Volumetric flow units. Conversion of volumetric flow units - table.

This article is about the unit of measurement. For the physicist, see Joule, James Prescott.

Joule

(English Joule; Russian designation:
J
; international:
J
) is a unit of measurement of work, energy and amount of heat in the International System of Units (SI). A joule is equal to the work done when moving the point of application of a force equal to one Newton over a distance of one meter in the direction of the force [1]. Thus, 1 J = 1 ·=1 ·²/². In electricity, a joule means the work done by an electric field in 1 second at a voltage of 1 volt to maintain a current of 1 ampere[2].

In accordance with the SI rules regarding derived units named after scientists, the name of the unit joule is written with a lowercase letter, and its designation is written with a capital letter. This spelling of the notation is also preserved in the notation of other derived units formed using the joule. For example, the unit of molar internal energy "joule per mole" is written as J/mol.

The joule was introduced into absolute practical electrical units as a unit of work and energy of electric current at the Second International Congress of Electricians, held in the year of James Joule's death (1889). The International Conference on Electrical Units and Standards (London, 1908) established "international" electrical units, including the "international joule". After the return to absolute electrical units on January 1, 1948, the following ratio was adopted: 1 international joule

= 1.00020
absolute joule
[3]. The joule was introduced into the International System of Units (SI) by the decision of the XI General Conference on Weights and Measures in 1960, simultaneously with the adoption of the SI system as a whole [4].

Multiples and submultiples

In accordance with the full official description of the SI contained in the current edition of the SI Brochure (French Brochure SI), published by the International Bureau of Weights and Measures (BIPM), decimal multiples and submultiples of the joule are formed using standard SI prefixes[6]. The “Regulations on units of quantities allowed for use in the Russian Federation”, adopted by the Government of the Russian Federation, provides for the use of the same prefixes[7].

Volumetric flow units. Conversion of volumetric flow units - table.

Conversion of volumetric flow units - table.

• Explanation: gallons of liquid are US=US or British=imperial=IMP=imperial=UK (more details)
• Useful table for assessments: Conversion of fluid velocity in a round pipe into volume flow depending on the internal diameter of the pipeline.

continuation:

• 1 m3/s= 22643 Barrels (oil)/hour= Barrel (oil)/h
• 1 m3/s= 6.29 Barrels (oil)/s= Barrel (oil)/s
• 1 m3/s= 3.6*109 cm3/hour
• 1 m3/s= 6*107 cm3/min
• 1 m3/s= 106 cm3/s
• 1 m3/s= 127133 Cubic feet/hour= Cubic feet/hour= cfh
• 1 m3/s= 2119 Cubic Cubic feet/minute= cfm
• 1 m3/s= 35.3 Cubic feet/second= cfs
• 1 m3/s= 3600 m3/hour
• 1 m3/s= 60 m3/min
• 1 m3/s= 4709 Cubic yards/hour= Cubic yards/hour
• 1 m3/s= 78.5 Cubic yards/minute= Cubic yards/minute
• 1 m3/s= 1.31 Cubic yards/s= Cubic yards/second
• 1 m3/s= 13198 Fluid gallons (Imperial)/min= Gallon water/minute (UK)= Gallon (FI)/minute (UK)
• 1 m3/s= 15850 Gallons of liquid (US)/min= Gallon water/minute (US)= Gallons (FI)/minute (US)
• 1 m3/s= 951019 Gallons of liquid (US)/hour= Gallons (FI)/hour (US)= Gallons water/hour (US)
• 1 m3/s= 264.2 Gallons of liquid (US)/c= Gallons (FI)/second (US)= Gallons water/second (US)
• 1 m3/s= 19005330 Gallons of liquid (Imperial)/day= Gallons water/day (UK)= Gallons (FI)/day (UK)
• 1 m3/s= 791889 Fluid gallons (Imperial)/hour= Gallon (FI)/hour (UK)= Gallon water/hour (UK)
• 1 m3/s= 13198 Fluid gallons (Imperial)/min= Gallon water/minute (UK)= Gallon (FI)/min (UK)
• 1 m3/s= 219.97 Fluid gallons (Imperial)/s= Gallon (FI)/second (UK)= Gallon water/sec (UK)
• 1 m3/s= 3600000 l/hour hour
• 1 m3/s= 60000 l/min
• 1 m3/s= 1000 l/s
• 1 m3/s= 131981 Pounds water/minute
• 1 m3/s= 86400 Tons of water (metric)= Ton of water (metric)/24hrs

Examples

• The average energy of thermal motion per one degree of freedom of molecules at a temperature of 1: 0.690·10−23 J.
• Photon energy of red visible light: 2.61·10−19 J.
• Fermi energy of metallic gold under normal conditions: 8.8·10−19 J[8].
• Atomic unit of energy (Hartree energy), E h = mec 2 α 2 {\displaystyle E_{h}=m_{\mathrm {e} }c^{2}\alpha ^{2}} : 4.360·10−18 J .
• Muzzle energy of a bullet when fired from an AKM: 2030 J[9].
• Energy required to heat 1 liter of water from 20 to 100 °C: 3.35 105 J.
• Energy released during the explosion of 1 ton of trinitrotoluene (TNT equivalent): 4.184 109 J.
• Energy released during the atomic bombing of Hiroshima: about 6·1013 J.
• Energy released during the collision of an asteroid with the Earth, which resulted in the formation of the Manicouagan crater: 1023 J.

09-g. Joule-Lenz law

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§ 09-g. Joule-Lenz law

In the 19th century, independently of each other, the Englishman D. Joule and the Russian E. Lenz studied the heating of conductors by electric current and experimentally discovered a pattern: the amount of heat released in a conductor with current is directly proportional to the square of the current strength, the resistance of the conductor and the time of passage of the current.

Through the efforts of other scientists, it was found that this statement is true for any conductors: solid, liquid, gaseous. Therefore, the pattern is called the Joule-Lenz law

:

Joule-Lenz law: the amount of heat released by a current of force I in any conductor with resistance R during observation time t.

On the right is a diagram of the installation, with which you can experimentally test the Joule-Lenz law. Dividing the voltage by the current, using the formula R=U/I

calculate resistance.
The thermometer measures the increase in water temperature. Using the formulas Q=I²Rt
and
Q=cmΔt°,
the amounts of heat are calculated, which should be equal to each other (taking into account errors).

For those who are more deeply interested in physics, we specifically note that the Joule–Lenz law can be obtained not only experimentally, but also derived theoretically, using formulas familiar to us.

We received two new formulas at once; Let's find out their physical meaning.

Left formula A=I&sup2Rt

is similar to the formula of the Joule-Lenz law, but on the left side it is the work of the current, and not the amount of heat. What gives us the right to consider these quantities equal? To do this, we recall the first law of thermodynamics (see § 6-h) and express the work from it.

ΔU = Q + A

therefore
A = ΔU – Q
Here ΔU

– this is a change in the internal energy of a conductor heated by current;
Q
is the amount of heat given off by the conductor (this is indicated by the “–” sign in front);
A
is the work done on the conductor. Let's find out what kind of work this is.

The conductor itself is motionless, but electrons move inside it, colliding with ions of the crystal lattice and transferring part of their kinetic energy to them. In order for the flow of electrons not to weaken, the electric field forces must constantly do work. Therefore A

– the work of the electric field to move the electrons of the conductor.

Let us now discuss the value ΔU

applied to a conductor in which current begins to flow.
The conductor will heat up and its internal energy will increase. As it heats up, the difference between the temperatures of the conductor and the environment will increase. According to Newton's law (see § 6-l), the heat transfer power will increase. Soon this will cause the temperature of the conductor to stop increasing. And from this moment on, the internal energy of the conductor will cease to change, that is, the value ΔU
will become equal to zero.

The first law of thermodynamics for this state will be written: A = –Q.

In words:
if the internal energy of the conductor does not change, then the work done by the current is completely converted into heat.
Using this conclusion, we write all three formulas for calculating the work of current in other forms:

For now we will consider these formulas to be equal. Later we will learn that the middle formula is always valid (which is why it is called the law), and the two extreme ones are true only under certain conditions (which we will formulate in high school).

Direct electric current Formulas Physics Theory Grade 8

Source

A source of information

Rotary hammer equipment

The usual kit for a rotary hammer is a set of drill bits for drilling and impact picks. The hammer drill can also be equipped with a jaw chuck, spare brushes and a suitcase.

In addition to the usual kit, the hammer drill can also use:

1. A dust removal system that can be included with a professional hammer drill or sold separately.
2. Crowns for drilling holes for sockets, switches and other technological holes.
3. Controllers for drilling depth and angle.

drill bit

• Specialized branded trolleys and tool cases.

A set of drills for “light” hammer drills when using a jaw chuck, etc.

The easiest way to make a hole in a concrete or brick base, to destroy a wall or to drill it is to use a tool specially designed for such work - a hammer drill. If a man often does home renovation work, then sooner or later he will have to think about purchasing it. To figure out how to choose a hammer drill that will become a reliable assistant for many years, you should carefully study all the features related to this tool.

Spindle speed

The rotary hammer shaft has a lower rotation speed than that of a drill. Each model has its own rotation speed. In different models it is 600-1500 revolutions per minute. The more powerful the tool, and the higher its productivity, the lower the rotation speed, since productive devices have a fairly large diameter of the equipment.

Read also: Which stationery stapler is better?

Types of cartridges

There are three options for mounting the drill:

1. SDS-Plus - installed on small models weighing less than 4 kg. The diameter that such equipment can produce is about 3 cm. Devices of this type are the most popular among buyers, since they are able to fully satisfy household needs.

2. SDS-Max - such cartridges are used to equip professional tools weighing up to 11 kg. The dimensions are quite large, and the diameter of the hole they can make is about 5.2 cm.

3. SDS-top - usually used in Bosch rotary hammers. The diameter of the holes they punch is 1.6-2.5 cm.

Operating modes

A hammer drill can not only punch holes, but also perform other functions, for example:

• Normal drilling. This mode is no different from the function performed by an electric drill. It can only be used for drilling materials with low density, for example, wood.
• Impact drilling. This mode is used to perform progressive circular movements of the drill. Almost all rotary hammers are equipped with the hammer drilling function. It is used for working with hard materials.
• Hit. In this mode, the tool performs not rotational, but percussive movements like a jackhammer.

When choosing a hammer drill, you should pay attention to the number of modes that the tool can support. Professionals recommend choosing devices that support at least two operating modes.

Built-in functions

The built-in functions of the rotary hammer include the following:

• A special limiter that allows you to determine the moment when the drill has reached the required mark.
• Speed ​​switch button - required to switch from drill to drill mode and back, since they operate at different speeds.
• Function of torsion of the shaft in the opposite direction - may be required when the drill gets stuck in a hard surface.
• Overheat protection function and soft start help protect the tool from damage.

Rotary hammer power type

The last selection criterion is the type of energy supply to operate the hammer drill motor. According to this criterion, rotary hammers are divided into network ones, which are connected to the mains with a cord, and battery-powered ones. It’s worth mentioning separately for cordless hammer drills, which have recently begun to have good parameters and are worthy of consideration. Cordless hammer drills have replaced gasoline ones. They are used mainly for local work, as well as construction procedures at sites without power supply.

cordless hammer drill

Choosing a device for work and home

For small-scale work at home or in the country, it is not recommended to choose overly heavy and mega-powerful hammer drills. The most suitable option for such cases may be a device belonging to the middle class, for example, from the manufacturer Makita.

However, if you need to purchase a professional tool, it is recommended to opt for high-performance rotary hammers, which are equipped with a fairly large number of attachments and functions. In this case, you can choose a model from Bosch.

When choosing both a professional tool and a device for home use, it is recommended to purchase devices equipped with a set of drills.

I want to buy myself a hammer drill for home repairs for myself and my loved ones (quite often I have to drill holes; I’m tired of suffering with a drill with a hammer mechanism). I don’t need a cool car, but at my level I want a decent, reliable tool. And now I am faced with this choice:

• SKIL – Rotary hammer 1755AK, 650 W, impact force 1.6 J, 3 modes. Weight 3 kg.
• SPARKY – Rotary hammer BPR220, 650 W, impact energy 2.3 J. Weight 2.5 kg.
• Bosch – Rotary hammer PBH 180 RE, 510 W, impact energy 1.2 J. Weight 2 kg.

The price is almost the same (well, Bosch is more expensive than others).

I'm inclined to favor Bosch - because... Bosch is Bosch, it's a thing, and I like the design the most. But the low impact energy is alarming. Is 1.2 J enough for strong concrete. I don't need holes larger than 15 mm d.

If you need a perf for anchor work, anyone can do it. In this case, there is no point in looking specifically at the impact energy.

In terms of price/quality, IMHO, BOSCH is not the optimal choice - it has somehow “blown away” recently. Consider the same skill as BOSCH (the company operates under his wing) - in principle, an honest household tool, especially with a three-mode “in reserve”. However, in terms of price/quality, Sparky will probably still be the leader in the top three.

I have a skill. I don’t remember which one exactly, the shock was 1.8 J, if I’m not mistaken. It is well worth the money - at a price of 3.5 rubles (complete with a cordless screwdriver), it has justified itself for a long time - it drilled, kneaded cement, and tapped concrete..

Sincerely, Alexander

Shtusha-Kutusha wrote: the low impact energy is alarming

On the contrary, this is an advantage for shallow holes of small diameter: a higher frequency of impacts with equal power means faster drilling; higher resource with equal mass (but this one is lighter); neater holes.

2Shtusha-Kutusha because Bosch is Bosch, this thing is green Bosch.

If you are from Moscow, then at OBI you can now buy a Makita HR2450 for 3999 rubles.

bulkin wrote: 2Shtusha-Kutusha because Bosch is Bosch, this thing is green Bosch. If you are from Moscow, then at OBI you can now buy a Makita HR2450 for 3999 rubles.

No, I'm from Irkutsk. I'm focusing on the price in the region of 3500 rubles. The most interesting thing is that I seem to have already punched most of the holes in my apartment - with a drill and a beater. mechanism. But I want to give myself a gift - so that I don’t have to worry about all sorts of “tough nuts” (stones) in the concrete the next time I drill. And so that the tool lasts a long time. In my opinion, green Bosch is also a thing, on its own level.

bulkin wrote: 2Shtusha-Kutusha is a green Bosch.

What's not to like about green Boche?

Alex21 wrote: If you need a perf for anchor work, anyone can do it. In this case, there is no point in looking specifically at the impact energy.

In terms of price/quality, IMHO, BOSCH is not the optimal choice - it has somehow “blown away” recently.

Read also: Large stapler how to change staples

Why? IMHO, the prices are normal (8 years ago a 2-24DSR cost $370, and today a 2-26DFR is only $200), German assembly and they know how to make perfs.

Consider the same skill as BOSCH (the company operates under his wing) - in principle, an honest household tool, especially with a three-mode “in reserve”. >

Agree, it’s difficult to compare him with Bosch. [QUOTE] However, in terms of price/quality, Sparky will probably still be the leader in the top three.

This Mr. will never be a leader. The price for 241 was raised to 4000 rubles - they completely moved. It's better to buy a Makita 2450.

Shtusha-Kutusha wrote: No, I’m from Irkutsk. I'm focusing on the price in the region of 3500 rubles. The most interesting thing is that I seem to have already punched most of the holes in my apartment - with a drill and a beater. mechanism. But I want to give myself a gift - so that I don’t have to worry about all sorts of “tough nuts” (stones) in the concrete the next time I drill. And so that the tool lasts a long time. In my opinion, green Bosch is also a thing, on its own level.

Green? Quite. Ours is also around 3500.

in my humble opinion

Why? IMHO, the prices are normal (8 years ago a 2-24DSR cost $370, and today a 2-26DFR is only $200), German assembly and they know how to make perfs.

For a household tool, Bosch is IMHO a little expensive. But the “blue” line, in principle, yes - quite acceptable in terms of price/quality.

Agree, it’s difficult to compare him (Skeel) with Bosh.

In this case - why not?

This Mr. (Sparky) will never be a leader. The price for 241 was raised to 4000 rubles - they completely moved. It's better to buy a Makita 2450.

Again, everything is relative. I agree - it’s better to buy a Makita, only among the three listed above Sparky is cheaper, and only he is a semi-pro.

2Shtusha-Kutusha If you don’t increase your top three to 4 and beyond, then Sparky is still preferable. As a good HOME instrument, this is better than the obviously low-power Bosch. IMHO, this green fart is not that far from a drill. If we were talking about a more expensive purchase, then yes, Boshi 2-24, 2-26 is the best option, but otherwise it would be a waste of money.

Shtusha-Kutusha wrote: But the low impact energy is alarming. Is 1.2 J enough for strong concrete.

The difference in the muzzle energy of rotary hammers when used at home will not be noticeable. Some manufacturers deliberately limit it to increase the durability of the tool if the model is positioned as a household one. Others focus their attention on industrial tools - then higher impact energy will give increased productivity - with the same serial drilling of holes, it makes a big difference whether you spend 10 seconds or 12 on each.

I would recommend paying attention to the presence of three modes - at home you need a more versatile tool, so the third mode - a clean blow (without rotation) is sometimes simply necessary.

Bhead wrote: 2Shtusha-Kutusha If you don’t increase your top three to 4 and beyond, then Sparky is still preferable. Sparky costs as much as a Makita 2450. There’s nothing to think about. [QUOTE] As a good HOME instrument, this is better than the obviously low-power Bosch. IMHO, this green fart is not that far from a drill. If we were talking about a more expensive purchase, then yes, Boshi 2-24, 2-26 is the best option, but otherwise it would be a waste of money.

The man lives in Novosibirsk. We don’t know their price level: maybe. Their blue Bosch costs $300. What then?

in my humble opinion

Kvost wrote: m.b. their blue Bosch costs $300

Why? The manufacturer is closer - transport costs are lower.

Sparky costs as much as a Makita 2450. There’s nothing to think about.

• It's not a matter of money, but the presence of this very Makita. In Moscow you can buy anything, from Stern to Hilti and back, but beyond. you need to know what is available. Irkutsk is not the largest city, Makita 2450 may not be there. Therefore, let's not go beyond what is proposed.

Thank you very much for your responses!

Serg wrote: I would recommend paying attention to the presence of three modes - at home you need a more universal instrument, so the third mode - a clean blow (without rotation) is sometimes simply necessary.

Why might it be so necessary? I recently made grooves in the wall to hide some wires from the sockets. Everything is done by hand - bolt, hammer and off you go. I laid three grooves - a total of probably 2 meters or even more, not so little. But it’s okay, I did it, it’s certainly a labor-intensive task and tedious, but within reason in terms of time (also considering that the bolt was quite stupid). But with a hammer drill I don’t even know whether I could do it or not - after all, a machine can’t replace your hand; with your hands, precise blows, well-aimed along the groove - where there is a pebble - you knock it down with precision. Or maybe I'm just talking like a teapot. Another thing is to drill holes, where if the drill rests on a stone, then your hands just drop along with the drill - so that this does not happen, and you need a hammer drill - you want to pamper yourself. But which one to choose, damn it, so that for the next 20 years, and no problems. The recommendations turned out to be very ambiguous. I was especially alarmed that the Bosch that I had my eye on was supposedly not very different from the drill. Is it really so? I don't need a second drill. You need a tool that doesn't get in the way of pebbles.

The principle of hammer drill

The vast majority of modern hammer drills that are commercially available use an impact mechanism, and since hammer drills are powered by electricity, it would be more correct to call the impact electrodynamic.

principle of the percussion mechanism of a rotary hammer

hammer drill impact mechanism diagram

If you choose a professional hammer drill, then it is worth spending a little time getting acquainted with the representatives of the second exotic group, which use the principle of electromagnetic impact formation. Such hammer drills are intended for heavy work and are not cheap (from 1000.00 USD). If you want to show that you are different from everyone else, an electromagnetic hammer drill is what you need.