Everything you need to know when using AdBlue in your car

AdBlue is a reagent that is used as an additional working fluid in diesel engines of Euro 4 - Euro 6 standards equipped with an SCR system (Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) - selective catalytic converter) to ensure clean emissions. The SCR system consists of a catalyst, a sprayer, a dispenser and an AdBlue tank. The operating principle of the AdBlue system is a chemical reaction of ammonia with nitrogen oxide in the exhaust gases, resulting in the formation of harmless nitrogen and water vapor. It is thanks to the injection of the AdBlue reagent that environmental standards Euro 4 - Euro 6 are achieved.

AdBlue consumption averages 0.8 - 2.7 liters per 100 km.

For cars that meet the Euro 4 environmental standard, consumption is no more than 5%, Euro 5 – no more than 6% and Euro 6 – no more than 7% of the amount of fuel consumed by the car (Adblue reagent consumption table).

For the purpose of normalizing the consumption of the Adblue reagent, it is recommended to use a value of 7% of the normalized value of operational fuel consumption.

As a general rule, AdBlue urea consumption on a truck should be approximately 4% of diesel consumption for Euro IV, 6% for Euro V and approximately 3% for Euro VI. AdBlue urea consumption of a truck per 100 km is approximately 1.5-2 liters. Thus, a typical truck consumes approximately 1500-2500 liters of AdBlue per year depending on mileage and vehicle type. With a tank of 80 liters you will travel approximately 5000 km. Do not forget about the quality factor of AdBlue urea. There is a myth that supposedly you can dilute AdBlue urea with water and thus save money. Read more about it here

What is the AdBlue consumption in a passenger car? Read more about it here

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List of gas stations where you can refill AdBlue from the dispenser

List of places to fill AdBlue from the pump directly into the car tank. Prices and addresses of AdBlue filling stations.

Disabling urea. The whole truth about turning off urea.

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The question of how to turn off urea interests many truck owners. Today, the market offers various solutions to this problem. When choosing performers, you should trust your equipment only to experienced and qualified specialists who professionally repair trucks. It is necessary that the craftsmen have a really good understanding of the material part.

In Russia, turning off urea is legal. By Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation on July 30, 2014 No. 730, an amendment to the technical regulations was adopted, allowing Manufacturers to disable the engine power limiting function in the absence of AdBlue fluid or the SCR system is not working

Why do you need to turn off urea at all? There are a number of reasons why, in our conditions, the operation of the SCR system turned out to be very unreliable. Let's look at them briefly.

SCR system failures in Russian conditions

At the beginning of 2007, we started seeing cars with Adblue. We immediately studied the principles of operation of the SCR system, but for the first time we encountered its malfunctions only in 2009. The first serious problems began to arise after low-quality Adblue liquid appeared on the market. The proprietary liquid at low temperatures transforms into a state of aggregation close to a gel. With further freezing, it acquires the consistency of mush (surely you have seen how antifreeze freezes?).

How does the Mercedes AdBlue display system work?

If the AdBlue urea reserve has been used up to the reserve level (range of approximately 2400 km), the following message appears on the display:

Top up AdBlue See “Manual”.

If the AdBlue urea reserve has been used to a minimum, the following message appears on the display:

Topping up AdBlue Starting is not possible after XXXX km.

If the message appears on the multifunction display

Topping up AdBlue Starting is not possible after XXXX km,

then your car will still be able to travel the specified distance, after which if you turn off the engine, it will become impossible to start.

If the message appears on the multifunction display:

Topping up AdBlue Starting impossible

then you need to add at least 3.5 liters of AdBlue urea to the tank.

Programmatic shutdown of urea is also possible using different urea methods

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programmatically disable urea in the following ways:

  1. Using dealer scanners, the power limit percentage parameter is changed. In normal operation, in the event of active SCR system fault codes, the engine can produce no more than 60% power. As a result of changing the settings, the parameter value is set to 100%. It turns out that the system signals errors, but power is not cut off. On Scania this is done by replacing SOPS files; on Iveco you need to upload firmware from special equipment. All MAN and Scania sold on our market are initially suitable for operation without cutting off power in case of malfunctions of the SCR system. Those. This requires dealer diagnostics with advanced capabilities. The disadvantages of this method are the constant display of errors and the appearance of error messages. As a result, after some time the driver simply stops responding to vehicle messages. Thus, there was a case when the main bearing on a MAN TGX turned while driving. The driver did not pay attention to the message and drove at a speed of 85 km/h for another 12 minutes. I had to change the engine. And if the driver had reacted immediately in time, then the pastel under the liner in the block would have remained intact and it would have been possible to limit ourselves to boring the crankshaft. On another MAN TGX, a gasket broke under the compressor head. As a result, the compressor began to pump air into the cooling system. The driver did not pay attention and overheated the engine, and the pneumatic system filled with antifreeze.
  2. Using dealer scanners, the VIN is changed in all units, and then the EURO III program is recorded. This can lead to problems with traffic police officers (who have learned to determine the VIN on the dashboard). But it’s even worse that this program will not work correctly - after all, there are different types of injectors, turbines, different methods of cooling the pistons, etc. Therefore, after such alterations, the service life will likely decrease, and fuel consumption may increase significantly. When contacting a dealer, they may either not take the car with such modifications at all, or restore everything to its original condition. Such a car will be diagnosed incorrectly and there will be many errors. For example, the firmware will not contain pre-injection (when using four-pin injectors), or pre-heating will not work, or some sensor will not be visible.
  3. Urea can be turned off using various programmers. In this case, the dump is first read from the engine control unit, then it is changed and filled back in. They use different programmers - there are very expensive ones (a set costs about 350 thousand rubles) that work via a CAN bus. In this case, the level of services is very high, and they are quite expensive. Cheap programmers costing 4.5 thousand are also used. With their help, the engine ECU is removed, then the interface wiring is soldered and the dump is replaced. Often the EEPROM is soldered off. When removing the “brains” from the motor, on which the cooling coil may stand, dirt can be introduced. The cost of the block itself is approximately 200 thousand rubles. They will be poking at something in it with a soldering iron, plus this can take from 3 hours to several days. In addition, not all blocks can be flashed in this way; solutions do not exist for all types of machines.

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Don't piss? I mean, it’s not scary... It’s really like filling up the washer fluid. But everything unfamiliar is scary. The most frightening thing is what will happen when AdBlue runs out?! You can drive without washer, but without urea?! That's right - question. At my own peril and risk, I drove almost dry trying to figure out WHAT diagnostic messages the car would give out. Got it. All photos below.

The first message - the first bell - Top up AdBlue - on the central screen of the instrument panel between the tachometer and speedometer. The manual says that the minimum level at which the inscription appears is 2.4l. Yes. How much to fill? What is the consumption of this urea per 100 km of travel?

The tank volume is 35 liters - that’s what the dealer said at first. Then I corrected myself that my model has a 15 liter tank. The numbers in the manual are different! It says 11.5 or 25 liters... which one exactly? According to the indication in the maintenance menu, apparently 11.5l. Since after filling 10 liters the indication showed that the tank was full. One less question.

Read also: Photo of VAZ 2110 starter injector

The car comes from the factory with a starting volume of urea of ​​10 liters.

General conclusions: 1. Consumption per 100 km is 0.1 liters. Or, more simply, a liter of urea for 1000 km of travel. Consumption greatly depends on the quality of the source fuel and driving style. I fill up at Gazpromneft. There are drivers on the site who get 2 liters per 1000 km. I drive mostly in Eco mode (pensioner mode, oh well, burgher mode). There is enough power and dynamics. Again, Eco is an extra drag for me when the cabin is full of kids. True, when necessary, to overtake or enter the acceleration lane, I switch to Sport. 2. From the first message to the car stop you can drive TWO tanks full of fuel. Verified. see below. 3. You can fill it yourself. There is nothing tricky. Only a funnel is needed. Well, be careful not to spill it on the paintwork. 4. It’s not worth buying for future use! Urea has an expiration date. Attention - when purchasing, pay attention to the expiration date! Feel free to take 6 months away from him. 5. There is currently a shortage of urea at gas stations. It's just not worth it. I found it only at the Rosneft gas station, two cans for 10 and 20 liters. For 1600 km while driving with a warning, I looked at the presence of urea at other gas stations in Moscow and the Moscow region. No. I saw a 20 liter canister once at Gazpromneft. But for a carabuse this is a lot. And after opening, the remaining liquid in the canister quickly turns into water and smelly gas. 6. Now the most important thing - why not piss?! It’s just that while I was smoking a topic in the forums, I was reading mischievous slogans about “the urea has run out, the car won’t drive, pee in the tank.” Urea freezes! Clean correct at -11 degrees. And any changes in concentration (by water or something else) will lead to an increase in the freezing point (i.e. it will start to freeze at -5 or at -1). It is claimed that in case of emergency you can top it up with distilled water 7. The most important conclusion is that on long trips around Russia and other “non-Germany” you should take a canister of urea with you... or get some money from truckers in fancy cars.

Read also: Body for Mazda Family

For those who decided to turn off the catalyst with urea, a little is written here about saving hedgehogs with the help of AdBlue. For those who still root for hedgehogs, here ZR conducts testing of AdBlue liquids. I think, as always, the tests have been purchased. But the info is useful.

I won't turn it off. I am for saving hedgehogs :). But seriously, if you want to make your country better, cleaner, make your city cleaner, difficult - make your home cleaner and better, difficult - start from the entrance, gimor - put things in order on the landing. In short, start with yourself. Again, when I come to a country house, there is AIR, and it’s cool that a running Mercedes DOESN’T SPOILE it. And this is worth a lot! And it costs only 300-1300 rubles every 10,000 km

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