How to replace silent blocks on a VAZ-2107 yourself

What are silent blocks

A silent block is a special hinge made of steel bushings separated by a rubber insert. This element connects the nodes that make up the front suspension, as well as the rear. The soft layer helps dampen the vibration that accompanies vehicle movement.

The part in question can significantly extend the service life of more expensive suspension elements. At the same time, it itself breaks down quite quickly, so it has to be changed periodically.

In the case of the VAZ-2107, silent blocks on:

• the front suspension is used to softly fix its arms;
• rear - connect reaction rods that attach the chassis directly to the body.

Here it is worth mentioning one important nuance - depending on the location, silent blocks differ in size, so when purchasing an incomplete set you need to be as careful as possible. The parts under consideration are made not only on a rubber basis - there are options where polyurethane is used. The latter are considered the most reliable, but they also cost much more.

Regardless of what type of silent blocks you purchased, you must constantly monitor their condition and change it as soon as its service life expires. This will eliminate a more serious problem - failure of the entire suspension.

Replacing rubber-metal hinges of the front suspension arms

A unit such as a silent block is a product consisting of two durable steel bushings and a polyurethane or rubber gasket located between them. Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers is required if the unit has ceased to effectively cope with its tasks (damping vibrations, oscillations and noise). If during a technical inspection the technician discovered deep cracks in the rubber of the silent block, then it is time to replace this part.

Cost of work

Silent block malfunctions manifest themselves as follows:

• Loss of directional stability (the car “drifts” from side to side)
• Tire sidewall wears out prematurely
• Extraneous noises and knocks are heard

If the silent blocks of the upper arms are not replaced promptly, their metal elements may damage the joint seats. It will be quite difficult to correct such consequences.

Loads acting on the silent block

This component of the front suspension resists forces acting in several planes. During vehicle operation, the silent block restrains angular, axial and radial stresses. Accordingly, replacing the silent blocks of the front control arms will be required quite often.

Preparatory stage

Whatever type of elements you choose, replacing them on the seventh VAZ model is done in the same way. You will need a number of tools and materials during the process. Here is the list:

• pullers for the ball joint and the silent block itself;
• chisel with hammer;
• crowbar or pry bar;
• set of spanners;
• VD-40;
• clean rags.

Before work you will need:

• place the VAZ on a level surface and turn on the handbrake;
• raise the front of the car with a jack;
• install a more stable support under it;
• remove the front wheels.

Spray all the bolts and nuts that you plan to unscrew with penetrating lubricant in advance - this will significantly simplify the task.

Replacement of silent blocks of front levers of VAZ 2107, 2106, 2105.

Good day. In this article I will tell you how to change the silent blocks in the front upper and lower control arms on a classic. But first, I’ll tell you why they fail and how to understand whether they need to be replaced?

Diagnostics of silent blocks in the front control arms.

Why do silent blocks need to be changed over time? There are several reasons for this:

1. Over time, rubber loses its elastic properties and begins to crack.
2. During use of the machine or during its maintenance, oil got onto the silent block.
3. Incorrect installation of the part.
4. Driving on very bad roads, of which there are a great many in Russia.

Everything is diagnosed quite simply. The first thing that should alert you is the deterioration in the responsiveness of the steering wheel. But this may not be the case only, let’s look further. The second sign of dead silents, the wheels are standing like a house. On the pit or on the lift, check the integrity of the rubber bands (they should not have cracks and they should not be squeezed out). You can take a crowbar or a pry bar and try to move the levers. They should not have free movement (should not dangle).

Replacing silent blocks in the upper control arm of a classic with your own hands.

So, let's begin! In rear-wheel drive VAZs, the silent blocks in the upper arm can be changed without even driving into a hole and without removing the arm from the ball (provided that you have a remover for silent blocks). But first you need to determine whether the bushings of the silent blocks are stuck to the bolt securing the lever to the body. To do this, jack up the car and remove the wheel.

Arrows point to bolt and nut

We loosen the nut securing the upper arm with a 22mm wrench and try to turn the bolt. If it spins and the bushings stay in place, then you're in luck! But if this bolt rotates with great force and the bushings rotate with them, then as they say: “Houston, we have problems!” Next we will consider both cases.

If the silent blocks are not stuck.

Further actions depend on whether you have a puller for silent blocks. If there is one, then you don’t have to remove the lever completely, but just unscrew the nut 22 to the end, take out the bolt and turn the lever towards yourself (for the convenience of further repairs).

We turn the lever for convenience.

Next, take a puller and press out the silent blocks.

Removing the silent block using a puller

And with his help we press in new silent blocks. Before pressing, the mounting hole must be cleaned and preferably lubricated with lithol. In the upper arms, silent blocks are pressed into place up to the ribs, as shown in the photo below.

The new silent should be pressed in exactly like this.

But what to do if you don’t have a silent block remover ? Then you will have to completely remove the lever. We take out not only the bolt securing the upper arm to the body, but also take out the ball from the hub (this is faster than unscrewing 3 bolts securing the ball to the arm). Detailed removal of the ball joint is written here.

We removed the lever, put the lever ear on a pipe or on a yew tree (as in the photo), the main thing is that the silent block does not rest against anything, and knock it out with a hammer.

To press in new ones, we need a mandrel (old bearing, piece of pipe, nut head). The inner diameter of the mandrel must be equal to the diameter of the skirt of the new silent block. And we begin pressing in new parts using this mandrel, having previously lubricated the seat with lithol. Reassemble in reverse order.

Important: we pull the bolt securing the lever to the body only under the load on this wheel! Those. The car should not be on a jack, but on all wheels!

If the silent blocks are stuck to the bolt.

This is a very difficult case, since you will have to spend a long time trying to get the bolt that secures the front upper arm to the body.

For those who want to save themselves a lot of time and are ready to fork out a little, I advise you to buy a new bolt, this lever from disassembly and just cut off the old bolt with a grinder.

Well, if you have time and nerves, then we take a gas burner in our hands and burn out the silent block. Follow fire safety precautions! After all the rubber has burned out, you can begin to knock out the bolt. Get ready to do this for a very long time. After you remove the bolt, knock out the remaining clip of the burnt silent tape from the lever and follow the instructions written above.

Lower silent block

Replacing parts installed on the lower arm of a VAZ is a more labor-intensive process, because it cannot be removed, which means that all work will have to be done by weight.

The procedure is as follows:

• unscrew both nuts securing the lever;
• Install a puller on one side of it and pull out the silent block;
• do the same on the opposite side;
• install new parts and press them into the lever;
• screw the nuts, not forgetting to place thrust washers under them;
• return the wheel to its place;
• lower the car to the ground;
• tighten all previously tightened nuts until they stop.

Do-it-yourself replacement of front silent blocks on a VAZ 2110

As many car owners know, silent blocks have a direct impact on wheel alignment angles. Therefore, a beginner needs to understand how important it is to monitor the condition of these elements. Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 2110 is quite simple, but today we will reveal some of the repair features to you.

When replacement is required

It will not be difficult for a more or less experienced driver to understand that the silent blocks are out of order and they need to be replaced. First of all, you will feel a certain discomfort while driving, you will hear the impact of iron in the suspension. But that's not all.

Determining the need to replace silent blocks is not difficult if you pay attention to the characteristic signs of their wear:

• While driving, strong or minor rubber squeaks are observed. It all depends on the degree of wear. Loud noise is a very bad sign;
• A noise similar to a knock is heard in the wheel area. This indicates that the silent blocks are poorly fixed and they are gradually destroyed;
• Cracks form on the surface of the elements, after which the process of disintegration of the silent block begins. In such a situation, it will be impossible not to hear a knock.

Replacement of silent blocks of front levers of VAZ 2110

Some car owners are afraid to replace the silent blocks of the front beam on a VAZ 2110 on their own. But in vain. Contacting a service station entails serious financial costs. Plus, it’s far from a fact that the service station will do your job better than you would have done yourself.

Press-fitting

The only thing is that you may need the help of a car service friend. All service stations have a special puller in their tool arsenal. There is no point in purchasing it, since it is expensive and is rarely needed by a car owner. Some craftsmen even make their own puller using a homemade method. There are many drawings and diagrams according to which it is made. So you can try it if you have free time.

There are two silent blocks in the front beam - in the front upper and front lower arm . The procedure for replacing them is somewhat different from each other, so we will consider the processes separately.

Front upper control arm silent block

Broken
Let us immediately note that it is easier to work with it than with the second element. The entire procedure involves performing several sequential operations.

1. Raise the car on a jack and secure it in a stationary position. Turn on the handbrake, put stoppers under the wheels.
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Unscrew and remove the support. To do this, you will need to turn the wheel out and hit the bipod with a hammer. It is better to do this through some kind of insert.
4. By knocking out the support, you can remove the upper front control arm without serious problems.
5. There is a bolt on the side, it is quite long. Unscrew it. Inspect the end play. Most likely, it is quite serious and is easily felt when checking. Therefore, you absolutely correctly decided to change the silent blocks.
6. You can remove the silent block with a hammer and chisel. Just don't hit it too hard, or you'll damage other suspension components.
7. In some cases, the silent block sits very firmly, so you can’t do without a drill and drilling it. After making the holes, you can safely remove the element.
8. Now use the smaller bushing to press the new silent block into place. The part must fit firmly and securely into the socket.

about axial play . To eliminate it, you can go in two ways:

• The first is to replace the entire pillar. The option is so-so, since its cost is very high, but the quality is quite low;
• The second is to tighten a couple of washers from the sides. They will not allow the mounting bolt to dangle.

Logbook VAZ 21074 (2006)

Do-it-yourself: Front suspension: 4. Replacement of silent blocks VAZ-2107

Since you can’t just replace them, and buying pullers is not cheap, I decided to use improvised materials.

• a piece of water pipe with a diameter of approximately 45-50 mm (can be made from a 40 mm pipe) 3-4 cm long
• large washer or plate with a diameter of at least 50 mm
• M12-14 bolt 6-7 cm long with washers
• two pieces of pipe with a diameter of 40 mm, 5-10 cm long
• hammer, vice
• WD-shka or other liquid wrench, lubricant

Using a hammer, we beat off a piece of the 40th pipe on an anvil, bringing its diameter to 45-50 mm, so that the silent block of the lower arm passes through it freely; or find a tube of suitable diameter. We will use it to remove old silent blocks.

From the same 40th pipe we cut two more pieces - we will use them for pressing in new oil seals.

We first clean the removal areas and treat them with WD-shkoy or an analogue.

Let's start with the upper arm. To do this, take a bolt, put a thick-walled washer (or washers) on it, no smaller than the diameter of the inner and no larger than the outer bushing of the silent block (preferably).

We insert the bolt into the block from the inside of the lever, put on the large mandrel we made on the outside so that it rests against the walls of the lever, insert a large washer and tighten the nut.

As you tighten it, the mandrel will rest against the lever, and the bolt with washers will begin to pull the silent block into it. The main thing is to tear the block out of place, and then it’s a matter of technique - remove it with a large screwdriver and hammer.

Video

This video shows how to make a silent block remover and how to work with it.

How to change silent blocks without a puller.

How to change silent blocks on the “classic” VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107.

How to make a puller for VAZ 2113, 2114, 2115.

How to make a puller for removing and installing rubber-metal hinges on Skoda Fabia, Skoda Rapid, VW Polo Sedan cars.