Front suspension ford focus 2 restyling repair diagram

Ford Focus 2 front suspension: fault diagnosis, repair diagrams

The front suspension of the Ford Focus 2 is lever-spring, independent, MacPherson type. Consists of a subframe, a steering knuckle with a hub, a lever with a ball joint and silent blocks, a shock absorber strut and a stabilizer bar with a strut.

Most of the front suspension design elements are designed to last approximately 100 thousand kilometers without repair, except for the wheel bearing, which must be changed after 50-60 thousand kilometers. In this case, the hub bearing, the hub itself and the steering knuckle are not disassembled and the entire assembly is replaced. Due to the unsatisfactory condition of roads in our country, the mileage of the front suspension is halved. After every 20 thousand kilometers or impact when driving through particularly deep holes at high speed, it is necessary to check the condition of the front suspension. The problem that most often arises with the front suspension of the Ford Focus 2 is the noise effect (knock) when driving over bumps.

Rear suspension silent blocks Focus 2

First, some information. The Ford Focus 2 has a multi-link rear suspension. This gives advantages to the car's handling, but at the same time increases the cost of repairing the suspension in the event of a breakdown. It contains four levers on each side. One longitudinal, and three transverse (two at the bottom and one at the top).

The rear lower wishbone is also called a “sprung” arm; a spring rests against it. Anterior lower “bone” and upper “sickle”. They are called that because of their visual resemblance to these objects.

The content of the article:

Ford Focus 2 rear suspension diagram

There are two types of spring levers - straight and curved. Curved ones are used on the so-called improved suspension. They come with a stabilizer bar with L-shaped struts and two hinges. With straight arms there will be a different stabilizer and straight struts. Straight arms and struts are cheaper.

The wear of the rear suspension silent blocks can be judged by the beginning of uneven wear of the rear tires. You can check the silents visually and shake the “bone” with your hand. Often the silent parts in this lever simply begin to dangle due to the rubber breaking. It also becomes impossible to adjust the toe-in of the rear wheels, because the silent bushings stick to the camber bolts.

On my car, I missed the moment of timely replacement. For this reason, the rear tires were eaten away along the inner edge and a hernia appeared on the tread on one wheel. The wheel began to bounce when driving.

The rubber could still be used. And now just buy a new one. Therefore, I advise you to monitor wear and make timely repairs in the rear suspension.

Condition of suspension silents

The mileage at the time of repair was 174 thousand km. I examined the entire suspension and decided to change not all the silent parts, but only in the spring arm and in the “bones”. The rest didn't look too bad and were still holding the load. Below are a few photos of the left side, the same thing happened on the right.

Left side, front trailing arm bushing "butterfly"

Front lower wishbone left side "bone"

Upper wishbone on the left side "sickle"

Spare parts for repairs. Rear suspension silent blocks Focus 2

Everything I needed in the photo is what I needed, more details to come.

For the “bones” you need four identical silent blocks, two for each lever. Ordered Lemforder 31938 01.

I decided to use Masuma silents for the spring-loaded levers. Internal RU471, external RU470. The company is Japanese, but made at a factory in China. Externally the quality is good.

Internal silent spring lever

External silent spring lever

Silents differ in diameter and length of the outer ring. There is a red dot on one side. This side of the silent should be inserted into the lever; it is slightly smaller in diameter. In general, I noticed a difference of almost 1 mm in diameter only on one pair of silents, I don’t remember internal or external. You need to measure it with a caliper, but there was a red dot on both. If you press incorrectly, the silent seals will not stick.

I took a few bolts as a spare, but all of them came loose except the camber ones. The nuts are welded to the subframe. If you don't have to cut them, then just the bolts are enough. Bolts for “bones” M12x65 mm Ford 1 471 995 or SWAG 50 92 9451. Need 4 pieces. The bolts for the “sickles” are the same, but I didn’t touch them.

External bolt of the spring arm Ford 1 471 980 or Ford 6 699 982. M12x75 mm, two of these are needed. The Ford bolt 1 471 980 has a widening for the inner diameter of the silent only near the bolt head. My relatives have this place longer, I left them.

Spring arm outer bolt, 1 471 980

External bolt of spring arm, M12x75 mm

Bolts for bones, 1,471,995

Bolts for “bones” M12x65 mm

Preliminary diagnosis of front suspension faults

Shock absorbers

• The function of a shock absorber is to dampen spring vibrations. If, when pressing on one side of the machine, it returns to its original position and there is no repeated vibration, the shock absorber is working.
• We grab the wheel and swing it towards and away from us. If we feel play, it means the shock absorber is faulty. If the play disappears after pressing the brake, there is a very high probability that it is time to change the front wheel bearing.
• Upon visual inspection, there should be no damage or oil leaks in the lower part of the shock absorber and the springs should be intact.

Steering rods

It's best to check when the car is raised.

We swing the wheel left and right. If play is felt, it means the ball joint, tie rod or tie rod is faulty.

Anti-roll bar joints

• No external damage to the ball strut covers.
• We move the stabilizer bar up and down by hand or using a pry bar. If we feel play, then the struts need to be changed.

Rear silent block for subframe mounting

• Visually there should be no delamination of rubber.
• We are trying to move the lever ear by inserting a screwdriver between it and the subframe. If it moves, then the silent block needs to be changed.

Ball joints

Take a screwdriver and carefully insert it between the lever and the steering knuckle. We move up and down. If there is play or knocking, the ball must be replaced.

Having completed the preliminary diagnostics, it is advisable to go to a service station and make sure your conclusions are correct. In most cases, the problem will be in the wheel bearing or one of the parts of the control arm.

Repair schemes for the two most common problems with the front suspension of Ford Focus 2

Front wheel bearing replacement diagram

It is advisable to replace both bearings at the same time.

1. Jack up the car, unscrew the hub bolt, unscrew and remove the wheel.
2. To avoid damage, we release the stabilizer bar link.
3. Disconnect the ABS (anti-lock braking system) sensor terminal.
4. Release the tie rod end.
5. Remove the brake caliper. We do not disconnect the brake system hose. We secure the brake caliper in such a way as not to damage the hose. We knock down the brake disc.
6. We unscrew the ball fastening nut and press it out using a puller or knock the pin out of the lever with a hammer. Please note that under no circumstances should you hit the ball, we hit the bottom of the steering knuckle.
7. Unscrew the bolt connecting the shock absorber and steering knuckle. Using a chisel and hammer, loosen the terminal connection and release the shock absorber strut.
8. We remove the steering knuckle by pulling out the constant velocity joint of the front wheel drive from the hub.
9. The ABS sensor can be pulled out if you are afraid of damaging it. The bearing is equipped with a red seal. When replacing a bearing, buy the same one. The fact is that the wheel rotation sensor ring is combined with a bearing, and if there is a bearing without this red seal, the ABS will not work.
10. Using a puller, press out the hub together with the bearing and press in a new one.
11. We collect everything and go to do the wheel alignment.

The second problem that is often encountered in Ford Focus 2 is the failure of elements of the front suspension arm: the rear mounting silent block or the ball. Changing the ball joint is quite simple, but the silent block is not removable, and if it fails, then most often, due to the lack of special tools for repairs, the entire front suspension arm is replaced.

Source

Front suspension Ford Focus 2 2005-2008

Design Features

The front suspension is independent, MacPherson strut type, with telescopic shock absorbers, coil springs, lower wishbones and anti-roll bar. Rice. 7.1. Front suspension (left side): 1 – stabilizer bar.

Removing and installing a shock absorber strut You will need: keys “10”, “13”, “15”, chisel, hammer.1. Brake the car with the parking brake and install wheel chocks (“shoes”) under the rear wheels.2. Remove the air supply duct grille and the drainage flap (see “Removing and installing the air supply duct grille.

Repairing a shock absorber Repairing a telescopic strut shock absorber usually does not lead to the desired result, so if necessary, we recommend replacing the shock absorber. You will need: an 18-size wrench, a 6-size hex wrench, a flat-blade screwdriver, and a device for compressing the spring.1. Remove the shock absorber.

Replacing the upper support of the shock-absorber strut To replace the upper support of the shock-absorber strut, it is necessary to remove the strut from the vehicle (see “Removing and installing the shock-absorber strut”). For the process of replacing the support, see the subsection “Repairing the shock absorber strut”.

Replacing the ball joint If checking the support confirms the need to replace it (see “Checking the technical condition of the front suspension parts on a car”), replace it. You will need: a 21" wrench, a wrench for wheel bolts, a ball joint remover, a drill, a drill bit metal with a diameter of 12 mm.1. Lift and install.

Replacing the front suspension arm You will need: keys “15”, “18”, ball joint remover.1. Brake the vehicle with the parking brake and place wheel chocks (“chocks”) under the rear wheels. Raise the front of the car with a jack and place it on supports. Remove the wheel. Warning: Loosen up.

Replacing parts of the front suspension anti-roll bar You will need: keys “13”, “15”, hex key “6”, a screwdriver with a flat blade.1. Raise the front of the car. 2. Apply a penetrating lubricant such as WD-40 or equivalent to the nuts. 3. While holding the hinge pin from turning, unscrew the nut securing the hinge to the joint.

Removing and installing the steering knuckle 1. Remove the decorative cap and loosen the hub bolt.2. Raise and place the front of the car on supports. Remove the wheel. 3. Completely remove the hub bolt. 4. Disconnect the steering knuckle and the shock absorber strut (see “Removing and installing the shock absorber strut.

Replacing the Front Wheel Bearing You will need a bearing puller. Note We recommend replacing both front wheel hub bearings at the same time. 1. Remove the steering knuckle (see “Removing and installing the steering knuckle”).2. Install the puller and press the hub assembly with bearing out of the steering knuckle. Pre.

Removing and installing the front suspension cross member Note It is more convenient to perform the work on a lift. You will need: keys (or socket heads) “10”, “13”, “21”, TORX T25, a flat-blade screwdriver, a container for collecting power steering fluid, a puller for pressing out silent blocks.1. Install the steering wheel.

Source

Ford Focus 2 front suspension repair

Front suspension repair Owners of a Ford Focus 2 can complain about malfunctions of their car that occur in any vehicle, but no one has the right to say anything bad about the quality of both the front and rear suspensions. The developers of the Ford Focus 2 really did a great job in this category. However, over time, Focus car owners will one way or another be faced with the question of what to do with the car: take it to a car repair shop for repairs or try to fix everything themselves. And also the rear suspension.

front suspension ford focus 2

In any case, the restoration of such an important part as the front suspension of the Ford Focus 2, be it restyling or repair, is inevitable - everything, sooner or later, becomes unusable and everything has its own expiration date. For suspension, similar terminology is measured in kilometers traveled. Most of the components of the front suspension are capable of “carrying” you about 80-100 thousand km.

Replacing the front silent block of the suspension arm of a Ford Focus 2

To repress the small silent block of the front RP, it is more convenient to use a puller, but if you don’t have one at hand, you can try to repress the s/w using improvised means. To do this, you will need a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter and a bolt (stud) with a nut and washers.

To make the block move easier from its place, treat it with WD-40 and let it sit for some time (15-20 minutes).

We place a thick wide washer under the piece of pipe, turn the nut with a wrench, and begin to press out the steel.

We take a new sales block and press it into the lever.

The new s/b may be difficult to fit, so you need to be patient and take your time. The sales block is pressed in in the same way as it is pressed out. It is necessary to install the rubber seal so that the rubber flanges protrude from the iron.

To make the salenblock fit into place more easily, it would not be superfluous to treat the outside with silicone grease. The lubricant will not corrode the rubber, but it will be easier to press in the s/b.