 at a disassembly or in a store, it is compatible with ours, except for the pulley, the pulley is also needed from 2110 tk. the offset is different (here’s the catalog number, I took a new one 2110-3407180), a small part stopped the whole process for me, it’s called the generator belt roller bracket, here’s the number 21104-1041084-00, it’s better to get it from disassembly, these parts don’t break and there’s usually plenty of them, too you will need a generator bracket from a Priora with a steering wheel or a condenser and a front side engine mount, cut off the nose protruding from it, as an option, you can take a broken one at disassembly, they gave it to me for free, we need it for the correct installation of the generator, in short, we need everything here as on the Priora with a guru, you can change the alternator pulley from the Priora (in the field there are 5 streams on the Priora 6) and then the belt will be needed 6rk1113-6rk1120, I didn’t bother and set it to 5rk, so far it’s fine; the fuel rail from Priora fits perfectly, just straighten the tube carefully and connect it to ours; you can leave the receiver plastic, but then the air filter will be above the manifold, I have a snorkel and I had to order a ready-made one with the throttle turned to the battery, you can leave your thermostat, or you can use one from 2101, then as your imagination allows, you can buy additional pipes in the store and connecting is not difficult, it is not necessary to connect the throttle heating, but it is convenient to vent air through it..., now about the setup: I was able to rebuild my friend’s 21124 engine with a native Bosch 7.9.7+ engine without problems, only the throttle had to be changed to a regular one (Niva has a channel рхх more), in my case it turned out to be more difficult, if the operating modes were not able to be rebuilt, then a problem arose with xx, so I changed the unit to Itelma M73 with additional soldering of the necessary elements for the operation of the second speed of the fan, you can install January 7.2 from Kalina and you will also have to to rebuild the whole thing..., the wiring for the sensors had to be gutted in order to get everything to its place, except for the wire to the crankshaft sensor, it needs to be extended. The whole alteration took a week, a lot of time was spent on the pan and exhaust.

That very moment: test drive of LADA 4×4 with LADA Priora engine

I just want to exclaim: “Well, AVTOVAZ, why the hell couldn’t you do this yourself?!” But we won't shout. Because, firstly, we roughly know what the hell (about a billion different reasons), and secondly, we are not going to ask stupid questions. It’s much more interesting to ride and understand whether the mutant turned out to be suitable.

The flocked panel no longer looks so orphan-like, the leather steering wheel is a little more comfortable to grip, and it’s more comfortable to sit on the seats, which, in addition to the leather upholstery, have a reinforced frame. It’s just a pity that such a seat cannot fundamentally change the driving position of a Niva anyway. The “tuning” combination is also not bad (it’s certainly more interesting than the standard one), and the only thing that infuriates it is the blue background of the trip computer display. The fuel remaining indicator is incredibly simple - just a stupid arrow, no red zones or buzzer. Thanks to this, we returned from the test with one liter of fuel on board - we only noticed the shortage at the very end.

Needless to say, we got carried away by the trip! A steel roof rack would be useful on a long journey, but power bumpers (the front one has a built-in winch) and a “ski” for protecting units made of five-millimeter metal may well come in handy even on a short outing. After all, the car is a real provocateur: the rear self-block, suspension lift, toothy off-road tires and arches cut out for this purpose are enough for Niva to gain almost complete freedom on the roads.

Where on a stock car you will definitely “throw away”, on this one you can fly almost without looking back. The car swallows huge holes, does not nod and does not “goat”. Calmly passes mind-blowing “diagonals”. Cheerfully flies into brutal climbs. Exactly cheerfully - so that you clearly understand: a standard car would have “died” even in the middle of this ascent. And the reason for the cheerfulness is the VAZ-21126 engine, mated to a completely standard Nivov transmission.

And the VAZ is still there

This 1.6-liter 98-horsepower sixteen-valve engine is found on the LADA Priora, Kalina and Granta, and along with the eight-valve engine from front-wheel drive cars, AVTOVAZ engineers have long been trying on the LADA 4×4. However, things would still be there (read - the project would remain a project), if not for the world of tuning. In the case of the presented “patient” we are dealing with a completely serious approach to the matter. The guys who built the car have an engineering staff and a production workshop with modern equipment. The car was built to order in a single copy, but the solutions found on it are planned to be replicated and offered to customers, both in the form of a turnkey car, and in the form of a kit for self-installation.

The engine was placed longitudinally under the hood, and so that it would not rest against the engine shield, it had to be moved forward a little. As we can see, there is minimal space at the engine shield, but there is even plenty of space left for the radiator. It would be possible to move the box forward, but then it would rest against the steering rods. Therefore, the box remained in place, a spacer appeared between the crankshaft and the engine flywheel, and the box is connected to the engine through another spacer, consisting of three parts. Such solutions are not new, but subsequent reliability, as a rule, is greatly affected by the level of execution.

The updated Lada 4×4 will receive a Priora engine and a new subframe in 2015

The portal CARobka.ru has already reported that the updated version of the VAZ Lada 4×4 SUV will receive a new engine from the front-wheel drive model, and the engine will be positioned longitudinally. Several concrete facts have appeared about what awaits the Lada 4×4 '2015 and whether it awaits at all?

A short wheelbase, an 83-horsepower engine, all-wheel drive and a manual transmission - everything is simple, but how does it overcome off-road conditions?!

All this will entail several more changes that will have to be made to the design: the oil pan will have to be replaced, and the cardan joints in the transmission will give way to CV joints (constant velocity joints).

Only the fate of the Lada 4×4 raises some concerns among Russian Automotive journalists, namely: the Niva could be killed by Alliance partners, GM-Avtovaz and the new president of AVTOVAZ, Bo Andersson. Hack, of course, is a strong word. Rather, “friends” can hinder the development of the project for deep modernization and the creation of a new Lada 4×4 as much as possible. We do not know what levers they have for these purposes. In general, such rumors have been circulating for a long time, since the appearance of the Duster, now they have strengthened in light of the release of the Indian Nissan Terrano, and next year they may become a postulate when Chevrolet introduces a new generation of the Niva model. As for Andersson, who came to AVTOVAZ, they say that he may take the side of the controlling shareholder and help drown out the glorious ballad of Lada 4x4. We very much doubt this. In addition, lately there has been a lot of talk about the VAZ SUV. Vice President for Products and Programs of AVTOVAZ OJSC Mikhail Ryabov said that the new Lada 4×4 will appear at the end of 2017-beginning of 2021 and will retain the inherent brutality of this model.

Full technical specifications of the Chevrolet Niva - summary table

* – engine data before modernization in 2020 is indicated in brackets.

Advantages of the Priora engine

Based on all the characteristics and descriptions of the engine, we can say that it will be a reliable and efficient component of the vehicle, which will improve and increase its service life. It is worth noting that domestic manufacturers have been using the most modern techniques and developments for a long time, which allows them to create high-quality car components. That is why drivers have been making decisions to replace engines in their fields for a long time. Such a replacement increases the performance of the vehicle, and the costs relative to the purchase of a new car are not large.

Source

Preparatory work

You need to start by completely disassembling the flywheel, since it is important to adjust the elements related to the starter, or more precisely to its gear. The flywheel is updated due to the fact that the crown is replaced. Do not forget that when it comes to changes of this kind in a car, they are all carried out directly with regard to the engine itself. In this regard, there is a lack of checkpoint adjustments. To properly connect it to the future engine, an additional component is required, which is an adapter plate. It is available for purchase, but many specialists make it themselves. In some cases, another connection method is used. This way the motor block can be directly fixed to the gearbox. Quite often, drivers use just this method, since, from the point of view of practical application, it is considered stronger and, accordingly, more reliable.

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